DC,

A major problem that I see.

The cutworms that I know are already in the soil and climb up and encircle the stem at the soil line and gnaw off that stem and you almost never see the worms unless after the deed is done you might be digging around in the soil.

You wouldn't want to sprinkle the soil, or drench it, with Sevin, I wouldn't think, and I can'see putting BT (Thuricide) in the soil either.

A foolproof way to stop cutworm damage is to stick a plastic soda straw or sturdy twig right next to the stem of those young plants that have weak stems, since the cutworms won't attack plants with strong stems.

Since the worm has to coil up around the stem prior to gnawing, using a physical barrier prevents that.

Cut worm collars simply do not work since the worms can crawl up inside the collars.

Now I know that there are several different kinds of cutworms, and those that do go up the stems and eat the foliage can be found in the south, but at least here in the NE we have only the kind that gnaw off at the soil line, so that's why I wanted to share what I'm sharing.

if you see them up high in the foliage,as might be the case in some areas of the south, it seems to me that they could be picked off and stomped on, just as one would do with hornworms. In any case one could use a contact something or other for those types, but not the ones that are primarily soil dwellers and seem to work overnight while we caretakers are asleep. ( smile)

Carolyn

Hi Carolyn and the group, Thanks for the info.

"if you see them up high in the foliage,as might be the case in some areas of the south, it seems to me that they could be picked off and stomped on, just as one would do with hornworms."

Yes the caterpillars in the picture above were all found about half way up the tomato plant. I walk around the plants taking a close look and when I see new leaf damage I start turning over the leaves and sometimes I find tiny ones that have already done a lot of damage. When I find the tiny ones I simply smash them on the leaf with my fingers. Doing this with the bigger ones gets, well yucky! After smashing the little ones I go back and spray the area with Sevin to try and get any that I miss.

Regarding the bigger caterpillars, I would love to pick them off the leaves and then drop them in to a carnivorous plant like the pitcher plant - for a little plant revenge ;-)

I also have had small plants cut off at the soil line and will try the straw trick.

Take care, DC

Umm. The delay in the Bt knocccking out the cats is NORMAL for that material.

Sevin gives speedier results but is also very TOXIC to bees.

Another option, also with very speedy results: handpicking.

You get to choose which you want to use.

I have always been told that caterpillars stop feeding immediately once the Bt is ingested and that in 3 days or so they are dead. So your experiment does not take this into account

Sevin is also a broad spectrum insecticide knocking out your beneficials insects along with the caterpillars. Thuricide is only for caterpillars--harmless to other beneficial insects.

Sevin dust can cling to bee's hair and be brought back to the nest and kill the whole nest.

We use both Sevin and Dipel commercially (not Thuricide, but it is BT all the same), the Sevin is always faster acting and more effective usually killing all the worms that ingest it. The Dipel is slower acting and we do see some worms after we spray, even 3 or 4 days after(hard to tell if they are eating or not). This may be due to recent hatching. The Dipel does not bother pests still in the eggs and doesn't appear to last for as long as the Sevin. Lately, however, we are seeing worms that appear to be resistant to the Sevin. Therefore, we have gone to using Dipel after Sevin, around bloom time when bees are present (actually we rent bees so we would be in big trouble if we were to harm them). There is no limit on the number of times it may be used, although it is much more expensive, which might not be a factor in home gatdening.

Dipel: http://extoxnet.orst.edu/pips/bacillus.htm

Here is a link that might be useful: Sevin (carbaryl)

Yes, collars made from toilet paper rolls or paper towel rolls work. I've use those for decades and never lost a plant. Sprinkling Sevin dust on the soil surface also works to control cutworms.