Return to the Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum
| Post a Follow-Up
BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
Posted by jimsocal Los Angeles (My Page) on Wed, Aug 12, 09 at 19:31
Hi, the experts here have identified my photos as being BER. I read the faq and it says once it's taken hold there isn't a whole lot that can be done...
It said sometimes it is recommended to cut off the bad fruit, maybe add powdered milk or egg shells, etc...
So I will try some of that...
But has anyone here had any success with any particular method? What would you recommend I try?
If I can use powdered milk, how about pouring regular milk into the dirt, and if so, how much would be appropriate per plant? I threw out some spoiled milk today; I assume I could have poured that into the plant soil, no?
Anyway, any specific ideas that have worked for you or that you've heard work, would be appreciated. Meanwhile I'll poke around the web.
Thanks. |
Follow-Up Postings:
P.S. RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
Since this may be caused by improper watering, can someone give me some tips on watering?
These plants are on my 2nd floor balcony in Los Angeles and it's been very hot and sunny here for the past month or so, in the 90's most days.
Many of the leaves are drying up and the plants look very bad in addition to having BER, though some parts of the plants look healthy - but other parts look like they're dying because the leaves are drying up. How much should I be watering them? (They're in big 20" wide by maybe 20" high containers. I know bigger containers would be best but this is what we have.) I have been watering them every morning, giving each one maybe a quart or more of water each day. I figured it was too much but since the leaves are drying maybe it's not enough? I'm terrible at figuring out how much water to give plants! Unless the plant is wilting, then I usually know it needs water - but otherwise, sometimes I get confused... |
RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
- Posted by jean001 z8aPortland, OR (My Page) on
Thu, Aug 13, 09 at 1:48
| It was asked "Since this may be caused by improper watering, can someone give me some tips on watering? " Maintain evenly moist soil or potting mix. |
RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - more
| | |
- Posted by jean001 z8aPortland, OR (My Page) on
Thu, Aug 13, 09 at 1:49
| It was asked "If I can use powdered milk, how about pouring regular milk into the dirt..." The calcium you add now won't be available for a while. Milk is wasted effort. As said above, "Maintain evenly moist soil or potting mix." That's the key. |
RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
its said pruned plant are usually more likely to get Ber than unpruned
hope the above link can help |
Here is a link that might be useful: Blossom-End-Rot-of-Tomato
RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
| So am I correct in thinking that using Schultz 10-15-10 plant food daily or every other day was probably what caused this to happen where it had not happened in previous years? Too much nitrogen in that fertilizer? |
RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
| Plants are not like you, must be feed every day, but more like a snake that must be feed about once a month or so. And, the answer to your Q is: it was a major contributing factor. |
RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
| Thanks petzold6596 , that's what I thought! WE had a lousy crop this year, between the BER and white flies yet again! Though this time the white flies seemed to mostly like one plant more than the others... By the way, I put calcium tablets (at first I put rolaids then later actual calcium vitamin tabs) into the watering can for our plants, and that did seem to clear up MOST of the BER, in spite of my reading it may not or would not work. |
RE: BER - Blossom End Rot - any ideas?
| | |
| jimsocal - many years ago (40+) when I grew some tomatoes in big pots I had the same problem - back then I used super soil - which doesn't drain well -- main causes are like low calcium levels in the soil, drought stress, excessive soil moisture, and/or fluctuations due to rain or overwatering . These conditions reduce the uptake and movement of calcium into the plant, or rapid, vegetative growth due to excessive nitrogen fertilization Adequate preparation of the prior to planting is the key to preventing BER. Insure adequately draining by adding needed ammendments, maintain the soil pH around 6.5 - a pH out of this range limits the uptake of calcium. Lime (unless the soil is already alkaline), composted manures or bone meal will supply calcium but take time to work so must be applied prior to planting. When I pot now in areas where nematodes are I use pro-mix bx with biofungicide add some extra pumice, some Garden and Bloom harvest supreme mix - add a little chelated calcium, worm poop, dr earth veggie fertilizer and white pumice and vermiculite at transplant time Though once you have BER just pick off the bad maters and the plant usually will produce tomatoes that are free of BER on later forming tomatoes DON'T OVER WATER - this can stress the plant and interfere with calcium uptake I just water once a week or let my plants tell me when to water - in the AM if the branches are drooping water otherwise leave be - consistency is the key - this will also help with cracking |
Post a Follow-Up
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Tomato Pests & Diseases Forum
|
|
|
