You might want to consider making your own cages out of concrete reinforcing wire (CRW). You can get a 50-foot roll (don't buy the flat pieces) for about $40 at either Home Depot or Lowes, and, if you need it, a small pair of bolt cutters costs around $15.

A 50-foot roll makes about 8 cages, depending on the size (there are several threads on this board about making them), and you can make them in an afternoon. Also, your wooden stakes need not go to waste, as you can use them to anchor your cages into the ground (though my preference is to use 9" plastic tree spikes with the small hook at the top).

I hope this helps!

As you'll see if you have read through the many cages vs. stakes discussions here that cages will win out over stakes every time when it comes to support.

Stakes work only when you take the time to carefully prune the plants to only 1 or 2 stems and carefully tie the stems.

But if CRW cages are out, then research 'Florida weave' and see if that method of using stakes and strings will work for you.

Dave

I had the same problem my first year with bamboo stakes. Now I use the 9ft tomato stakes from HD and Lowes. They are about $9 per stake and made of plastic-coated metal.

As Dave mentioned I prune to 1 to 3 stems, and use stretch tape to tie them up.

I would love to do CRW cages, but with hurricanes I need something I can pull up quickly and store inside. Plus staking allows me to put more plants in the garden.

I had similar problems. 2009 was my first year, and I used 6 foot 1"x1" stakes to do a Florida weave, and was unhappy with the whole setup. I used a sort of jute twine first which stretched out over time and did nothing, then tried Mason line, which at that point ended up actually bending my wooden stakes, as well as pulling them toward the center. One or two stakes rotted in the ground and snapped off at the very end.

My problem is that my tomato garden is right in my line of site from many windows in the house, and I don't want to do CRW cages because they rust and are ugly. (Yes, I realize I am not hardcore enough for many of you if aesthetics is a concern!)

My plan for 2010 is to get some beefier stakes, use one per plant and prune, and also perhaps to support the stakes with additional rope and little stakes, like you do to support the posts of a volleyball net. I think pruning is also for me because it produces a slightly tidier looking garden, perhaps at the expense of production, but so be it.

I have had problems with the plastic coated thin steel stakes - bending and breaking and now use these heavier metal poles called Rite-Stake that comes in various lengths I have used 5' 6' 7' 8' 9' about 1" + in diameter and thicker steel - 4.99 to 8.99 approx at OSH hardware - meant to stake small trees and shrubs and can be pounded into the ground with a hammer or small sledge hammer - I also use Texas tomato cages (my favorite)which I add a few each year as they are pricey

The cheapest, most durable stakes are rebar. You can buy the 20 footers at Home Depot, and cut them down into 4 5-foot stakes, or for plants like Sungold, 6 to 7 foot, as you like. I use rebar and fence cages for the hefty plants.

Carla in Sac

I find it amazing that people still stake tomatoes. Since the tomato cage was invented before 1870.

I agree with the wire mesh tomato cages comment. Purchase a 50 foot roll from Lowes and cut it into 8 cages a little over 6 feet long. Cut in the middle of the vertical wires so that each piece has half of the horizontal wire. takes the edges and bend at a 100 degree angle which will create a hook effect. Bend the cages into a circle and clamp both ends together using the hooks. Try welding metal spikes to the bottom for extra strength in the ground!

ufseeds:
How tall is that 50 foot roll when it's all rolled up?

In the past I have done what I think you suggest, but the roll stood only about 3 feet high, so the cages worked great until the plants got too tall for them, which happened pretty quickly. My plants were all 6-7 feet tall.

Another possibility is flat panels run parallel to each other and the plants in between them.

Sure you still have some tucking back in of vines to do but you will have to do that also with cages.

This system also stores better than cages overwinter.

Basic idea
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The "V" shape will help hold the plants up some so they dont just fall down into the row. But weaving vines back into the squares will do that too.

Also, on rebar. Be sure to use at least half inch, preferably 5/8" rebar, otherwise a full grown indeterminate plant could bend or topple it with a good wind storm.

