This year I pruned, but next year I plan not to prune at all.

Before taking that decision I would like to see some tomato "jungles" - because I think not pruning means that the tomatoes look somehow like a little "jungle."

I'm interested to see how high the vines grow, crop yield, size of the tomatoes- so I can prepare solid supports - trellises - for my next year' tomatoes.

So please, post pictures of those sprawled tomatoes.

This picture was taken (EDIT) 11 days (not a month) ago, I had done some pruning for air circulation but not much. I've done more since then and will update the picture later. They are supported using the FL Weave with T-posts between every 3-4 plants. Some "suckers" developed lower, didn't remove them in time and I wasn't able to weave them up so they are sprawling down the sides of the mounded bed but I have been trying to pick fruit from them as I see a blush, and when I've got the fruit off I plan on using a knife to trim those branches off now that the weather is getting cooler (good thing it hasn't been wet lately).

I've got 1 plant that looks like a large yellow cherry (not Galinas since it's RL) or "cocktail" tomato where I planted Golden Queen, and I do have Latah at the end of the east row but most in here are large-fruited varieties (BW, CP, Mark Twain, Orange Minsk) or medium (Rutgers, Grandma Mary's, Cosmonaut Volkov). The medium-fruited cultivars were planted later, they were leftovers (I'd already planted 6 of each in beds to the south), so haven't gotten ripe fruit off them yet.

But the large ones planted earlier have yielded so far a 14oz BW (and picked more about the same size blushing yesterday), a 2 lb Orange Minsk, a 1 lb green fruit from same cluster, and a 1.8 lb Mark Twain that was blushing, I didn't want to pick it since I was afraid I'd rip off the green fruit(s) in the same cluster but it was pinched against the stem of the plant - now has a soft spot so may rot before it ripens inside. I've also gotten some of those yellow round tomatoes - a little bigger than my Galinas that I've been picking, same color, but RL so I'm not sure if they are "stunted" GQ, if so they are about half the size they are supposed to be, but they do look like the pix on Tania's site.

The plants: On right = Ananas Noire ;; On left = Matina

> I don't know how many people don't prune at ALL.

Says Dave / digdirt in How many stems on your indeterminate tomatoes ?:

> So on my indeterminate plants? As many stems as they will grow.

lindalana can we see YOUR tomato “jungle” (recent picture please. tx.)

When you said people don't prune at all, that meant to me, "don't take anything off except the ripe fruit".

linda - that's a Quonset style tunnel, we got salvage so some hoops are a bit out of round but it's 14ft wide so 7ft tall, the side beds (peppers shown, a bit of everything on the other side of the tomatoes) are framed in cypress but the center bed (4ft wide 2 rows of tomatoes 2 ft apart) is just mounded, about 1.5-2ft high so those plants are only about 5ft tall (some are over the hoops now). The sides are eroding so I'll have to buy more lumber and frame them out - will be a lot of digging. The side beds were constructed from 12ft lengths, 22" ends between each, screwed to 2ft stakes in each corner then filled (after loosening packed dirt with a pickax) with composted manure. The center bed is just composted manure, we didn't even loosen the dirt after it was leveled with a bulldozer.

But I need to rethink my support system too - next year I think I will grow half as many plants in that bed and run a single strand of baling twine on each side, let them bush out in the 2ft in between. This year I tried pruning in the beginning to keep the tomatoes in 2 rows with some space (like 1ft) between rows but it quickly got out of hand. I ran twine on each side of each row so the plants were sandwiched in a space the thickness of a T post (3"?) but that was crushing them too much, and I couldn't reach in the middle after a while, so I just ran twine on the outside of each row after they got taller, and let them flop down in the middle.

This picture is from the beginning of July so you can see how it started out. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures today - my hands were full of buckets of tomatoes (only 1 small bucket of BWs and a few CPs from here, another larger bucket of Bloody Butchers and Rose de Bernes, G. Mary's from other bed and 2 small buckets of cherry tomatoes I sent DD down for).

Jennie

But there is a cure for pictures showing side way or upside down : CLICK on them.

You need to hold the ipad so the button is on the right, I think, or on the bottom, when you take the photo or it will be upside down here.

Thank you Conchita for that information. I did not know that.

