Continue spraying on a regular basis with the Ortho.

Looks like bacterial speck. Go to the Tomato Problem Solver thread (middle of this page) and you will find a wealth of info and picutres of your problem.

Gary

Gary
I think that is the same thread that Carolyn mentioned to check out, which I did but it seemed like it looked like alot of those photos. Mostly, like one's of the bacterial problems.That is why I took my own photo.OK,I will continue to spray.Just hope I can get it to stop spreading. Anything else I can do? and what could cause this? It looks like the same problem I have gotten the last 2 years but the other 2 years were rainy and hurricanes wiped out the gardens anyway.John

Unfortunately if it is bacterial in nature Ortho's Gardener's Disease Control would not work. One of things you can use on bacterial leaf spotting is copper.

Looks like alot of things to me. You need to see it close up to distinguish one thing from another. Even trained IPM scouts some times have a hard time telling certain diseases apart in the very early stages. For the commericial grower field test kits are available for some of the diseases.

http://www.agdia.com/immunostrip/

Here is a link that might be useful: bacterial speck control

I am replying to your post with one caveat: I am a first time gardener.

However, when I saw your photo, it looked exactly like my plants. I had taken some leaves off, viewed them with reading glass, i.d. book in hand. I think it is Early Blight.

What I have been doing: I remove the bad leaves, make sure the plants do not "bunch up" so that air can flow and spray with copper every 7 days. So far, the plants are hanging in there and producing fruit.

I also have been doing the aspiring mixture (mentioned on the forum here). Not sure which one is working best but both do seem to do the trick.

In addition to this, I foliar feed 1x per week and keep them watered well. Figured they do not need any more stress.

Good luck.

Ok.I went to wallyworld and they had LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE by Southern AG. Got home and it said to peel label open for directions. i peeled and there was nothing!!I googled it and found out there was also a NEUTRAL COPPER FUNGICIDE. Did I get the wrong one? Only directions they had were what I pasted below.Could not find any info about how soon I could pick veggies after using.I am guessing that this stuff is not too bad for us ;-(
Some of my plants looked like they were wilting at the top this afternoon. I will see how they look tomorrow and also follow julieann's advice and pick off all the bad leaves. I think a couple of these plants are gonna croak.I was thinking of spraying wih the ortho also tomorrow.
Good or bad?
Also, What is Aspiring the mixture?

LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE
CONTAINS: 31.4% Copper Ammonium complex
(8% Metallic Copper Equivalent, 0.784 lbs per gallon)
USE ON: Many Fruits, Vegetables, Turfgrasses (algae control), Live Oak (moss control) and Ornamentals
CONTROLS: Many bacterial and fungal leaf spots, rust, blights. Also controls algae in Turfgrass and moss in live oaks.
RATE: Rates vary greatly depending upon use. See label. Ex. Peaches - 1.5 Tablespoons per gallon, Tomatoes - 2 ozs per 1,000 sq. ft. in 2 gallons of water, Ornamentals - 2 teaspoons per gallon, Moss control- 4.5 ozs per 1,000 sq. ft., Algae control in turfgrass - 1 pint per 1,000 sq. ft. in 5 gallons of water.
APPLICATION: Mix with water and apply as a cover spray.
PACKED:
12 x 8 oz. - #02901
12 x Pt - #02902,
12 x Qt - #02903
4 x Gal. - #02904
* This description is a new formulation. Check label.

IF , and that is a big if, the problem is bacterial that is one type of copper spray to use.

Unfortunately the disease looks quite advanced and no matter what you have it is much more difficult to control when it has spread so much.

But you can always prune off infected leaves and try the copper but follow the label exactly. You don't want to get too much on the soil.

Commercial grower do spray one week with one thing and something else the next week so you can alternate but I am not sure of the exact time schedule--maybe contact the manufacturor.

Farkee, what does it look like to you? A combo of things?
I mixed it 1 oz per gal in my ortho sprayer. I don't think my sprayer ever works well.But anyway, I soaked the plants :-(??
What happens if too much gets into the soil?
How soon can you pick fruit/veggie? It does not say.Is this stuff poison?
Next year i am spraying before I see a yellow leaf for sure.I get the feeling that there is something in my soil that is lying in wait for my tomatoes. I planted them at other end of garden last year but still had this problem.

I just can't tell with pictures. Spots converge and coalesce on so many disease (and deficiencies)--hard to tell what the early symptoms were. Here is a disease key--just click on everything and you begin to see what you need to know to diagnose something. (and this key doesn't even cover everything)

http://ftsg.ifas.ufl.edu/DISMIK.HTM#KeyB

I also like the link below (scroll down)--check out bacterial speck/spot, septoria, early blight. Small spots to start with, maybe bacterial speck/spot. Do you see concentric circles sometimes seen in early blight lesion? One type of powdery mildew produces yellow patches without the powder then the leaves eventually brown and die.

If you started Ortho early (as you said) and sprayed regularly with no results could be bacterial as noted above.

Is there an extension near by that you can run a large sample by (not one leaf)?

Copper persists in the soil so you are not supposed to over apply it and too much can retard plant growth. Again just follow the label.

Good luck with your plants --hope you are still getting fruit despite the problems.

Here is a link that might be useful: Disease photos