If the transmission in your tractor had only gears, the oil would function as a lubricant only. Not having enough oil in the transmission case would result in worn bearings, and worn gears, eventually. But, the unit would work OK until it finally wore out. But you have a tractor with a "hydro-static" transmission. That means the oil is both a lubricant, and also a source of power, in much the same sense that the wind contains power that is extracted by a windmill. For some reason, there is not enough oil present to provide power when the tractor is moving up a steep grade, as you describe. Adding oil might help, but you should be aware that there are bearings in the transmission that will eventually run dry, if you spend enough time on a 35% grade. If I were in your situation, I would keep the tractor off the 35% grade, and use it on level ground and more gentle grades only. Transmissions are too expensive to replace every other year. It might be possible to modify your transmsission with an external oil supply, and an external pump, so that it would handle the gradient in your yard. I doubt that Husqvarna will volunteer to engineer such a modification.

I'm having the exact same problems with my HusqvarnaLGT2654. It will not mow on any gradient when it gets warm. I've changed the belt and purged the transmission as they directed in the owner's manual. Neither option seemed to work. If this tractor can't pull a hill then it is basically worthless. It's very discouraging that a company represntative gives little if any help when contacted. If this problem is not rectified by the company it will be the last Husqvarna product I purchase.

How old is this tractor/how many hours on the clock?
Whether the outdoor power products industry agrees or not, the oil in the hydrostatic transmission needs to be changed at least once every three years, or about 150 hours.
On this forum, there have been countless cases where an owner was at wit's end over the seeming complete failure of a hydrostatic drive transaxle.................and changing the hydro oil and filter magically brought the thing back to life.
And let me add: No point in beating on Husqvarna.....or Sears.....or any other brand name, because they ALL use hydrostats made by just a few transmission OEMs and ALL hydrostatic transmissions will act the same way when the oil inside wears out.

You can use the Search feature at the bottom of the forum opening page to find a multitude of threads regarding changing of the hydro oil.

Though you may hear from some folks (like the manufacturer of the tractor) that the oil is permanent and never needs changing, that is about as far from the truth as it can be.

My experience is similar to Bart's with my one year old 2654. Had Cub Cadet for 10 years and was having worn and broken parts too often near the end of my use. Decided it was time for new tractor with bigger deck for my larger yard Use my tractor year round for various use and is very helpful. But now it will not climb my at least 35' hill to mow. My former Cub Cadet never had any problems performing that task as I am using this tractor as before. My problems with CC was hard to start, seats worn out early, would not mow grass on highest setting without breaking belt, but never had problems with transmission mowing same hill and pulling trailer with load. I got "sucked" into price of tractor and military discount at Lowe's I want my CC back, since I can't find any help with this orange nightmare.

Larry

A few things.

Have you ever adjusted the directional linkage?

Have you ever check the drive belt tension once it gets warmed up?

Have you ever purged the system of air?

20W50 is the oil to use.

Bart,

It sounds like you bought the wrong tool for the job. Your Husqvarna LGT2654 is a riding mower intended to mow flat, small lawns. Asking a rider to mow up a 30-35 degree incline is far exceeding the design and intended use.

Removing the transaxle and draining and refilling the trans with the correct fresh oil might treat the symptom but it will not cure the disease.

And stay away from the moron who suggested you "...remove the breather cap, fill the hydro to the top". All that will do is puke oil all over everything from the breather cap.

You really need to honestly evaluate your needs and get a machine that meets or slightly exceeds those needs.

I suggest you look around for professional lawn and garden dealers and go pick their brains. Stay away from hardware stores who sell and service riding mowers.

My problem is exactly the same as the above and I understand that this is a unanimous problem that consumers are having with this product. When I purchased the mower, I was concerned about the absence of hydraulic fluid drain and filler plugs; however, I took a chance. At ninety hours of normal use, the transmission will not reverse if there is ANY restriction and then, very slowly. It has no real power in forward mode either. This problem was obviously found in testing but Husq elected to market the item anyway, likely because their transmission supplier was allowed to dupe them. The choice? Pass the duping on to the consumer. How can we fix this? Where would be a practical and safe spot to tap drain and filler plugs? It makes me furious when a mfgr does this. They should be hit with a class action suit, just to get their attention.