Best advice to myself is to not post pictures from my ipad.

The frame is 12 ft. wide and 10 ft. high.

- 2’’ x 4’’ lumber wood; painted (primer + exterior paint.)

- wire fence (4 ft. wide)

- 2 ft. deep 2'' x 4'' poles

The frame faces South, so I have 8+ hrs. of sun.

I knew that 10 ft. high will NOT be high enough…

Sturdy, long-lasting, big space... happy with the frame.

Thank you Copper fungicide for the healthy foliage. The copper was THE ONLY. fungicide that I used. Weekly, consistently, from day one.

Initially this frame was designed for the Brandywine tomatoes. But some other tomatoes, self-invited so now it’s a combo of Brandywines - Pink, Red and Sudduth’s - and Brandy Boy, Better Boy, Mortgage Lifter, Park’s Whopper, Giant Belgium, Rose, and a few others.

Linda - those 2 rows are 2 ft apart - I didn't think that was too close, but these plants will take a mile if you give them a foot! I wouldn't be surprised to have them fill the 4ft wide bed if I plant a single row down the middle next year. I've grown pepper plants that were 3ft wide and 3ft tall before. The peppers are planted about 16" apart on the diagonal, and most of them are 18-24 inches tall already though I planted them late, like mid-June.

I did ask that farmer up the road how he got tomatoes so early and he said he bought the plants, planted them in sand and manure. Well, these were planted in (composted) manure and I don't think there were any drainage problems, got lots of foliage and (mostly) big tomatoes but not early. So he's not giving up his secrets - maybe he bought bigger plants and set them out earlier than I set out my 10-week old seedlings?

Another

Another

More
Along shot showing several bed. On the left front, is a planter, growing peppers in it.

and the real thing.LOL

> And what does your wife think about the jungle blocking the window ;-)?

ajsmama, is this the ONLY comment you thought is, errr… interesting / useful ? I hoped for suggestions for improvement. And of course, if you like it or not.

That room is our guest room. Once or twice a year, when relatives visit us, they sleep in that room. When they visit us, we are having fun the whole day, so they don’t have time to “admire” our neibor’s house. They only use that room for... sleeping.

The result: one of my brandywines reached 5' tall and has spread across the garden about 10'. Almost like a vine! I have tomatoes growing on the ground.

Anyway, I have tried growing on similar trellis (CRW between T posts) and trying the vines to the wire, but never seem to keep up with it and the vines bend over, sometimes break at the ties if I don't do a higher one before they get fruit. FL Weave is working a little better, and I mentioned next year I may just try planting them between 2 rows of T posts and running twine down either side (1 along each row) rather than wrapping around each post and making 180 degree turn.

But if you really want to minimize pruning I think cages are probably the way to go - a bit expensive (and hard to store) for 200 plants, but not bad for a couple of dozen.

I don't know if anyone else has any insights into what support systems have/have not worked for their indeterminates, but I know there have been multiple threads on the subject over the years.

Love the seed-tray racks! I had considered the Florida weave but wanted something less laborious.. I came across a DIY on constructing cages from galvanized cattle panels and finally just went with'em.. They're weren't exactly cheap; it was around $270 for enough panels to make 24 baskets.. But the way I see it is that they'll last a lifetime so it's actually pretty reasonable.

I'm not going to lie, they were some work to construct (called for 2 people but I'm thick-headed). When all that's said and done I must say that I absolutely LOVE them! They're four feet tall, very rigid and didn't even think of tipping while supporting an 8' yellow brandywine. They keep the plants contained wonderfully and I just tie up to a stake topped with a PVC "trellis" of sorts; to keep them from sprawling.

How did you anchored them to the ground ?

They are 4 ft. tall. Did you think 5-6 ft. tall ?

I see you used landscaping fabric mulch for most of the rows. Why not for the one “Earlier in the season.” ?

Seysonn wrote:

> I am also going to grow more DETs/Bush and less INDETs…

I will not plant bush tomatoes again. This year, mine - 8 varieties - were either too short, 1 ft. high - I hate leaves touching the soil, even with mulch - or too high - 3-4 ft. needing support. In my understanding a bush tomato is a… BUSH tomato, so no need of support. Mine also produced little.

