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Grafting tomato help

Posted by thebutcher 6b (Philadelphia are (My Page) on
Sun, Jul 6, 14 at 15:03

Hey all,

I decided to experiment with grafting this year since I have left over seedlings to see how it works so I can do more for next year. I was wondering if anyone knows of any alternative common house hold items to use... For example a straw... to brace "the the two plants after you graft it"? I also read to wrap the grafted part in wet newspaper?

My plan is grafting a Yellow kelloggs and Black Krim with an F-1 Ramapo from Rutgers being the bottom.

Also I read that they need humidity, with that said, should I put it in a plastic dome, or can I leave it in shade (and out of wind) outside since I live in a high humidity enviornment?

Also if I decide to let it heal inside, should I put under my T-5 Grow lights in a plastic dome?

Thanks all in advanced,

Mr Beno

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Grafting tomato help

Hi Mr. Beno: (See my posts on "Grafted Tomatoes" for more info)

There are specific seeds for rootstocks that only work such as Maxifort. I don't believe Rutgers will be very good as a rootstock. Yes, you need high humidity, moisture and warmth and a plastic dome should be OK. Don't leave them outside after grafting and wait until the plants are larger and the grafting has worked to plant and DON'T plant the rootstock below ground level or you will loose the effect of the rootstock. Grow lights are fine but you do need some dark time also.

RE: Grafting tomato help

Thanks for the help, I did it yesterday and so far so good as I looked at it today. As far as the rootstock, it is a Ramapo F-1 by Rutgers University. It is a hybrid with common disease resistance traits of other hybrids.

I was also thinking about taking some suckers off an early girl plant and use that as the rootstock. Either way, I am just experimenting for next year. It seems fun to see how they turn out if I manage to have success. For the clip, I used a plastic straw and a "spring loaded black paper clip". I will keep you posted if this works out.

Thanks again for the help.

RE: Grafting tomato help

Tommyk, hmm, I think one can use just about any resistant rootstock, depending what is main problems one is trying to work against and what kind of rootstock and scion match is there, i.e. whether small cherry and large beef can be matched etc...

Here is a link that might be useful: tomato resistance

RE: Grafting tomato help

There was another recent discussion here with all the details on providing proper humidity levels etc. and if I recall correctly it included several links to other sources of info. The search will pull up all the previous discussions about grafted/grafting for you and it should be one of the ones near the top.


RE: Grafting tomato help


From all my research there are only a few specific rootstocks one should use for optimum production: Rootstocks widely used for grafting tomato are hybrids between tomato (Solanum lycopersicum), called intraspecific hybrid, or hybrids between tomato (S. lycopersicum) and a wild relative to tomato (such as S. habrochaites) called interspecific hybrid. Interspecific hybrid rootstocks are generally more vigorous but sometimes lack uniformity of germination/seedling emergence.

When you choose rootstocks for tomato, in addition to the rootstock’s resistances, you need to select the rootstock based on the expected level of vigor, relative to your scion. If scion is a less vigorous variety and if a very vigorous rootstock is used, adding vigor to the scion is expected. However, if rootstock is too vigorous relative to scion, you may experience an overly vegetative growth of your tomato plants, potentially reducing yields. Some rootstocks can achieve higher yields even without disease present in the root zone (such as in hydroponics).
The top rootstocks for grafting are:

I suppose you can use any disease resistant hybrid and it may work but you will not get the production and long-season production in addition to superb disease-resistance.

As of July 12 my grafted tomato plants using Maxifort and growing better than any of my standard tomato plants and with lots more tomatoes. My regular tomatoes are doing very well but they are no where near the size and with less tomatoes than the grafted ones. I have been more than impressed with the grafted tomato plants but still will hold final judgement until maturity, production and length of production ends.

RE: Grafting tomato help


Sorry didn't fully understand the F-1 graft from Rutgers. I thought you were talking about a Rutgers Tomato rather than "from" Rutgers. That should be OK.

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