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| I am a beginning gardener, totally lost in trying to figure this stuff out. Anyways, I have three tomato plants growing in an 8x8 foot raised bed. We normally have a very dry climate, but have experienced some wetter weather lately. After this spell, two of my plants grew to be huge, while my third has begun to look like death.
First, the leaves started to curl, which I don't think is that unusual, but then it started to form white bumps. I looked this up, and I guess they are the precursors to roots. Then, this is when it started to get bad. The leaves began to turn yellow and green and the plant began to wilt. I thought it might be getting over watered, so I cut back and quit watering so late in the day. Well, moving on... I've read some forums on this site, and I've done some researching on the web. So far, the closest match of the symptoms I can find are pith nicrosis or some sort of nematode problem. I guess my question is... what can I do to save the plant? Or... Should I rip it up, and does it pose a risk to the rest of my garden? I wanted to get this up asap, to get some of y'alls expert feedback. However, I will get the variety of tomato and upload some pics as soon as possible. I've found some similar posts, but nothing that really describes my situation. Please excuse my ignorance, and I appreciate any help you can offer. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by dickiefickle 5B Dousman,Wi. (My Page) on Mon, Jul 16, 12 at 0:06
| Really need some pics |
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- Posted by foolishpleasure 6 (My Page) on Mon, Jul 16, 12 at 2:45
| I Have the same problem. My tomato leaves started to wilt. I thought some infection especially I have lots of shade trees close to my garden and shade trees carry infection. I sprayed with fungicide I used three kinds. The tomato trees recovered except two which almost dying and they have good size green tomatoes. I researched all over nobody knows the exast cause. there are 10s of fungi infections tht why I used three tpyes of spray. I have infection in my cucumber too and no s[ray can help. My green peppers and eggplants and sweet potatos were hit by blight but after spray they recovered. |
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- Posted by ichbinryan none (My Page) on Mon, Jul 16, 12 at 16:55
| Gotcha dickiefickle. Borrowing a camera this afternoon. I'll take some pictures and post them tonight. |
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- Posted by ichbinryan none (My Page) on Mon, Jul 16, 12 at 20:23
| Alright, here are some images
I had another pic of some of the leaves that are faring more poorly, but it seems to refuse to upload. |
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- Posted by ichbinryan none (My Page) on Thu, Jul 19, 12 at 20:47
| So far, I have been told by people smarter than me that it is either a nutrient deficiency or herbicide damage. I don't think it was sprayed, but I could be wrong. I've been trying to get a hold of my county extension office to talk to them, but no go. It seems to be spreading around to the rest of my tomato plants, so I'd really like to figure out whats going on before I lose any more. I don't know if it is any sort of pathogen because I think that my chile plants would have been affected long before my tomatoes started to go. Any other ideas or tips? |
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| I only see one bad plant. Would definitely get rid of it. The rest look ok, besides some dry looking ground. I would also give that dirt a good soaking. Tomatoes need lots of water. I had those warts really bad last year on one of my plants, but it didn't seem to affect anything. The plant seemed to grow and fruit normally. |
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| My yellow pear tomato did the same exact thing. Meanwhile the 2 Celebrity plants next to it are giving me some of the biggest best tomatoes I have ever grown. This despite drought and severe heat here for the last month. I can't figure it out. I agree with edweather, yank it up and get rid of it. |
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| First of all, your other plants look ok, although they look a little under-supported. Your cages might have to go higher to get the kind of production you are looking for. Second, what are you fertilizing with, and on what kind of a schedule? And how often are you watering? I have mulched my tomatoes for the first time this year with hay, and I have never had better tomatoes. I put in two jobes fertilizer spikes per plant this spring, and I have been watering only 1 inch per week. With the mulch I am not losing as much moisture to surface evaporation, and I think that the water is staying more even throughout the soil profile. The whole key to tomatoes is consistency. A lot of the things about gardening we can't control, but some of the things we can. If it has been raining a lot and has just let up, water a few days after it dries to keep the soil levels more even, and ween the tomatoes off of heavy rainfall, unless more is expected. Try and add mulch to keep the soil temperature levels more even, bare dirt spikes in temperature at the heat of the day, and bakes like you wouldn't believe, taking precious moisture with it. With those two factors under my control, and one of the worst droughts in 50 years here in Illinois, I have had one of my best tomato crops. Tonight alone I brought in two five gallon buckets of tomatoes (from 15 plants), and this was my 3rd picking. I have really been impressed with the performance of the fertilizer spikes. |
Here is a link that might be useful: My Garden
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