Regarding the DETERMINATES, mine are 8 to 10' tall now, so obviously they need good support. I will plant again next year Celebrity.

Next year if I don't start VERY early, I will plant less late-season tomatoes, and more mid-season tomatoes.

To be honest they barely need anchoring.. The way they're designed 5" vertical portions of wire are left on the bottom that essentially stick in to the ground .. Even still, I simply take an 8' stake, drive it down around 2' and then tie wrap it to the cage .. Never to be moved again lol, until the apple cider and pumpkin pie come around of course.

Unfortunately the panels are only 4' wide (bent length wise) so that's the reason for their height. I too was weary at 4' and thought it'd be an issue but with tying up to a stake they are just fine. If you really wanted you cut cut 2' sections and extend them up to 6' or more but it really isn't necessary ..

The row without fabric is my experimental no till bed .. It was so much easier to work with as the mulch keeps run-off to a minimum.. Going all no till in the hoop house..

Here's a pic of an 8' yellow brandywine (half dead from septoria) just to show you the capability of these cages to stay upright.. Don't be deceived as the ground is slightly un-level and it hasn't moved one bit..

Linda,
Dwarfs huh? Which strains have you liked so far?

Last year… please don’t remind me. Luckily I had 2 backups of transplants, so I could have a decent yield. Wilting and wilting and... wilting last year. No mulch or copper last year. Some Serenade when it was too late. Didn't know about Copper. Now I know, and I love it ! It simply did the job for me.

Tomato Alley w some pine needle mulch under the plants. After I weed the alley a few times, it stays clear because I walk on it so much.

Just before yesterday’s pickings…

There is a jungle sometimes. If plants get too tall, they just drape over. This is “green doctors” cherry.

Susan

> Here's a pic of an 8' yellow brandywine (half dead from septoria)...

Michael, did you fungicide ? If yes, from day one ? What did you use ? If no, why not ?

> Sorry, I forgot the original post was that you wanted to prepare a trellis or not pruning. Which is looks like you abandoned this year from the looks of your jungle ;-)?

ajsmama, this thread' title is: Show off your tomato "jungle" !

I was hoping to see pictures of your “jungles” because I wanted to know how my “jungle” would look like IF I WILL NOT PRUNE NEXT YEAR.

ajsmama wrote:

> When you said people don't prune at all, that meant to me, "don't take anything off except the ripe fruit".

ajsmama I wrote in a few messages in the past that I DO prune:

* leaves that are too close to the ground (at least 1 ft. distance)
* leaves that show yellow / brown spots.
* leaves to improve air circulation.

I didn’t think that I should repeat these exceptions over and over again. I thought it was pretty OBVIOUS that when I said AT ALL, I meant nothing EXCEPT the three cases above.

ajsmama, I am a newbie, but not THAT newbie, not to know this basic rule, learned by any tomatoes grower in the first few months of gardening.

And please forgive for me being confused - you did ask to see the jungles of people who don't prune "at all", first I thought just to see what it looked like, then I read again you were looking for means of support (and you specifically asked for comments on your trellis). I hope the info I gave on what I've tried (I still haven't hit on the perfect method) is of use to you, and I meant no offense though I was ribbing you a little in a few posts (like about the window). Just friendly joshing - and why I put in a picture of my indoor "jungle" that DH hates.

Jennie

Not as much as I expected; all the tomatoes on that frame are late-season; I would say i get like 5-6 pretty big tomatoes - 1+ lb. oz. some will be 1.5 lbs. or more.

If the weather permits, in 2 weeks the yield will be double. I have many medium size tomatoes waiting to grow and ripe.

It's true, I was a little late, but the weather this summer was pretty... STRANGE.

Also, the early varieties were (very) late, and the late varieties, were somehow earlier.

Susan, your trellis is super-awesome. I'll make a detailed comment later.

> 5 or 6 tomatoes from one plant all season?

No, no, no...I wrote: I get like 5-6 pretty big tomatoes - 1+ lb. oz. some will be 1.5 lbs. or more. Those are the BIG tomatoes. Each plant ALSO has 5-6 medium size - 8-10 oz - AND 5-6 small tomatoes - 2-3 oz. So, there are about 15 tomatoes per plant.