I recommend investing in "T" posts for staking.

vegnewsday
I use texas tomato cages - large 6' 24" diameter, medium 6' 18" diameter, and small 4' 18" diameter - these
fold flat at the end of the season - extentions are also available in 2' sections - I have over 3 dozen but it takes time to buy them as they cost per six cages $69 sm, $79 med, $99 lg plus shipping direct - I have been buying 6 a year ever since I found them - also the ones they cell to nurseries etc are shorter - you can only get the med and large like I bought directly from the dealer another option is cattle fencing which works good staked - better than concrete reinforcement - but the problem with both of these is the height is short for most indeterminate plants

The best thing I've found is homemade PVC cages. They're easy to make, come apart for storage, are very strong, and last "forever". You can make them any size you want, and can even spray paint them. The PVC is smooth and has a relatively large diameter, so the plants never get damaged by it. LOL, I could go on and on about the benefits. I love these things. If you're interested, e-mail me and I'll send directions.

Earlier in the year Thomis posted about a ladder-type support, hinged at the top, that could be closed up or flattened to store. I might get DH to build me some next season. Here's a link to the thread they were mentioned in...

Here is a link that might be useful: tomato ladders

Everyone is different,I guess it depends on how many plants and the size. I grow only giant beefstakes and use a combination cage with rebar support at a cost of 10 dollars. The one shown has been in service for 8yrs. The storms have blown a couple of tomatos off the vine,but never toppled any of the plants. I grow my plants from seed and what I like about the cages is you can cover the young plant in the early frost.

Greenhummer,

That's about as healthy, lush, and well loaded tomato plant
growing in a well managed and artful tomato garden, surrounded by an equally beautiful lawn area as I've seen in years.

What are you using for mulch there?

Larry (A bit green with envy)

I like the CRW cages and they are very easy to make. It is easy to recoup the cost of your cages by making extras and selling them. People buy these cages once they see them in your garden.

Dale

Great thread!

Beautiful plant, greenhummer! If you don't mind, could you please fill me in on the specific components of your $10 system? And how tall is the whole cage? What variety is that tomato? It looks extremely productive!

Thanks,
Caroline

One way to use flimsy stakes for heavy plants is to sink/pound in metal T-posts at each end of the row and string a sturdy line between them and then tie off your flimsy posts to the line. Otherwise you have to sink/pound in each stake deeply into the soil in order for it to hold a heavy plant. This also give you the option to add more stakes to a plant if it goes squirrely on you.

Just an idea: I have a small garden of tomatoes: 6' X 10' about. I'm going to place 2x2 PT wooden states along the periphery, then place a layer of CRW horizontally about 8" above the ground (and parallel to the ground). Then I'll nail the wire to the top of the 2x2 supports. My hope is that the young plants will grow upward through the wire, so the tomatoes can grown off of the ground. It's just an idea that I had. What do you all think? (I take constructive criticism well).

Interesting discussion. I guess it also has to do with the quantity of the number of cages. I have probably close to 100 CRW cages and 120 CRW half pepper cages. They take up a huge amount of space when I remove them from the garden. I am keeping the nicest ones and scraping the rest. I am not going to plant any tomatoes outside of the high tunnel again. I prefer the florida weave in the high tunnel. I use steel "T" posts and 7 foot wooden posts. I have some wooden ones break off from time to time, usually at the end of the season. You just deal with it.

Jay

That's what I was going to say. Florida weave using t posts that you use for farm fence. You can get by with having them every third or fourth plant if you use good twine. Don't ever use that cheap jute twine from the $ store, it doesn't last all season. use some good twine like this:

Here is a link that might be useful: tomato twine

Has anyone ever made supports in a teepee shape? I was watching Cultivating Life on PBS and saw that Sean Conway the host uses an A shape trellis system at his house. He makes a wood frame and than uses chicken wire. The tomatoes grow on a slant and I believe are tied down to the chicken wire. The nice thing is that the whole system can be folded up and used from year to year. I'm tempted to try building them, but I'm a little nervous to try something new.

I am lucky i used to work for a air filtration company and we manufactured 4 1/2" diameter cages. i currently utilize 60 of them,(15 are stainless steel, are 12 yrs. old and still look brand new). i cut them to 9 foot tall and the tomatoes still grew out the top. i also made a 4' wide,8' tall and 32' long trellis using military fiberglass antenna poles. i grew everything from cucumbers to tomatoes. neighors call me the mad scientist, but it works great. and the nice thing is i can move out of garden in fall by myself.