***"They should be hit with a class action suit, just to get their attention."***
To initiate a class action lawsuit, first you must get a "class" of consumers together on a single "platform" seeking some form of restitution.
You can be the person to set this process into motion, if you want to.
An alternative way to rectify the shortcomings of the design is to have ALL consumers band together for the common cause of requiring that all hydrostatic drive transmissions used in LT. YT, and GT outdoor power applications feature easily accessible drain and refill ports to facilitate periodic maintenance oil changes.
The most convincing way for a group of consumers to make a point is to REFUSE TO BUY a product that they are not satisfied with. Simply DO NOT BUY it.

The truth is that you would have very little success in trying to get the average consumer to climb on either platform with you.
And should there ever be any legislation requiring that to happen, I feel the OEMs would just up the price of each copy by about $300, or they would cheap out on something else.....just to get our attention. :^(

Considering the broad application of the TT K46 over the years I'd like to have $1 for every owner of an LT with a K46 that has not had any problem at all.

As rampant as some say the complaints are all over the internet I'd wager that the posts we read are from an insignificant of K46 owners, but that doesn't make a trans failure any less painful for them. I'm reminded of something I was told when I was very young... 'some people can break an anvil with a rubber hammer'.

While I agree that all transaxles should come with drain plugs we have to remember that we get what we ask for. In their never ending zeal to provide the best (perceived) value at the lowest price, as the market demands, when manufacturers can save $.10 per unit over a sizable production run they will do it.

Now you've done it. According to Justalurkeryou should be only using a mower with a k46 hydo to cut the grass down hill.

@ James Wright,

I own a JD X500 with a K72 transaxle and mow 2 uneven acres, pull a trailer, and blow snow all
winter. A neighbor down the road has a JD X300, pretty much identical to
my X500 except it has a K46. He mows 2 uneven acres, pulls a trailer, and blows snow all
winter with the same model blower I the one I have. Both our JDs are 5+ years old
and neither one has been out of service for a single minute. Did he
buy the right tool for the job and I overbought OR did I buy the right
tool for the job and he's really lucky cause he has the only K46 that
has not failed?

The posts we don't read from the 100,000 or so owners of ALL the brands of L&G riders that are K46 equipped that have no problems indicate that you're WRONG, Wright.

The fact that manufacturers continue to use the K46 and make a profit on those products indicate that your WRONG, Wright.

The Husqvarna LGT2654 is NOT a garden tractor and it should not be labeled as such by Husqvarna. It is a lawn tractor. The defining aspect of a rider that defines it as a GT and not an LT is a ground engaging transmission, not a model number or product description. Husqvarna makes real GTs with 1" axles and ground engaging rated transaxles BUT they aren't priced at $2399.

With detailed info and specifications at our fingertips and knowledgeable people like you on these forums potential customers should research their purchase thoroughly to make sure they're buying the tool they need to do the job rather than under buying and blaming the tool after the fact although misrepresenting the LGT 2654 as a GTby the manufacturer was dubious to say the least.

I have the very same mower and started having the very same problem. Now when my mower gets hot it won't pull at all. And I have one and a quarter acre lot all level flat ground no Hills and it still will not pull and yes I have put a brand new drive belt and deck belt in it. Some one pleas give me the fix to this. No bills and all flat leave ground and it won't move with new belts. Help pleas..

Dale - if your tranny is the "factory sealed" type, then you will need to remove same from machine, turn upside down, drain all old old oil out and refill with fresh 20w-50 oil. Do a search of this site for similar problems/fixes.

I have a similar problem, but not necessarily when its hot. It is a Huskie with a Tuff Torq k46 BT with a reservoir. 220 hours on it. It acts like it is just low in oil. When I go over the small hump next to my gutter drain and it will almost stop. Then when I get it back on fairly level ground it is fine after a few seconds. Sometimes that little hump doesn't affect it, usually if I am going faster when I cross it.

The reservoir has a breather cap, couldn't I just take off that cap and add oil?

I don't want to removed the whole thing if not necessary. I have big hands and severe arthritis so I'm not sure I can get in there to take every thing loose.

wertach - feel yer pain.

usually when the oil gets old, it loses it "pumping" ability, so needs a full changeout. OTOH, if yer tranny is just low, might try adding a bit of same oil that's in there now while the tranny is warm to avoid overfilling.... have you noticed any leaks/weeps around the tranny area?