If nice weather, the big one will ripe on the vine, the medium size tomatoes will become large, but the small ones probably will not be over 6-8 oz.

It's been a few days since I've been able to get on here, between work and play I've been pretty crazy .. The hairy vetch seedlings are on their way up and looking so cute and happy haha...

Dan- yes I used a copper based fungicide (very sparingly) but I caught it pretty late.. For the first time since my honeymoon we went in two vacations this year back to back and I came home to a disaster.. I pruned the effected foliage and sprayed to keep it at bay but the early part of the summer here was verrrry wet!! I finally grew tired of wasting my time and money (while damaging my soil food web all the while with the copper).. I let it take it's course and am just mindful to remove any dead foliage before or after it hits the ground..

15 or so tomatoes per plant huh? That's abnormally low my friend.. The plants are green and lucious don't get me wrong, but that leads me to believe that you over did it with the N (nitrogen) perhaps.. The results of over fertilization are beautiful, tall plants with thick stems but a lack of fruit.. Leaf color can ASSIST you with your N requirements (strain dependent of course)... What I mean is, an over-fertilized plant will have very dark green leaves, while an under fertilized plant will have a more chlorotic (yellow) appearance.. Just keep in mind that an iron deficiency will display the same symptoms..

For instance I have one plant outside with 75 tomatoes on it at the moment (stricken with septoria none-the-less). What have you fertilized with so far this season?

> 15 or so tomatoes per plant huh? That's abnormally low my friend.

Well, I was a little late, the late-season varieties are… late - and they don’t produce a lot; I bet you would NEVER get 75 tomatoes from a Brandywine… The weather was weird… Colder than usual in both July and August.

Next year will be MUCH better. I'll take care of that.

While the tomatoes are not many, they are big. I have other tomatoes, smaller, medium size, but many - maybe 25 per plant. Well, "many" according to MY standards.

> What have you fertilized with so far this season?

One time Fish and Seaweed Fertilizer [ 2-3-1 ] (Neptune's Harvest) and one time Cal Mag Plus Plant Nutrient Supplement [ 2-0-0 ] (Botanicare). Both foliar fertilization. NOTHING ELSE.

Michael, what have YOU fertilized with so far this season?

Michael wrote:

> For instance I have one plant outside with 75 tomatoes on it at the moment.

Can I see a picture of the plant ? With those 75 tomatoes…

ALL your plants have 75 tomatoes ?

How many plants do you have ?

What varieties ?

Everybody else here have tomato plants with 75 tomatoes on them ?

Yea I'd gladly take a pic of the plant, I believe it's a Bonny best (started from seed, darn sharpie washed off). I didn't actually count every tomato but as I was walking by today i very quickly counted 30 on only one side of the plant if I had to take a guess I'd say 50-75..

Yea you definitely didn't overfeed, sounds like just the opposite in fact! From the vigorous growth it's obvious that you have a good amount of N in the soil. You'd definitely benefit from a complete fert such as garden-tone, tomato-tone etc..

The total sq/ft of the amended soil was 322..
I prepped my soil in early April with:

2 bags green sand 
3 cu. ft Castings
Gardentone (slightly less than recommended spreading rates)
Kelp meal
Azonite
One bag manure
Alfalfa meal 

All plants were inoculated with Mycorrhizal fungus at initial germination and when potting up.. The garden is watered with a 92ish% chlorine free drip system..

I began feeding the plants at around 3 weeks of age with chlorine free RO..
I fed weekly with fish emulsion and liquid seaweed (high in natural growth stimulants). Half strength for the first few feedings to see how they'd handle it... No problems.. I also root drenched weekly stump tea; a prepared bacterial and fungal blend, containing molasses (microbe food) as well..
As time progressed and flowering began I backed off the emulsion, side dressed once more with garden tone, and continued stump tea as well as molasses (1 tbs/gal) and liquid seaweed.. I stopped feeding in early august and continued with the occasional stump tea..

They grew with vigor this year but the septoria really knocked them down towards mid-August. This is only the second year since I made the switch from synthetics so I expect improvements yearly as the soil "grows."

