Eric,

Daconil works by covering the specific attachment sites for the EB spores on the leaf surface and I don't think the Cu stuff does.

So I'd go ahead and use the Daconil.

Carolyn

Carolyn,

Thanks so very much -- I will do that.

Couple of follow-up questions:

-- When I sprayed the Daconil this morning I took great pains to make sure I also sprayed upside down with my pump-pressure hand sprayer in order to get the undersides of the leaves -- is this indeed necessary? It is surely not easy.

-- Any idea what prospects I have for reasonable control at this point? I think I've caught the EB relatively early -- it was on about half of my 9 plants (spaced 3' by 3) but only about 3 or 4 leaves on each plant at most, and none of the leaves had extensive damage yet. I picked off all the infected leaves. The Massachusetts weather this year has been awful, of course, with all the wet and now the heat wave.

BTW, it was thanks to the links in this forum's tomato problem solver 2 thread that I was able to make a positive ID of the Early Blight. Highly recommend them for anyone not sure which problem they have. You have to do some work but the info is there.

Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Problem Solver 2

Carolyn, I've learned so much from your posts on this forum. I just wanted to thank you publicly for so generously sharing your expertise and passion.

I can't find anything that mentions whether it can infect the lower surface of the leaf, so I can't answer your first question. I have to spray the undersides for mites, though, and I have to say that the long, slightly angled wand on my pump sprayer makes it so much easier than any other method; I come in from either side of the plant and focus on spraying the leaves on the opposite side, as the angle seems better. It is a little awkward, but the angle and the fine mist are worth it.

Your prospects for control are excellent, however, so long as you spray Daconil regularly, particularly after heavy rain.

--Alison