Just a few comments on the previous posts. I too, am a fan of CRW. With regard to aesthetics, it rusts and you dont notice it much during the growing season. You do have to store them somewhere, but I find a spot shielded from the house and stack them up on their sides(I have about 40). Also CRW always seems to come in 6' height, so I dont understand the comment about plants getting too tall, but I have many plants that grow out the top of the 6 footers. I make my cages with larger diameters than the ones pictured (i use 13 squares and cut just before the 14th starts.) You will get quite a workout cutting the wire and a good pair of linesman's pliers or similar will help. I also use 2-3' rebar stakes bent in a vise to a candy cane shape and pound them in the ground so they clasp the lower part of the cage a foot or so off the ground (2/cage). It's been some work over the years, but it is a final solution to tomato staking. Remember that the roll of wire has been bent in a roll and it will want to roll back up as soon as you cut the last of the horizontal wires, so be careful you dont poke yourself in the eye!

A clear and concise "Florida Weave" how-to page (with diagrams no less!).

Regardless of method, I do know T-posts are the only stakes that don't bend. Expensive at first, but they last a long, long time.

Here is a link that might be useful: Florida Weave

I don't want to do CRW cages because they rust and are ugly.

Buy galvanized if you're worried about it. The tomatoes will pretty much cover the cage so you won't be able to see what color it is.

Also, on rebar. Be sure to use at least half inch, preferably 5/8" rebar, otherwise a full grown indeterminate plant could bend or topple it with a good wind storm.

I recommend investing in "T" posts for staking.

Go with the t-posts if you get wind. Two or three of my cages toppled last year staked with 5/8" rebar. Tomatoes didn't really mind ; )

I don't want to do CRW cages because they rust and are ugly.

A very minor consideration when it comes to the real issue - tomato support. The cages are completely hidden by the plants anyway unless you prune them heavily and if you do that then you don't need cages anyway.

You can always spray pint them I guess if it bothers you for some reason. Or as already suggested, just buy galvanized.

Dave

i agree with crw. i have to garden in raised beds and they would waste too much space so i came up with a slightly different metod. has worked pretty good.

william

I had the same problem so I am experimenting as well.

Last year though I got frustrated with the flimsy 'stakes' so I rounded up some metal fence posts and hammered them into the ground. It was a lot of work, but it did in a pinch. (I live on a farm so we had 50 of those posts laying around).

I definitely like William's idea (the post above this one). A guy up the road is an old timer and that is how he does his. That bull wire is expensive, but it will last 20 years once you set it up.

alamo- the cattle panel is 16 ft long and about 53 inches wide and are about 18 bucks a pc.

william

Giant Tomato Trellis

My giant tomato trellis is constructed on a 4-foot square raised bed. In this bed I plant four tomato plants spaced 2 feet apart giving each plant 4 square feet of space. A 4-foot pathway covered with wood chips separates each 4-foot bed. The beds are filled with a special growing mixture consisting of 1/3 compost. 1/3 peat moss and 1/3 vermiculite. Don�t use ordinary dirt, too many weed seeds.

I have devised a novel way of connecting the corners of the raised bed by using 1 � inch PVC pipe. The PVC pipe corners serve a dual purpose. They not only hold the boards together but they also serve as sockets for the insertion of 1" plastic pipe 4 feet long for the trellis. The tops of these four corner posts are connected together in a square using angles and tees. None of the connectors are cemented, just jammed together. This makes for easy assembly and disassembly for winter storage.

In order to support the 6-foot indeterminate tomato plants, I use the Florida weave between the diagonal posts, spacing the twine every foot up the 4-foot posts. Only one variety of tomatoes is planted in each bed.

The corner sockets can also be used to construct a fence by inserting 2 foot pieces of 1 inch PVC pipe in each corner fastener and wrapping it with plastic netting 2 feet high. A frame for a canopy can also be built by inserting flexible � inch water pipe 8 feet long in diagonal corners. This could be covered with plastic sheeting for a miniature green house to prolong the gardening season a few more months.

The raised beds are constructed of 2 X 8 pressure treated lumber. To make the plastic pipe corners, I cut the 1-� inch PVC pipe into 7 � inch pieces. I then drill four 1/8th inch holes clear through the pipe at right angles to each other opposite to where they will be screwed to the board sides using 2" deck screws. In order to insert a 2-inch deck screw, the two holes on one side have to be reamed larger with a 3/8th inch drill bit. These holes are drilled an inch from both ends of the PVC pipe corner.