I have 200 plants in the ground, I'm not even picking off the 19 in the house garden (planted June 30 - well, a few Latah and some cherries), or the determinates in the field (about 12) and very few out of the tunnel (10). Ones I planted later in the tunnel aren't ripening yet (except some Latah), Orange Minsk is having a problem with BER, and most of the Golden Queens seem small. So I'm really only picking off 6 BWs, 6 CPs (just starting to come in), 6 Rose de Bernes (with septoria), 6 Cosmonauts (with septoria, but the ones I planted later in the tunnel are starting now), Mark Twain is just starting (I think I've picked 4 tomatoes but they were all 1lbers or more), 6 Bloody Butcher (septoria) and 6 Moravsky Div (same thing). Black Krims are pretty much over. But this week I filled a 5 gal bucket with Grandma Mary's, an 18 gal tote half full with blushing CPs and a few Marks, BWs, another 3 gal bucket with CPs today, 3 gal BW today, 2 gal Moravsky today. Gave about 30 lbs of overripe tomatoes to community kitchen today (some I found on vines - DH and DS did pick Rose de Bernes Sunday or at least came up with buckets full but I found vines breaking and tomatoes rotting today they were so loaded) and about 20 lbs yesterday. Plus made jam with 3lbs last night, froze 16lbs on Friday, made jam with 3 lbs of Super Sweet 100's the other day and tomato butter with 3 lbs of what I think are G. Queens. Oh, and sold some too - including 2lbs of Green Doctor cherries to 1 person.

I'll take a picture of all the tomatoes in my garage tomorrow - I left my phone in the truck after market. Oh, and I still have lots more BWs to pick tomorrow (determinates too) before it rains. I'm just running out of things to put them in.

Can we see A LOT of pictures to backup your statements ?

Also, ajsmama wrote she had 15 BW tomatoes, much lower that you - 30 tomatoes.

I had about 10-15 tomatoes too.

I’m wondering, maybe is not OUR yield is “abnormally low” maybe - for some reason(s) - YOUR yield is “abnormally”…HIGH ?.

I mean come on people, anybody else have 75 tomatoes from one plant ?

I will post the pic but not to prove anything to you (when I get home).. Simply to show that I dont BS and for the others that will read this in the future.. As far as I'm concerned with you, I will no longer offer my assistance or opinions as you cannot accept constructive criticism or even help for that matter...

Michael, I simply wanted to see some pictures. NOT because I don’t believe you. I wanted to see how tall / wide the plant is. How many stems, if you pruned it or not, what trellis you used, and so on. I simply wanted TO LEARN.

I wanted to see that plant with 75 tomatoes on it, and a Yellow Brandywine with 30 tomatoes. And of course I would like to see that 2.4 lbs. tomato.

Today I counted 1 BW plant - 13 tomatoes, I picked 7 of them and expect the other 6 to ripen but no more to set. And I have picked already off that plant (first in row) so yes I will get more than 15, probably less than 30 (let's say 23?) off that one plant this season - transplanted June 4 and it's been cool (and until recently, wet) so in a good year I might have gotten more. But except for some catfaced fruit to begin with, they've been beautiful. CP is probably just as productive. But another BW only had 2 on it - I've picked off that one already, don't know how many. Most of the BWs, MTs, CPs seemed to have about 7 fruit on them *right now* that will make it to harvest (maybe a few more on MT) - but I've been picking BW and CPs.

I filled one of those white bins with ripe/blushing fruit off 9 determinates (Kootenai and Sandpoint) today, I had picked a few earlier so that's not total haul but I think they're done so I will pull them soon.

Mark is loaded but very catfaced. I picked some Orange Minsk today, loaded lots of good-sized green ones but most under 12oz I'd say. Lots of problems with BER and catfacing on those so I've been throwing away some good-sized ones. One today was so catfaced I split it trying to pick through the FL weave.

And yes, I need to remove diseased leaves - the tomatoes in the tunnel are finally succumbing, though I hope to keep them going about a month or so longer (at least the ones planted a little later in June that haven't ripened yet, the BWs planted June 4 are almost done).

Indoors I use a reverse osmosis system.. You can purchase one @ http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-1-PURE-100-Reverse-Osmosis--Deionizer-Water-Filtration-System
I would grab a 50 gallon drum and a float valve and viola - 50 gals always at your disposal.. It also wouldn't hurt to install a draw-off valve towards the bottom of the barrel that you could simply open to fill your buckets, brewer etc..
Outdoors I use the Gard N Gro inline filter with the pre-filter assembly as well.. http://www.amazon.com/Rainshowr-GG-2010-Garden-FilterSystem/dp/B000N4K4H2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410456245&sr=81&keywords=gard+n+gro (copy and paste into address bar).

