Either would probably work, since the main objective is to ensure that the valve being set is fully closed. The 1/4" past TDC is the manufacturers recommended method.

First you remove the valve cover. Then remove the spark plug. Now turn the flywheel clockwise, by hand, and observe the movement of the valves to determine which one is intake and which is exhaust. (usually the bottom is the intake but make sure). When the piston is moving up on the compression stroke, place the rubber end of a pencil in the cylinder hole onto the piston and observe when the piston is at top dead center. Now make a mark on the pencil and another mark 1/4" above it. This is just to measure the movement of the piston inside. Now turn the flywheel so that the piston is 1/4inch past top dead center (roughly. You are just ensuring that both valves are fully closed).

Now I like to measure the valve lash before and after adjustment, so do that now. If either needs adjustment, take a torx screw driver and loosen the lock on the hex nut. I think a 10mm wrench turns the hex nut. Once the lock is off, place a 0.004" feeler guage into the intake's valve lash and turn the 10mm wrench until the valve is very snug against the 0.004" feeler guage. Jiggle the rocker arm if you have to. Once set, tighten the torx screw to about 4 ft/lbs. Do this for both valves (although the intake is where the compression release will be and remember the exhaust spec. is 0.006") and then replace the valve cover.

Once the valve lashes are set, rotate the flywheel again and keep a very close eye on the intake valve. What you should see is that as the motor moves onto the compression stroke, the intake valve will close fully. As you keep rotating the flywheel you should see a very small bump in that valve. If you do, then you know your compression release is working and with the valve lash set, she should start up just fine.

Put the spark plug back in and try it again.

thank you very much. this is very clear. I'm feeling kind of idiotic. I busted the torx wrench off in the keeper. I think I have to get a new rocker nut, and I managed to destroy the valve cover gasket. My parts guy is loving me!

HELP!! I readjusted the valves per instructions. I put the plug back in and hit the starter (plug wire off and valve cover off) I spun like a top. Oh yeah, elation! I was quite pleased with myself. I hit the starter again just to make sure. Still turned over beautifully. I put the valve cover back on, put the plug wire on and hit the starter. Again, spun great and the engine fired and started up. I let it run for less than a minute and shut it off. Thrilled with my success I started it up again. This time it dragged for a moment but then fired and ran. Wondering why it stumbled I thought, ok no big deal. HIt the starter again and UGH, back to not turning over. I tried turning the flywheel by hand and it is very tight at the compression stroke. It must have slipped out of adjustment, but why? Anybody had this experience or have a helpful thought? I'm so frustrated. Any help greatly appreciated. thanks

Check that the Rocker arm stud is tight, 85 inch lbs., check for crack in rocker arm especially thru the pivot point, Otherwise, recheck your setting and be sure you lock the adjustment properly.

Walt Conner

Thanks Walt. I pulled the valve cover off and re-checked the adjustment. Clearances seem good. Battery is new but was at 70%. I charged it and for the moment, she is spinning like a top, fired right up. I noticed I had a motor mount bolt missing. I put a bolt in and fixed that. I think I may be good. I didn't check the studs but if I have more issues, that is a great suggestion. Thank you everyone

The motor mount bolts ground the block to the frame. IF they are loose, you have a bad ground circuit. That could result in the solenoid just clicking.

Interesting Bill. True, and I hadn't considered that. Had three bolts down tight, but the motor sure wanted to jump a bit even missing just one! I think I fixed her! I'm super happy and thanks to all. I need to get geared up. my '54 Farmall Super H is getting overhauled this winter