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lithnights

Leyland vs. Green Giant vs. White Pine need screening advice

lithnights
14 years ago

Hello all,

I am new to this site but I love it! Anyway, my neighbor behind me is building a huge 3 car garage that is 10 feet from my property line. It is thus far at least 12 feet high and the roof will probably add another 6 feet or so. It is what I look at from my the back of my house and patio and thus I want to screen it. I am attaching a link that hopefully will show a picture of my view.

I have read hundreds of posts thus far on this site regarding leylands, thuja green giants, white pines, excelsa cypress etc. but I wanted to present my unique situation (how much coverage, location, timeframe etc.) and get feedback.

I really want something fast growing which has led me to the trees above. Leylands look pretty (from pics) but also scare me (from some of the pics you all have posted!). Thuja green giant seem to be a good choice and I haven't seen any real drawbacks except they won't grow as fast as Leyland? White pine was another fast grower I've seen but I'm not as crazy about the pyramid shape (less coverage up top which is where I need it.) Excelsa Cypress was something I saw but I don't really know much about it.

I will run the trees at least 30 feet wide along the property line to cover the garage from various angles but will likely want to run them another 30 feet to the left along the fence to cover up their house and backyard and pool area. I am willing to pay for at least 6 footers (maybe more) since the view is so bad. So based on the fact that I want fast screenage at least 18 feet tall, I live in PA zone 6, and I don't care what they look like 20 years from now, what would be your suggestion? Thanks!!

{{gwi:373400}}

Comments (29)

  • lithnights
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Deer..I can all but guarantee that deer will not be a problem. I've lived here 6 years and have never seen one. My neighbor has been here 20 years and has never seen one. We are totally developed for miles around.

    Fence..looking at the fence is not a huge deal b/c they/we will be replacing it not long after the garage is done. At least it should soon be a "nicer looking" fence.

    But based on what you say, and based on my responses, it looks like one vote for thujas? Should I expect 3 ft a year where I am (zone 6) and they will be in FULL SUN (something I forgot to mention in my original post).

    Thanks!

  • cascadians
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You might want to consider a mixed bed interweaving of several types of evergreens. It will be more interesting and then if one type gets a disease you won't lose all the screening.

    I like leylands, and have several types of cultivars. Look at a variety. Pines are great and birds love them -- but pines want a lot of sunlight and your screen will end up partially shading itself, so maybe pines on the outer edge? Thujas are beautiful and like water and do fine in shade. Also consider Norway Spruce. Are there hollies that grow well in your area? We have Nellie R Stevens that are gorgeous with big profuse fat red berries in winter. When the robins migrate back that is what they live on at first.

    A really smart thing to do first is plan your screen and install an automatic timed irrigation system before you plant. Will save you time and sanity and trees.

  • iforgotitsonevermind
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Why do you need to screen it so thoroughly?
    You do know they will put siding on it eventually, right?☺
    Whatever tree that is on the right, looks like its doing a good job screening. Why don't you put another one of those in and perhaps an austrian pine in between. Boom and your done.

    If you put in a row of leylands it will look to future prospective homebuyers that you are trying to hide something. It draws more attention to it. They may look and say whoa this garage is too close.

  • naturalstuff
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Put it this way..it's only a garage..nobody will be peaking through the window and it will be quieter than an the actual house.

    Then again..poluution into your property is a concern.

    DID YOU ASK TOWN HALL IF THAT WAS LEGAL THAT CLOSE???

    My a/c condensor had to be 25 feet+ from the proeprty line I can't imagine 10 feet for a "3" car garage being fine.

    Leyland cypress is my 1st choice. 8 footers planted Now!
    Arbovities 2nd choice.
    Any fast growing hedge ( lots of maintenance )
    You're own 3 car garage 10 feet from the fence is my 4th choice.

    :)

  • katrina1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If the area where you want to plant the trees drains well when the spring rains happen to be extra heavy each year, it would be better to plant one row of Thuja 'Green Giant' six feet in front of your fence and about 7 feet apart.

    Then add a staggered row of Green Giant's sport cultivar called 'Steeplechase.' Plant these 7 feet apart and 6 feet in front of the Green Giants but shifted over so they are lined up with the center of the open area between your Green Giants.

    The Steeplechase sport cultivar of Green Giant has been reported to fill in more quickly in the top area where it has most recently increased its height.

    You will need to plant these trees in a raise bed that is at least 6 inches above virgin soil level if your virgin soil planting area has any problem with soggy soil from some heavy rain runoff source. Then you would need to keep them watered regularly, in a manner which insures their bed's soil is moist and always well draining. So make sure that you do not plant them at virgin soil level if that area consistantly remains soggy of as long as a day. If that is known to occur then, do like I advised above and raise their planting beds to ensure proper drainage. Then keep mind of the fact that they drain well and will need extra watering during the dry seasons of the year.

    One other thing; do not worry about attracting deer with the green giant or its Steeplechase sport. both of those trees are not only reported to be very bagworm and other pest resistant, they are also reported as not being desirable for deer.

    If a deer does taste a Green Giant tree they are more likely than not to find that they dislike the taste enough to motivate them to stay away from them.

    These trees are also very good about being resistant to breakage during ice and snow storms.

    Also if you keep them watered appropriately and if you feed them the 4 month slow release Osmokote granuals just prior to the Spring growth and again just prior to each Fall growth period your trees at the very least should grow 2-3 feet the first growing season after planting, 3-4 feet the second growing season, and 4-5 feet the third growing season. By that time they will should be well established and you will be very pleased at how fast they keep growing especially if you keep them watered properly, but if you are happy with their heights at that time you can begin to acclimate them to not need so much supplimental watering and they should still grow and fill out nicely, but possibly just not quite as quickly as in the previous year.