I know you were also reading "Teaming with Microbes," did you follow his recommendations for a tea recipe? He lists a few microbe foods on there (molasses, cane sugar and a few others). Its somewhere near page 180 if my memory serves me correctly..

Go to compostjunkie.com and you'll find some decent recipes for bacterial, fungal and balanced recipes.. As we know it all starts with our compost in terms of the microbial life that is encouraged based on the initial ingredients.. A bacterial dominant recipe is as follows:

5 gal de-chlorinated H20
1.5 lbs bacterially dominated compost
2 oz cane sugar
1 oz liquid kelp

It also wouldn't hurt to throw some azomite
(http://www.gardenteacompany.com/azomite-minerals-and-trace-elements/) in the mix as to give them something to attach to..

You can find numerous other recipes by just typing compost tea recipe into the search engine of your choice lol.. =)

Apology accepted.. I will start the pics with this: the plant is in absolutely pathetic condition as I haven't paid it an ounce of attention for the past few weeks (training, feeding etc) .. I'm certainly not proud of it, but simply stated the number of fruit.. My wife is very sick (2 years now) and we've been going to doctors in NYC and all across the Northeast (RI, CT, NY) for that matter so my gardening time is at an all time low at this point in my life.. As I previously stated I let the septoria take it's course and you will see that.. I took a count today and got up to 83 and then just started to get confused lol.. It's a little trickier to precisely count fruit on a plant than I expected (without a means of marking ones already accounted for).

I started off growing on CRW a few years ago (then tried FL weave in interior row, last year put up CRW on that partial row b/c FL weave was a bust 2012) but as I said above, it's hard to keep up with tying them (and I'm growing Green Dr this year, it sprawls as much as the other cherries - and Grandma Mary's). Works great for beans though. I think I'm doing this whole area in beans next year, it's had tomatoes, peppers and potatoes (as well as beans) in it for 3 years now, though I do try to rotate rows I only have 4 (100ft long).

Old picture July 2012

My apologies for the ridiculous amount of posts and to all those sub'd .. Pictures you want, pictures you'll get OP lol..

Those cages look great (galvanized!) but too much $$ for me I'm afraid - maybe I can do a couple dozen a year.

I lost track of the Bonnie Best - at least 30 in the shot showing entire side. The Yellow BW looks good (except for the crack, I had 1 like that in bin last night, put it in my cooler and then DS put a gal of milk on it and smashed it!). How do they taste?

Haha nothing worse than a small split that ends up destroying the entire piece of fruit with just a little pressure .. Like the theme of this forum, taste is extremely subjective lol .. With that being said, they are like sugar and delicious! IMO
I tried my best to keep from taking any duplicates so counting the BB pics individually (if it's worth the time) should be pretty accurate.

Keep in mind Daniel that I've also been harvesting from this plant for the past couple weeks.. I'd figure in another 10-12 tops.. Again, I have nothing at all to prove, this is simply a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy.

I don't like talking numbers etc because all people and plants are individuals. There are far too many variables to consider any two peoples' experiences on here as side by side comparisons (unless the necessary steps were taken to achieve such a thing of course).

Here’s what they looked like shortly after planting (you can see the fencing better).

This one shows the ties

I grew Green Drs too, and those definitely drape over the top of the fence! The pic you posted wasn’t accessible.

Susan

>After years of cussing at cages, we grow on wire fencing.

Excellent decision, imo !

I’m looking at one of your pictures (please see bellow.)

What can I say ? Your solution is:

* SIMPLE
* ELEGANT
* STURDY
* LONG-LASTING
* CHEPEAR than cages (for same surface / area)…

What else can you ask ? Your trellis simply does the job !

[NOTE: Picture's copyright belongs to Susan (homegrowninthe603)]

Here's a closeup from that year - still early so the plants hadn't gotten out of control yet.

So you plant practically underneath the fencing? And use white/gray (poly baling?) twine to tie them? Looks like good-sized holes to me - bigger than 2x4 fencing I have, though not as big as CRW.