Here is a link that might be useful: PVC Corner

What works best for me is the 6-7 foot T-post or metal fence posts. I pound it into the ground about 12-16 inches deep. As my tomato grows I tie the main stem to the post for support. I also use a tomato cage around each plant for extra support. Since I have done this none have ever tipped over (as the tomato cages alone will do). The T-posts are about $5 each and a tomato cage is about $3 each for a total of $8 per plant. These are re-usable every year. Since I am into aesthetics also, each year I usually paint the T-posts a different color with spray paint (tomato cages too).

When pounding the Tposts or even treated 2x2s, use a post driver. It will cost you $20-30 but well worth it versus a sledge hammer. I always seem to miss the post with the sledge, but with the driver I can drive several without missing. I also recommend getting the driver with the handles versus without. You can drive the posts easier with the driver with handles.

Lots of great methods/pics posted on here already! I agree with a few people above in that you kind of need to find the best method for you/your area. We tend to have a lot of storms in Middle TN in late Winter/early Spring with a lot of wind. So, mine last year went in to 10 gallon pots with my usual potting medium with one of those 5-6 ft green stakes in the middle. I then put a cage around them very early on. I tied the cage to my deck securely with a few stings to help with the wind issue. Then, later on when they got to be 5 or so ft tall, I tied another cage, upside-down, on top of the first one. This worked very well for me.

- Steve

I have been experimenting with a variation of Florida Weave. I call it California Basket Weave. I run two rows of Tee Posts 12 to 18 inches apart. I run cotton bakers twine from a restaurant supply (Smart and Final) around the perimeter about every twelve inches vertical. The results were good enough in the last two years that I plan to doing it again this year.

Zeuspaul

I use the CRW cages but didn't know people staked them down. We cut the bottom horizontal line off and use the spikey verticle pieces as built in stakes. I just use my foot to push them into the ground.

You lose a square in height at the top but the cages are still as tall as I am anyway. ;)

FLORIDA WEAVE variation:

I drive a 5ft rebar next to each plant when I plant them.
I use a hammer to drive the bars down so they wont bend.
I keep tying the main to the bars.
I also drive few more bars, at the center of 4 plants.

Example: I have 2 rows, 3 plants per row. I use one bar per plant(6), plus 2 at the center and keep weaving..
Cost:
Buy an 11 ft. length, for $5.00 (from HD), cut it into two. So the cost per stake is $2.50.
Advantages: Very flexible, sturdy, easly to store, last for ever, easy to reach and harvest. Also, I do not like the look of cages. With FW, you have a natural look.

I saw in a magazine once someone used flat cattle panels. They did not stand them up, but rather left them flat on the ground. In fact they had 2 or 3 of them stacked up on top of each other.
What they did is planted their tomatoes in the grid and as they grew to a certain height they lifted all 3 up and tied them off to big posts on each corner of the panels.

Next round they left one panel where it was and moved two up until all three were spaced maybe 2 or three feet between each panel.

It looked really neat in the magazine.

Alamo5000, I like majac777's idea which is a variation of your idea. The one trouble with trying to lift the panels after the tomato plants are already growing in them besides being awkward to do would be that a lot of the branches would get broken.
My idea would be a variation of both of your ideas. Instead of using posts I would use 8x8x16 inch cement blocks stood on end to raise the concrete reinforcing mesh 16 inches above the ground. Let the tomatoes grow up to it and then just let them sprawl on top of the mat 16 inches above the ground. You would have the ease and higher production of sprawling tomatoes without the rot and insect damage you get if tomatoes touch the ground. At the end of the season just roll the mesh up and stack the cement blocks in the corner.

Hey, I like your idea. Less work for sure. I might give it a go. I am growing in buckets this year but I might have extra plants hopefully that I could try this on.

I use heavy posts at row end and run greenhouse wire between the posts. From the wires I use strong cord or plasticized wire to hold up the plants. The cord is adjusted as the plants grow.

There is a picture in the proud vegetables gallery.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Support

what i do is use the cages and when they get taller start the weave above the cage 1x1 s are not strong enough try 2x2 or 2x4 if there falling over try a cement 3 bucs a bag makes them alot stronger from tipping

I'm looking to find 1 inch diameter plastic covered metal tomato poles about 8 or 9 feet long. I have thinner ones now and heavy winds bend and break them. I live in NE Rhode Island. Most of the time the weather is good but we get some ridiculous weather sometimes. I only need about 12 of them at the most. I have been searching for them as recommended by Mark Green of Harris Seeds. Can you direct me to where to buy them?
Thankyou,
Frank