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Soil Analysis

Posted by billyberue SW OH (My Page) on
Tue, Aug 16, 11 at 10:20

Can anyone reccommend a good place for a soil test that is not too technical? I had one done a few years back from Michigan State but didn't understand exactly how to ammend my soil according to their diagnosis. Also, when is the best time of year to have your soil tested? I live in SW Ohio. Lastly, a stupid question, but is there any way testers can predict if you will have blight problems with a soil test? I've done EVERYTHING suggested on this forum and I have different blights on over half of my 62 mostly heirloom plants now for the 3rd year in a row.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Soil Analysis

I would use your local OSU extension office for soil testing.

Are you spraying with daconil to prevent blight?

Here is a link that might be useful: OSU Extension Offices

RE: Soil Analysis

I am spraying regularly, since the day before they were planted, but I'm using Ortho Garden Disease Control instead. I couldn't find any Daconil concentrate around here and I had read on this forum before that they were one in the same. Maybe that is my one mistake?

RE: Soil Analysis

yes, both Daconil and the Ortho product have Chlorothalonil. How much are you using? If you are spraying with 1TB to a gallon, it should be the same as the Daconil.

As for testing the soil for blight, I think the fact that you have had it 3 years in a row makes the test moot - it is in your soil. The recommendation is to rotate crops, but for us home gardeners, that is not always possible.

If you click on the link below, OSU recommends rotating crops so that you don't plant tomatoes in a spot that has had blight for 3 to 4 years.

Here is a link that might be useful: OSU Article on Early Blight

RE: Soil Analysis

I have different blights

There are three tomato diseases which are actually named "blight" (Early, Late, and Southern), but the vast majority of tomato diseases have other names.

Some overwinter in soil. Some don't.

It really helps to be specific.

For instance, yumtomatoes' link is about a single disease, Early Blight. Late Blight, however, for all intents and purposes doesn't overwinter (unless you have unharvested potatoes that produce volunteers the following year or have infected tomato plants or other relatives which survive the winter). I don't know if Southern Blight overwinters in soil or not.

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