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| This happens to all my tomato plants every year---no matter what variety. Sometimes, a little more severe and quicker than other. I rotate my crops judiciously and have even tried solarizing the soil. I've tried supposed resistant varieties like early girl(VFF). There's gotta be a somewhat cost effective solution, no???
Short of removing and replacing the soil, are there any solutions to minimizing soil-borne illnesses? Can I try to overpopulate the bad microbes with good microbes (i,e., tons of compost and compost teas? I read recently that horseradish root grown and then tilled into the soil might help(research at Penn State, I believe). So, I'm asking the "experts" here on gardenweb-- Help! Here's some pics of my brandywines--- |
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| Another. |
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| Last one! If the problem just kept itself to the lower/older leaves, I wouldn't be so concerned. But it just creeps up the plants as the season goes along. I should be harvesting well into november/december, but the condition gets so bad that I end up having to pull the plants way too early in my opinion. |
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| Is this a dead subtopic? Why no answers on my post? Should I just post in the "tomato" forum? |
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- Posted by dickiefickle 5B Dousman,Wi. (My Page) on Sun, Jun 17, 12 at 3:35
| First off and easily fixed . Keep your leaves out of the soil and mulch so when watering the soil borne pathogens are not splashed on the leaves Trim off the first 8 inches of leaves and dont splash water on the leaves from the soil |
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| Dickie: I do do that and have done that. I know there are some leaves close to the ground in the photos, and those got trimmed yesterday before I treated the plants with some neem oil. But that doesn't explain the yellowing 2 feet off the ground. Firstly, there's 2-3 inches of mulch on top of the supposed tainted soil. Secondly, all watering is done at ground level with a slow deep soak--no splashing. Thirdly, I live in Southern California-- no rain in summer, so no splashing. It's very frustrating because I DO try to do all the right things-- rotating crops, heavy composting and teas, mulching, no overhead watering, fungicides such as neem oil and baking soda. BTW, can you name the affliction in the photos? Blight? fusarium? TSWV? etc??? It would possibly make shopping for varieties that are disease resistant if I knew the name of the disease. Thanks Kevin |
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| Do the yellow leaves then get brown and crispy? If so, it could be tomato russet mites. I live in San Diego and had russet mite troubles until I started spraying or dusting with dulfur. |
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| socalgal: Yes. First chlorosis, then bronzing, then brown and crispy from the bottom up as the season progresses. I just got back from a 10 day leave and the condition has worsened. If I can get ahold of a camera again, I'll post another pic. Spraying and dusting in Sulfur, not dulfur, right? I've never seen just plain sulfur in Lowe's or Home Depot. Maybe spraying with epsom salts? WHere should I look for it? Armstrong's? Thanks. Kevin |
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| socalgal: Here's a couple more pics. Notice the browning on the leaves that you may be speaking of |
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| And another. |
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| Yes, I meant sulfur. Armstong might have it, if not, Walter Andersen's. Make sure you get the sulfur for dusting, NOT soil sulfur. |
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| Thanks socalgal. Hopefully it isn't too late. Kevin |
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