I broke down and took it out yesterday. Boy am I sore, bruised, and cut up today!

It was about 1 1/4" below the lip, it is supposed to be 3/4 to 1" below. A little low.

The oil looked good and smelled fine. There was some oil around the vent so I'm thinking it may be foaming.

I am going to drill and tap a drain hole and fill hole today, so that I don't have to take it out again. I hope this fixes it!

For anyone's info, I didn't have to take off the fan and pulley to get the plug out. Also the vent would be fine to use for adding oil, if you can get it out.

be mighty careful putting in that drain hole/plug... last thing you want is metal chips floating around inside that hydro. would at least flush it good and install plug equipped with a magnet to catch any errant flakes... good luck.

If you want to add drains - here is Tuff Torq's write up for a K46

https://www.tufftorqservices.com/EnvEEdefault/FlatHTML/TechInfo/ttcoil/pdfs/K46%20Drain%20Port%20Location.pdf

I didn't have to worry about metal chips. The bottom casing was separated from the trans axle, easy to clean. The fill plug was a little more challenging, but easy. I just stuffed paper rags above the hole and draped some down and out of the casing, with it siting upright, so that they would drop out and not sling around. I put double sided tape where the hole would be so that I could drill and tap it trough the tape and rag.

It's a trick that I use at work often, I have to drill and tap holes all of the time on equipment at work. I'm an electrician and I have to drill and tap electrical boxes that I can't turn the power off of all of the time. A shaving dropping on a 480v circuit is not fun, or so I have heard! I haven't had that experience, because I'm careful!

leafeanator, I saw the bosses in the casing and used them. Thanks for the link though!

good moves, wertach.... keep us posted on how machine behaves after surgery.

I forgot to post the results! Sorry! After I got it back together, I think it pulls better than it did new! It is also faster, I think, maybe the synthetic oil? It will almost snap your neck now!

One small thing kind of worries me though, I lost a part..... Even though I was very careful to keep my parts together, I lost a spacer. On the gear assembly that goes between the drive to the axles. I must have dropped it and it rolled off to wherever!

I tried to find a new one without success. I rummaged through some old mower parts that Dad had in the barn. I found a hardened washer that was 3 thousands of an inch less thick, and the hole was 15 thousands of an inch bigger than the one for the other side. Since the other ones hole was 20 thousands of an inch bigger than the shaft, I hoped it would be OK and put it in.

I plan to change the oil after about 20 hours to check for shavings or anything.

Thanks to all for your help!

Keep showing us the way, son !! :)

have a husky 2654, before had craftsman and cub cadet. this tractor will stop when coming to any type of grade. i will never buy this make again if this problem is not fixable. it is stupid to build a tractor that won't go up grades, any other tractor does!

Husky is Junk !

I also have an LGT2654 Husqvarna Hydrostatic drive lawn tractor (purchased from Lowes). The machine always loses power within a couple minutes every time I try to mow any incline whatsoever. After 11 years I finally got fed up enough to remove the entire rear axle to check/change the drive fluid. IT WAS HALF EMPTY!!! I dumped the old oil into some 1qt containers and found that it only had 1.5 quarts. When I refilled i using 20-w50 synthetic motor oil (recommended) it took 2.5qts. When I fired it up, it actually worked and started driving up hills for the first time ever. I think my problems with this thing are now SOLVED!

Great call!

Update 2 years later. It will still snap your neck back. I've been pulling heavy equipment even!

Wertec , You missed your calling u should be working @ Husqvarna Inc . Good Job Cudo,s Bud on the Quality Control insight !

Steep incline can cause the oil to run back away from the pump and cause a loss of power.. YES you can add oil through the breather. It is actually easier if it has a tube. NO you DO NOT want to fill it to the top.. Add maybe 1/4 cup at a time until you have full power then add another 1/4 cup and no more..

Tough Torq K46 comes from the factory with SAE 5W50 Synthetic Oil part #168T2099500. Which is nothing more than a 5W50 engine oil.. So basically any weight synthetic gasoline engine oil will work in them.

Thank goodness for this thread.

Facts: after month of checking/changing fluids, belts, springs, etc. my LGT2554 continued to decrease in performance. Yesterday, after reading this thread I replaced the trans fluid with 20w50 and it worked! I ran the mower for about an hour after the fluid was replaced with no loss of power. I do agree, as is commented herein several times, that the transmission is a bad product in that the fluids DEFINITELY need to be replaced and there is just no easy way.

