Greg: If convenient , just bring the saw back to the repairs shop . Obviously they missed something , if you tinker with it they will point the finger at you . If the repairs were a yr ago that's something different and I could advise differently . You are correct with your idle and low and high speed jet designations !

I know I already thanked you ewalk, but thanks again! I plan on taking your advice, but I'd like to get to know this chainsaw better for future sake so I don't have to take it in every time. I really think it's probably something simple like those adjustments, but I don't want to tinker with it and null any repairs that they should do. Not every repair shop will be honest in telling you what they did to fix the problem. They might make an adjustmen on those jets and tell me it's something entirely different. I love this chainsaw though and I love hearing all the high regards to such chainsaws as the Dolmar. When I read some about it's history, well I just found it all interesting. I really appreciate all the help that people offer people in these forums as well, this is a great forum!

The shop likely set it up with no load. Try turning the low speed screw, the one nearest the engine, about 1/8 turn and see if it picks up without hesitation. If it flattens out and bogs down under load, do the same thing with the hi speed screw next to it.

Thank you canguy, I'll try that. It's not like I can't turn the screw back before taking it back to the shop. Besides you're most likely right and I won't need to take it back if it's that simple. The shop is about 20 miles away one way and there is no sense in taking it if all it needs is an adjustment. Thanks again for your help.

I called the shop, they said bring it in, then my mom got on the phone with them and asked if there would be a charge they said yes, she said well there shouldn't be and they said well for all we know maybe you left gas in it over night and it ate something up inside! That's when I was certain this place is some sort of scam shop. They told my mother that even just a few drops of gas left in it over night can mess it up, I said that's a bunch of bull! We won't be taking it back there. So I took canguy's suggestion and made those adjustments and it seemed to make a difference. I also sharpened the blade, but it still seemed to end up trying to bog down after cutting for a few minutes, so I kept tinkering with those adjustments, I ended up going much more than an 1/8 turn and it just died so I started trying the other way and still haven't got it quite right. I read a little here in one guys problems with his chainsaw and some of the replies referred to the tension spring or screw or something like that, could that be part of the problem with mine as well? I'm not giving up on this chainsaw I know it's a decent chainsaw. Another thing when I've let it sit awhile and then start it up it will start all over, what I mean is it will cut a few things down fine for maybe 3 or 4 minutes or so then it starts bogging down again. I've got chain oil in it and it's got plenty of gas. And yeah I mixed one bottle of gas mix with one gallon of gas, the smaller bottles that are meant for one per gallon. So there's you some more info, if you have any more ideas I'd greatly appreciate it or if anyone else has any ideas. Thanks!

I'm going to make sure the fuel filter isn't bad now, originally I thought that shop might have replaced it when they did their carb repair, but now that I know more about them I doubt they went the extra mile. So I'll get back with you once I've checked that.

Okay the fuel filter looks like it's actually the original from when this chainsaw was manufactured! LOL So I'm going to buy a new one even though I could blow air through it it was kind of tough to do so and while I'm at it I'm going to get a new fuel line. The the fuel line that's on it is made with a very soft rubber with kind of a ribbed exterior. I think if they use rubber as sparingly as they do their trees, that might explain why the fuel line is made with such soft rubber and ribbed. I believe it's ribbed to help keep that soft rubber from collapsing from suction. So anyway I'm going to give that a shot as soon as I can. Tell me what you think and if someone could explain the that tension system that would be nice too (not the screw that tightens the chain, I believe what this tension spring or screw adjustment involves is the clutch in some way and like I said before I really don't know that much about it yet) and thanks again for all the help!

Well Greg looks like you have a Deadbeat Dealer no biggy lots of them around ! So here is the Deal. Dolamar is a World Class Saw . Have never worked one other than set the idle. (Spring Tension screw) adjustment from the throttle lever. Never the less the Basics are the same , ensure you have fresh fuel mixed within Manufacturers Specs (40-1 / 50-1) Normally recently. Then check the fuel filter and gas lines for dirt or leaks or cracks . Next remove the high & low speed jets and examine the needles for any bent (damaged) or wear. If they appear ok then spray some carb cleaner into both jets and then replace the jets carefully (do not over tighten) just snug until they seat. Then turn them out 1/1/4 turns . This should get you in the Ball Park . Attempt to restart the saw , you may need to readjust the High speed another 1/4 turn out approx 1-1/2 out . The Low speed adjustment once warm also may require tweaking to assure a smooth throttle response without hesitation. The final Idle Speed adjustment is dependant upon you personal preference. I normally set idle for just about when the chain begins to rotate . Just for good measure a carb cleaner additive such as Lucas Top End Conditioner or equivalent will assist with ensuring final carbon and varnish removal within the Carburetor and Piston and Rings and Combustion Chamber . Should this not cure your issues then the problem may well require a carb kit or Ignition Module Evaluation. Good Luck Bro , sorry to hear about your Lame Dealer ! ... Let us now how you make out .. T

Ewalk, you've been very helpful, thank you so much! I'll try this out and let you know how it goes.

One thought is that the chain might be dull. Are you throwing chips and not sawdust? The chips should be little squares of wood and not little granules. The closer you get to kosher salt type cuttings, the duller your chain is. Also after it starts to bog down is your bar hot, maybe smoking? Can you touch and hold the bar and chain with your bare hand? If not these are indications of a dull chain and or poor oiling (chain and bar oiling). I assume you are filling both tanks (gas/oil mix AND chain/bar oil). Always fill both when filling. Your saw should empty both tanks at about the same rate. I don't think I have ever seen a saw empty the bar oil before the gas but it is not an impossibility. If too little bar oil is being used that is an indication of a prob in the oiling path.

I only recommend these checks as they are typically relatively easy to fix.

