I have not started cutting the roll for cages yet though. I am unsure on my cage diameter and trying to figure out the most efficient diameter that will still get me the most cages per roll. I found some posts in my search that incidcated anywhere from 20 inch diameter to 32 inch diameter, some indicated they got about 30 cages per roll. To make a 30 diameter cage, each cage would have to be just shy of 100 inches of length (circumference = diameter x 3.14). 150 feet is 1800 inches divided by 100 inches per cage would only allow me 18 cages. So I need some advice here.

I made each cage with 8 "closed" squares and a 9th "open" square. I bent the end wires of the 9th squares into hooks to complete the cylinders. I didn't crimp the hooks all the way closed, so it's easy to unhook the cages, lay them down and cover them for makeshift low tunnels in early spring.

It was tough to work with the ends of the rolls, but, aside from being a little crooked, both end-of-roll cages are fine. I only got 31 cages out of the first roll. I thought maybe the squares (counting the vertical wire) were just slightly larger than 6", but, when I measured them, they were actually slightly smaller. At 9 squares x 6" per square, it appears about 10' of wire was missing from that first roll last spring. I don't know about the roll we got this spring since I used part of it for flower bed fencing.

With our short, cool growing season (May 20-Sept 20, average July/August highs: 82/80), we're able to get by with skinny cages. Several cultivars would be a lot happier in roomier cages for sure. Eva Purple Ball, Big Rainbow and Sungold come readily to mind :) You might want roomier cages if you're blessed with a longer and warmer growing season.

I think you'll like your painted cages. Like I said above, we used part of a roll of CRW this spring to fence our dogs out of flower beds. We cut the wire to whatever heights were appropriate for each bed, then sopped on high-gloss white Rustoleum. The fences turned out very attractive and for a fraction of what garden fencing would have cost.

Almost forgot, if you haven't seen it, you might look for Korney's post about how to cut the bottom wire to keep all the cage height but still have respectable, built-in stakes.

Good luck!

I have read Korney's post. I plan on doing just that. Makes perfect sense but I don't know if I would have thought of it on my own.

Yeah, I have probably a month on either side of your growing season and average July/August highs probably in the mid to upper 90s, even higher this summer with the heatwave.

I did the math at 20 inch diameter cages and I could make 28 cages. I want to make the cages roomy enough, but not anymore than necessary.

I may end up doing the Florida Weave style with cattle panels in 2012 because I won't have enough cages built yet for all of my tomatoes.

As to your question about diameter, I had the choice between 18 and 24 inch cages, and chose 24. The rep. said 24 was by far the most popular, and I've been very happy with the size. Thinking back I'm pretty sure my CRW homemade ones were about that same size.

PS, be VERY careful when you're cutting and assembling them. You may already know this, but the wire can snap while you're trying to flatten or roll it and those cut ends can move fast and make very painful injuries!

Good luck!

Tom- Does a smaller diameter help support the plant more as it grows taller?

I'm hoping to have time before winter to get my cages cut to length at least, if not painted. However, with fall garden cleanup and house renovating, and almost no daylight in the evenings, its hard to fit everything in.

About the time I was trying to decide on a cage diameter, I read about a poster's tomato plants collapsing in their cages, dragged down from the weight of the fruits. If I recall correctly, the cages were fairly large, maybe 30" or so. It seems a slightly narrower cage, in which the branches can extend outward and then be tucked/woven back in if necessary, might help support the a plant that's heavy with fruit.

That said, balancing the need for support with the need for air circulation (and all your other needs) is partly art, I suppose. In our case, the climate is usually quite dry in the first place, and the nearly constant wind pretty well takes care of circulation :) It might be helpful to keep in mind that each inch of diameter makes a quite a difference in area. Of course, there's also the option of making a few different sizes. HTH

Exactly.
The larger ones are OK also, I put cherries in the larger cages, particularly Sungold, as the cherries seem more rampant than most.
That said, I think the 10 square cages are generally the best for most plants as they do provide more support. I don't prune either and tend to let the branches grow through the cages as they are better supported that way. Some stake their cages also, I don't unless they topple over more than once. It usually doesn't hurt them too much, maybe a greenie or 2 knocked off, but that's about it.
I was going to try using tent pegs through the bottom rungs this year, but I didn't have any occasion until really late in the season and I just didn't bother, just carefully pick them up and stick the bottom of the cages in the ground again. I wonder if anyone tried this?
I also use older cages for cukes, pole beans, tall peas, etc..
Some other tips: invest in a pair of bolt cutters, some leather gloves, and wear a long shirt and pants.
Happy Gardening,
Tom

Check on bolt cutters and gloves. I'll only be wearing long shirt and pants if weather permits that. I'm pretty brave, or stupid :-)

Good choice! Saves a lot of cuts, sore hands, time, and aggravation!

I had forgot about your post. After seeing it again I want to give you my results. I cut mine at the 12th hole, 5" per hole, overlap the cut end for extra strength. So mine are 60" in length, 55" actual length after the overlap. I haven't measured the actual diameter. I can if you want to know.

They are pretty much perfect for all of my different toms. They support well without any extra tying up and/or staking. The better boys, and parks whopper needed no attention. The early girls and brandy wine needed to be weaved back in because the limbs were hanging outside and would have broke.

I measured several and in every different direction! Pretty round! LOL

I think where mine varied was the measurement of 5" per hole. I measured from the outside of each wire so I lost maybe about 1/16th or so per space? Too much math for me at the moment, been a hard day here at work.

You can then nest them and store them in 1/3 the space they would otherwise need. It's a pain to stack and unstack, but in my experience, easier than moving them out of your way many times every year.

If you have enough room that storage is not a problem, never-mind!

Lucky you!

Also, I had wintersown WAY too many tomatoes, as usual. I have about 100 planted out and growing well (one even has maters on it) and getting big enough they are flopping and need the cages. I have 6 rows of peas on three 16-ft long cattle panels. The peas are done so I'm going to pull them and plant the extra tomatoes in their place and try a Florida weave.

CORRECTION! EDIT! DO OVER!
I much prefer 24" diameter CRM cages. If you only make a few, that will be good for everything. If you want 40-60 or more cages, like I have, and have limited storage area, make 1/3 of them 14 squares circumference, 1/3 of them 12 squares circumference, and 1/3 of them 10 squares circumference.

You can then nest them and store them in 1/3 the space they would otherwise need. It's a pain to stack and unstack, but in my experience, easier than moving them out of your way many times every year.

The links below should help you.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/Organic-Gardening/2002-06-01/Using-Wire -Mesh.aspx#axzz2KhvfzaPf

Many past discussions here about them with pictures but I don't know if they are still available but there are many YouTube videos on them. Linked one below

And Google pulls up 100's of images of them. CRW pics

Dave