In the past, of used drip-line/soaker hoses. They've been okay, but I find that I have spring maintenance each year with needing to reconfigure hose and or change out drippers.

That got me thinking about changing out my irrigation technique to a wicking bed format (see link below for how this is done).

I'm wondering for those that use wicking beds, what are the pros and cons vs. drip lines?

smithmal

Thanks for posting. Yes, I've read that wicking beds excel in arid areas as it's mode of supplying water is extremely efficient.

I'm in 6B (MD) that is not arid, but at the same time but we have been known to get 4-6 weeks of drought from time to time.

Creating a system in which root development is stressed since the water comes from the bottom of the soil line rather than the top seems like a great idea. I've had issues growing carrots using drip lines. Most likely because the water doesn't penetrate deep into the soil. I'm assuming that a wicking bed would be fabulous for carrot growing (among other things).

In terms of bog issues, if you have over-flow ports at the bottom of your wicking bed and install it with a slight decline present, I would think over saturation wouldn't be a big deal (unless of course you're dealing with monsoon like rains).

Finally, the mentality of low maintenance watering (i.e. you water once per week) is also enticing. The area where I'm moving my bed to is pretty far away from my water spigot and slightly up hill. So unless I want to run a line out to it, a drip system would be problematic.

smithmal

I don't think wicking beds are a good idea unless you are in a pretty arid region. For the 4 to 6 weeks of your "drought", they might be fine - but the rest of the time you'll be in that "garden suicide" area mentioned by the other poster. I'm IN an arid region and I've found that good mulch plus drip is quicker and easier for me to deal with.

Also, I get a lot more than a year out of my drip irrigation tubing and parts - perhaps because they are mostly buried by mulch or protected under the "canopy" of the plant they are watering. The fact that I roll the whole thing up and store it (well drained) over winter may have something to do with it as well.

I lay down a couple layers of broken down brown corrugated cardboard, lay out the drip system, and top with wood mulch (not the dyed stuff).

If you're in Arizona, NM, or Nevada, or places like that - a wicking bed might be just the thing for you. But I'm IN the High Sierra Desert and haven't seen a need to go to something like that yet. I have no doubt it would use even less water than a mulched/drip system (since I'd mulch a bed like that anyway) but I got by just fine without the extra expense and effort to put one in.

Thanks for the response.

Your points are well taken. I hadn't thought about root rot, but if the soil is continually wet since it is always wicking water from the water reservoir layer, one could definitely expect rot to occur.

The wicking bed is well known as being a touted as a "self watering" system. If rot occurs, that's a deal breaker. I'm wondering how thick the soil layer should be to ensure good root development without root rot occurring.

Has anyone employed a wicking bed and can comment on soil moisture using this system?

Basically, I don't think the bed CAN be "deep enough to ensure good root development without root rot". Too deep, and the top layer stays dry. Too shallow, and its root-rot central.

You also can't flush these, or at least not very easily, to wash out the salt build-up Aniaj describes. Most of the designs I've seen for these (if not all) depend largely on some form of liner that retains water in the bed.

I used to be a big proponent of these types of beds. Of late, however, I'm significantly less enthusiastic.