Michael wrote:

> My apologies for the ridiculous amount of posts and to all those sub'd .. Pictures you want, pictures you'll get OP lol..

Hehe, I loved those pictures.

I saw interesting things such as: a really sturdy cage, a “scary” monster tomato, and a few other things.

Michael, did you buy the cage or you made it ? (link please if you bought it.)

What landscape fabric did you use ? (link please.)

To be honest I never heard of Bonny Best. Well, you live and learn. I’ll try both Bonny Best and Yellow Brandywine next year.

I don’t know in your computers but in mine, most of Michael’s pictures were… horizontal, not straight…

Yes azomite and rock dust are one in the same .. You surely know your stuff and will do just fine I'm sure.. I'm curious how you could have experienced some burn with the foliar application though.. Was it mid-day, or morning when you applied?

The KIS products look nice, are you using their brewer as well, or homemade? The BB is indeed an heirloom, but I personally wouldn't recommend it .. I find the good ol' Jetstars to be similar in yield with much more flavor ( IMO of course lol).. I know, they're not an heirloom.. please don't excommunicate me gardenweb haha.. Haven't grown JS' in a while but I used to really enjoy them..

Daniel,
LoL that monster tomato with all the cat-facing was funny looking! Should have seen it in person .. I made the cages from cattle panels that I purchased at tractor supply.. I'll try to dig up the DIY for ya .. The landscape fabric was nothing special, just the run of the mill Home Depot special lol (weedblock- brand name). As I said to Linda, I personally wouldn't recommend the BB in regards to flavor but again, we all have different palate's etc .. Now the YB I would most def recommend .. I'd also be interested in the Orlov Yellow that Linda mentioned ..

In regards to the pictures: I don't understand why they rotate when in the preview they're correct.. This site isn't too user-friendly when it comes to images.. It stinks having to post them individually (without photobucket etc) HINT HINT GW.... Lol

Thank you ALL for the well wishes for the Mrs!

Ajsmama, the ties are just any clean old cotton t-shirt that has seen better days, torn into strips. Just happened to be a gray one! Yes the fencing has a 6" x 7' grid which should accomodate even a large tomato. However with the vines, leaves, ties, and clusters of fruit it is almost impossible to harvest some fruit through the grid without damage. I just pick from both sides of the fence. You have a much bigger operation than we do. We just have a family garden, even though it is a rather large one!

Michael, thanks for sharing all of your photos. Impressive cages! My best wishes for your wife's recovery too.

So much good information to be had from everyone.

Susan

> Daniel, thank you. The fences may not be right for everyone, but they work well for us.

EVERYONE... no, MOST OF US.... yes.

Except someone who has a very "complicated" garden that requests cages, ANYBODY ELSE could use your beautiful solution.

Those who HAVE TO use cages, better use STURDY cages, such as Michael's cages (see picture bellow.) [ BEAUTIFUL job, Michael ! ]

I do NOT recommend the regular cages.

I saw this EXPENSIVE Folding Professional Gauge Galvanized Tomato Cage

Never tried it, but looks interesting (72 inch high x 21 inch diameter)

$ 35... PER CAGE !

NOTE: the pictures were taken today Sunday,October 5, 2014.

Imagine 4 plants, 4 52" tall home made cages 3 feet across that have morfied into a giant tomatoe mass 10x10x5 feet tall.

No photos, but it looks like a big green mass that we stopped most watering to get to stop making so many tomatoes a month ago

Each season we try and plant a few less in the hopes of not having so many tomatoes, but other than the yellow this season it seems we end up with the same number no matter the number of plants.

Now I am babying my hot peppers . They have no disease and are loaded with pods. Since they are in pots I can move them around and put them inside the mini hoops.

Say hello (or Good bye ?!) to your jungle for me ! :-)

> Yep, even with over 100 plants all you have to do is pick then spray, then wait 7 days to pick again.

Can't wait to see the "jungle" in my hoop house...

Today will mark our coldest day this fall, so far : 57/47F. Tomorrow will be back to mid 60s (65F). Jungle no more.

Today Tuesday, October 27, 2014 we had here in Long Island (NY) a highest of… 72’ F !