Make sure your chain is tensioned properly. Their should be a flat head screw on the bar cover (the cover you tighten down to hold the bar on). Your manual will tell you how to properly tension. There is definitely too tight an too loose. I'll trust that the manual covers that rather than trying to explain.

If you can't get it fixed through all of the suggestions here, I hope you can find a local dealer or maybe even a friend or neighbor that can help you.

Make sure you are cutting safe out there. Get some PPE if you can (chaps, helmet, hearing and eye protection).

Best of luck getting er fixed and getting back to cutting!

Mas / Kent : Great Points as usual Mas , are you thinking that perhaps the chain is binding on the bar due to over tension or lack of oil , causing the saw to load up ? Kent if so the bar will indicate this as Mas has advised with "Hot" Spots . As for chain tension my rule of thumb if you have a Roller Tip is lift the saw at mid-bar via the chain there should be very little deflection 1/8 to 3/16 " when the saw body begins to lift . On a solid bar a little more deflection approx 3/16 to 1/4 " the root of the teeth should not be exposed more than 3/4 other wise the bar groove will be damaged . As far as the Kick Back Brake I assume you are familiar with this Safety feature and that it is not partially on causing load on the saw ? Anyhow just a thought since Mas is quite thorough within his expertise ! I really do not understand your question as to the Tension Spring issue , if your implying the clutch I would advise not to attempt this yourself unless your are quite knowledgeable within this form of adjustment , since a new clutch can be quite expensive . Well off to the Garage for me have a Rad to replace in the Ole 4/4 ...have a Great Day Guys .. T .

You're mostly right ewalk about the bar and chain. You brought up a point that I forgot to mention :). Besides a dull chain, poor oiling and tension, you can also have a bar or chain that is damaged and will cause problems. With heat build up and damage to the bar and chain. In most cases, you would expect binding to show up early in the cut. But if the binding is on the border, the buildup of heat over 5-10 minutes can make it worse. Often you will see the chain start to loosen as heat builds up. Eventually you will see some smoke and can smell the smoldering bar oil.

Good explanation of how to properly tension. It is definitely not a one rule operation. I can only add that a new chain should be checked often for proper tension. The loosen up in the first few minutes of cutting. If you don't stop to retension, they can jump off the rails and ruin a good chain and maybe sprocket, even clutch. I imagine it could even come back and hit the operator.

So far it does not sound like a clutch problem. If he is getting good cutting in the first few minutes, something is changing along the way. The chain/bar/oil combo is simplest. The engine parts get more involved and expensive (seals, boots, carb, etc).

I bought a solid nose bar a few years ago on special. I did not know better but I don't think I would buy one again. They are supposedly more durable, but the chain definitely did not run smooth. I did not have gauges to check the spacing on the rails and purchased another bar. The solid nose bar is still sitting.

Oh and please do not grab your bar and chain at any time with the saw running. Chain brakes are fairly safe but they are only a band the wraps the clutch. The brake can fail. Always turn off your saw before touching the bar or chain. I neglected to say so in my above post.

You guys are great! I don't think that it's any complications with the chain running through the bar, it runs along pretty smooth. I really think it's the fuel filter, but I've noticed the chain being a little loose maybe to loose. If the chain is properly tightened the teeth shouldn't pull back should they? Also I messed up, the other day when I cleaned around the clutch and sprocket, when I put the cover back on, tightened the chain and went to tighten the bolts, I tightened one too tight and stripped the threads so now I have a new problem. Do they sell those double ended bolts with one end a size bigger? I did put quite a bit of torque on it, but I didn't think I was putting that much. I took the bolt out a few minutes ago and it looks like someone had stripped half of it some time ago and I stripped the rest of it. I'm just guessing that because the the threads from the hole were still on the bolt and they looked like they were about half the length. In the sides of the hole close to the outside of it was metal dust and it looked like something that was an older ware on it, so maybe it's not totally my bad I don't know. I need to find a way to fix it though. This is pretty much the way I seem to learn better though....trial and error! lol Don't worry masiman, I'm not the smartest guy when it comes to this stuff, but I'm not going to get near that chain with it running brake or no brake. Thanks for all your help! I'm still tinkering with it, but there is no place open till Monday so I won't be able to do anything to it till then. I was going to rob the fuel filter off my Poulen Pro, but when I discovered what I had done to the bolt I decided I might as well wait till the store opens now. It's been great hearing from everybody, I'll keep you informed. Thanks again!

I agree Mas with the Chain Stretch issues , same as with motorcycles most stretch during break in with the 1st few hundred miles and again proper lubrication cannot be understated lol. Great points within the Saw Safety & PPE . Greg sorry to here above the chain tension-er bar stud issue . Happens all to often , i suppose you could have a helicoil insert fitted by your dealer , or you may wish to simply replace the stripped stud with a new unit and carefully reinsert with a little JB Weld or Locite Instant Metal. Just retorque in the future with 1/2" / 9/16" combination wrenches just tight not Gorilla Tight lol . P.S. I almost ran into the same issue with the Old Diesel Rad change-out yesterday , while reinstalling the (Plastic) purge cock on the bottom reservoir I over tightened and split the internal o-ring . Haste makes waste , fortunately I had a spare in my o-ring kit. When the Hell did they start installing plastic from the former brass / bronze units ? Anyhow hope all goes well with your trouble shooting be patient sometimes errors are not as cheap as a o-ring !

I'm just waiting for the JB weld to dry now. I've still got to get an new fuel filter though, I'll get it tomorrow and let you know how things go.

JB weld worked fine and I'm back to tinkering around with the bogging problem. I haven't got a new filter yet, I'll try to do that tomorrow. I'm also going to try a new mix of gas and gas mix.

Good to hear Greg , keep us posted ! :)