My existing fluid was very black, not the trans housing was full to the top. The magnet did have a fair amount of shavings on it(mower has 200 hours, my problems started to occur around 170). Are the shaving something to be concerned about/are the gears stripping?

Thanks for the help everyone - replace your trans fluid, period.

Great to here HU-1882070 . As for the shaving yes they could migrate into a bad location . I would remove the magnet if possible or convenient a few hrs of run time again to verify . Then top unit up . Black fluid indicates the oil had gotten hot and began to breakdown . The shaving indicate the oil lost it's lubricity and wear occurred or lacked sufficient level ( low) as you indicated . These units today usually get 500 hrs life cycle , so you could expect some life remaining . The hydro pump can be damaged also due to air entrainment (cavitation) when the oil breaks down worse case scenario , thus the importance to drain and replenish with the new Synthetic Grade oils . Since you'rs is running good after an hr would indicate no permanent damage beyond spec has occurred .

Thanks 2 all of u for fantastic help. I have same LGT2654 trans problem & will try changing oil. One thing more FYI is that the drivebelt setup stinks too. Cooling fan on trans only turns when driving! Belt STOPS when in neutral (coasting or braking downhill). My 1990 Montgomery Wards mower mowed a 1/2 acre steep hill in Maryland for 7 years & 1/2 acre steep hill in Florida for 15 years and a friend is STILL using it & the transaxle oil has never been touched! The drivebelt ALWAYS runs the cooling fan as long as the engine is running.

I am having exactly the same problem. While my husqvarna was still under warranty, the shop where i purchased it replaced the transmission. They have now put a smaller better belt on the drive. It will only mow for a while on flat or nearly flat before it will not go forward. We have been repacing parts and belt on mower deck, so far nothing has helped.

HU-222846593, it took me years to figure it out but my hydrostatic fluid was low and so it would not do inclines. When you top it off you have to turn the wheels and change the angle a few time to let any air bubbles out. Mine is quite a bit better now, I can go up and down our hill about 15 times now. (when I got the machine I could only do about 4).

My 25 year old Wheel Horse has a k61 transaxle, and the the case is kept completely full by a reservoir about 10 inches higher than the axle. The instructions want the reservoir to have at least some oil in it, implying that there is always a small positive pressure on the axle.

Several years ago, my tractor would not back up even a small hill when hot. I took apart the axle and the hydraulic motor was scored. I spent several hours lapping the scored parts to get rid of the scores, and now it has been working great.

So, try the oil change first, but if that doesn't get it going, you may need to dig in or get a replacement. At any rate, moding to improve the ease of oil change is a very good idea.

Well guys... I removed my K46, drained upside down thorougly, refilled with Mobil 1 15w50 and drained again and refilled again. Did all the bleeding procedures. MADE NO DIFFERENCE. Gets hot and stops climbing hill after about 8 times.

Dealer is coming to take it for service Tuesday. Cobb’s Tractor. Good guys. Will diagnose for 1/2 hour labor. Free pickup because I’m only a mile away. Will let you know...

I have the same problem. No power from the trans when it gets hot. The motor runs great, the mower runs great, but the trans is a dog on the uphills.

I am going to do a oil change without removing the transmission, which looks difficult. My model has the gas tank right over the transmission, which makes access difficult. I have a brake bleed tool to pump the oil out of the fill port. I'll pick up some of the 20W50. I also have some Marvel Mystery Oil for hydraulic transmissions that all the good ol' boys down hear swear by. I dunno. I'll start with the 20W50 and see how that works, before I try something more exotic.

Since I can't pump it out completely, I will pump out as much as I can, refill the system, run it for a while, then pump out as much as I can, refill, and call it done. I will let you all know how it goes.

A mower repairman suggested a new drive belt

Just changed oil on my 155c deere. Plug was cracked in the middle, so I used small tire patch to repair it. Has 300 hours on it, just purchased it. Before I changed oil it would not back up a small incline. Now it takes a steep incline to stop it. Big improvement, in forward speed also.

I used Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil 15W-50.

Let us know how it goes john. Wish I had Marvel Mystery Oil tip before I changed mine. I have always poured the mystery in engines, down the throat, in the oil, and in the gas. Good stuff.

