Here is another view.

Scarring at blossom end. Not rotting. Will be fine if suitable weather continues long enough.

Thanks. I was actually talking about the (brownish?) yellow discoloration-you can see another one to the right which has a cooler, pale hue to it-but thank you anyway.

Looks to me like it will ripen soon.

Rodney

Definitely NOT rotting.
The pale color is an indication that another color is going to show up soon. You can pick that one and let ripen on the counter.

For the mildew you can mix up a teaspoon of baking soda in water and spray as much leaf surface as you can. While at this point your not going to cure the problem, making the leaf surface unattractive to the mildew, you can probably help the plant continue better until your first frost

. Some folks use a milk and water mixture, but I like to keep a little hand pump pressure sprayer in the garden shed and use as soon as I spot the teeniest suggestion of mildew ! The milk would sour the way I use this.

Either formula is edible and not harmful if you get it on you. That's the biggest plus.

I agree, both tomatoes look fine. That will be fun to see what they turn out to be. Hope they're tasty. :)

Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/powdery-mildew

This post was edited by plaidbird on Sat, Sep 13, 14 at 18:59

@ Seysonn - Pick the one with the yellowish tint, you mean?

@ Plaidbird - Thanks for the mildew tips. I actually tried the baking soda a while back but I probably didn't spray anywhere near enough-I was afraid that I would do more damage than good. And I only did it the one time. Perhaps I will try again.

I had one that color, the yellowing, brought it in and it is ripening in a brown bag. Actually, all the tomatoes on that particular plant turned that color before they turned red. I bring all my tomatoes that can ripen inside because of theft at the community garden.

@ Dominick,

Notice I didn't say it would cure the mildew at this point, LOL, but what I was thinking was if you could slow it down, stop it from spreading as such things can do this time of year, the plant would be better able to finish working on those tomatoes you have been dreaming off all this season. ;)

I've not had PM on tomatoes but I do the yearly stand off with PM on a huge Star of India clematis. All the books explain that this particular clem will regularly have PM, so the trick is control from the start, and sticking with it.

If I'm late starting, there is more PM during it's season. If I start fine, but then ignore it for a few weeks, it looks horrid. I was just out watering in that part of the garden, and see that this year I apparently did pretty good. What PM was left on the plant about a month plus ago,... can't be seen... new growth has covered the past sins and a new flush of blooms is looking really nice.

I've never worried about too much baking soda. I soak the plant till parts are dripping, making sure to try and hit any PM I see, under and on top of leaves and stems. Thus the reason I ended up with the little quart pressure sprayer. Best investment ever. I can just pump it up a couple times and do that huge , old plant. I'm probably using a quart and a half most times I spray.The plant goes up a 12 foot ladder then off to the east and west for many feet. As far as how often, I just eyeball it. I spray when it shows PM. That may be every day or every week. The peak of my issues seem to be about every other day. Only the first day requires so much time and spray most of the time. Depends on the weather mostly at that point.

Not tomatoes but my point is lots is okay, and being steady and reliable seems to be the trick. Then too, some things like melons and gourds just are going to get PM about this time of year, not matter what we do. It's just part of the season winding down. And yes, I also add my cucumber and zucchini plants in to the baking soda spray routine once the PM starts to show up. Adds a whole minute or two to "chores". ;)
Slows the PM down and I think it adds a little more time to my harvest. At the very least, it sure looks better.

I've never had any need to use any harsher, potentially more toxic sprays around here. I know some folks do, but I want you to know plenty of us don't. We focus an providing the best growing environment for our plants , resulting in non-stressed plants that generally stay pretty darn healthy. That and selecting plants not susceptible to problems. Planting at the right times and accepting that it's a big wild world out there where the plants live. A few bite marks here and there can be expected, but that's not a reason do declare a war, which the gardener will never win anyway.

The best " medicine" is experience and a nice comfortable spot to sit and just quietly observe. Best of luck with that nice looking tomato.

I noticed a picture of some tomatoes than look a bit like yours, so let me share. Pretty cool !

Here is a link that might be useful: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cooking/msg0900171114648.html

This post was edited by plaidbird on Sat, Sep 13, 14 at 23:49

Dominick, since the tomato is not the cherry you were expecting, it very well may not be the color you were expecting either. It's possible it may turn out to be a yellow or "white" tomato instead of a red. I don't know what zone you are in, but if the nights (or days) are starting to really chill down, you may want to pick them and continue to ripen them in the house in warmer conditions. If they continue to stay yellow instead of pink or red, you can determine ripeness by a gentle squeeze which will feel soft and giving, not hard as a rock. I know I have missed peak ripeness for paler yellow and green when ripe tomatoes many times, because they just did not look ripe -- until I noticed they were starting to split.

Did you get your seeds from the last year seed swap? I also planted Jagodka cherry tomato seeds from the swap.... and ended up with the flattened orange beefsteaks. Curious if yours are orange too....