I have a 1986 MTD mower, that I got new from Hechinger with variable speed pulley system.It is on its 2rd used engine. The last engine is a 15hp kholer off a worn out craftsman mower sitting in my Dad's shelter for 10 yrs. Poured in fresh gas with sea foam. Fired right up. Gave Mtd another Life. I have cut 1/2 acre or more grass all these years with it. I have purchased 2 other new mowers over the years when the mtd was having engine or other problems. Used for a while, did not like the slow speeds, then sold when I revived the MTD speed demon. First was new craftsman 22hp hydro lawn tractor,in the 90's . Second was 15hp home depot. They were just too slow.

Any way why did I buy a 2006 Deere 155c? It was my wife of 35 yrs who purchased it. She did not like me mowing with an antique mower. I am bitten by shiney green cutter. I miss using my Mtd. Needs electrical adjustments, seat mounting, Blade bearings {never changed them), and other improvements. But it still cuts. Not done with it, just letting it rest.

Shadetree, you are a man similar to me. I've got a 25 year old wheel horse that I keep running because I like it, and the controls fit me. I mow side hills above manual recommendations using "Body English" to keep the upper drive wheel driving. It is easy to slide off the seat and onto the fender with half my butt. I've banged up the plastic hood, so I just tossed it. You can see this beauty in my post of "ugliest mower".

tom

The rear axles or hydrostatic drive on these mowers all have problems! I have the same one ! You can’t check or change the oil! My yard is steep I have to let it cool off for an hour after 20 minutes of use! I drilled a hole in the housing of the rear axle so I can put oil in it because it gets so hot it blows it out the breather on top!! It’s a piece of &@&@$T poor engineering ! I just use 75/90 synthetic because I buy it 5 gallons at a time for my PETERBILT! I’m sure it will quit one of these days and I will buy one with a manual transmission !! Probably a JohnDeere beings Husqvarna can’t build build One that’ll take the Heat!! RJ

Been mowing all summer now and I have not seen the loss of power on inclines. Using 2.5 qts of 20w50 synthetic motor oil has fixed my issues with this tractor’s loss of power on hills.

I purchased a YHT22V46 Husqvarna IN THE SPRING of 2019 very small yard I can stand in my front yard and water the hole front yard standing near my front porch never relocating. Hardly any grade to my yard at all. I used a 14 hp. Lowe's yard machine mower on this same yard and pulled a detacher with it for 16 yrs. Before I bought this junkvarna it is doing the same thing everyone else on here is talking about runs for about 15 min. Then want pull its self everyone be aware. I work in Quality Control for Toyata and I'm telling you there is bad engineering with these mowers.

Hello.

I have a Husqvarna LGT 2654 Kohler engine and have the same problem.On top of that engine almost chocked on lowest RPM settings, on higher doesn't produce power as used to.

After it gets hot will not go up the small hill.

It's 7 years old bought in Lowes with bagger, chain and snow blade.

It sorrow to let go I will try change oil and let you know, Thanks Chris.

I have a husqvarna LGT 2654, has a leak somewhere. Got low on fluid and wouldn't even move, took the cap off the top and filled it up to the top and works fine. If its hydrostatic make sure the case is full

I've had problems with mine since it was new. Have to work on it about every 4 hours of use. Now it stalls any time is on any incline even very slight ones. Called the manufacturer and they made promises that the dealership laughed at and said that Husqvarna always makes promises that they won't agree to one the work was done. I've seriously been dealing with this since the mower had 7 hours of use.

I am dealing with the same situation about LGT 2654 Hydrostatic its been doing the I don't want to go up any slope after 10 minutes of running , so I have drilled a hole in the bottom of the case and drained the oil will tap it and put a drain plug in and new 50W oil. Wish me luck I have been pulling my 30 year old Toro wheelhorse Garden Tractor out to do the mowing with that. Guess you get what you pay for. Husqvarna should be ashamed of themselves

I have a 2654 with about 500 hours, It set for a few years because I did not need it. This Fall I needed to use it, so I changed the oil, filter, installed new plugs, air filter. It started right up, but when I slowly release the clutch, it jumps forward or the same in reverse. I cannot let the clutch up slowly enough to keep it from jumping or jerking forward. Runs great, and pulls hills just fine.

Do you have any suggestions on the clutch release problem ?