    Please take seriously my my advise about planting two rows that are staggered if you want the fastest screening affect.

    Leylands are reported grow a lot larger than most people end up wanting and bagworms or other pest and diseases have been known to kill them very quickly during extended stressful periods of the year.

  • scotjute Z8
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Our Loblolly Pines will keep foliage all the way down if grown in completely open area. However foliage cover will be at ends of limbs which will keep growing out. Eventual outcome would be a 30'+diameter of tree which is more than most people want for a screening tree. If white pine does something similar, then either the Thuja Green Giant or Leyland Cypress would make the better choice.
    What about that tree in the background of your picture? Is that a Colorado Blue Spruce or something? Its hard for me to imagine planting a Leyland or a Green Giant when something like that tree in background will grow in your area.

  • lithnights
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    For those that question the huge need for a screening, (yes iforgot, i know it will have siding..haha) yes the tree on the right does block it a bit BUT when that is only from one angle of the house (we are angled on a corner). When you are out on the patio or looking from the kitchen you see a different angle.. see new picture.. and from this angle it's barely blocked now.

    Anyway, the existing tree does do a nice job but I'm thinking that tree is 20-30 years old and it would take quite a long time to get another one going. And it's deciduous which means it doesn't do much for us in the winter.

    I really don't want a hedge look so i do like (and was thinking of doing) some type of staggered look. The more I think of it, i really don't need a complete screen (hedge look) just something to break up that view I guess. Does that make sense?

    And for Natural's question, they needed a variance from the township to be that close. I was at the zoning meeting and spoke up but I didn't want to be that neighbor that squashed his plans since I didn't know what kind of view it would really be. At the meeting, he agreed that he would help with the cost of some screening. The question is how much..and if he really will.

  • lithnights
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hopefully this shows the other angle view..

    {{gwi:374608}}

  • iforgotitsonevermind
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hmmmph. Well I see.

    Here's the thing. You're only going to be on your patio mostly when the trees are in leaf, right? A canopy tree will screen the view better than a pyramidal evergreen.
    Ideally, something like a southern magnolia would be both evergreen and have a canopy but I don't know if you will find one of those where you are.

    I would stick a few trees there at the fence that drop their leaves late like oaks- some of which hold their leaves all winter. Or Hornbeams which have such dense branching that even in winter they offer some screening.
    And here and there stick a green giant. Maybe a grouping of them in the middle. You need some more trees there anyway.
    I would also put some trees right next to your patio. Some smaller trees that way you have immediate screening and privacy. Maybe crabapples? I don't know where you are but Catherine crabapples are what they use at the whitehouse rose garden.

    This will give you a fair amount of screening from day one if you start out with 2"+ caliper trees and it won't have that undesirable "I'm hiding something" green wall.

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    NEVER.. EVER.. PLANT ALL OF ONE THING ...

    i dont care what you plant.. but plant a diversity of things ...

    and do NOT think in a linear fashion ... in other words.. it is NOT your only option to plant on the fence line ...

    smaller stock.. planted closer to the viewer ... closer to the deck lets say ... will provide much more cover faster... if that makes sense .... it will block more of your view ...

    e.g. ... from one specific window.. a crabapple or redbud planted halfway out the lawn ... will block that window for 8 months of the year .... sit in each window of the house.. and determine your placement options ...

    is there a deck.. patio.. from which you seek privacy??? if so.. pics from there will help

    ken

  • katrina1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes it is true that the back screen of year round green could get boring over time, so it is a good idea to plan some smaller patio trees around like your favorite crabapples, Almond trees, and in narrow areas, one of the Corintian ornamental pears; or other such sized ornamental trees. Also for interest you could select those up to 12 feet tall potentially growing shrubs, I mean the ones that are cultivars with upright growth patterns, and that grow strong enough, so that they can be trained to grow in a tree form.

    Think of your staggared screening evergreen trees more as just a green background starting point from which you can design a nice contrasting ornamental tree accents yard; with trees chosen for their seasonal interests that you can enjoy while spending time on the patio, or even while observing through your windows when you are inside your house.

  • lithnights
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Agree that I don't want to plant all of one thing. I do want variety and I don't want a hedge look. And I definitely want to put some color in front of the evergreens, I was thinking a variety of shrubs.

    As far as planting between our house and the fence, that is really not ideal since that would be cutting up my backyard, which is nice and open for the kids, and potential placement for a pool. With that said, I am thinking of planting a tree off of the patio (basically behind the chair in the picture) to provide shade for the patio. So that will be some screening which will help.

    Ken, the view from the patio is basically the 2nd picture I have posted on this thread. That is from sitting on the patio and looking back toward the neighbor. And I must stress that that view is almost the same view we have from our family room from our sliders. So we see the garage everytime we walk in and out of our family room.

    Thanks all, keep the thoughts coming. This is really helping me brainstorm ideas.

  • stimpy926
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    That was pretty agreeable of you not to dispute your neighbor's variance request. Hope he does return the favor to you some day, big time.

    I think you need to have at least one large evergreen. You could put the Thuja, Leyland, White Pine, perhaps an oriental spruce, they do well in our zone 6, and you'll have branches retained to the ground. Wonderful conifer. It's not as fast, but in time, boy will it reward.

    Add to the area some small native trees, Serviceberry (Amelanchier) , Redbud - 'Forest Pansy' is a beauty, a deciduous magnolia for fragrance, if the area is not dry (Magnolia virginiana).

    Take your picture of the area and sketch it out, re-arrange to your liking, measuring, and allowing enough room. Fill in front with some shrubs and perennials. Deciduous Winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata 'Winter Red'), again if area is not dry. You'll have wonderful red berries to look at in winter, against the evergreen background. Fothergilla gardenii is a great native 3 season interest shrub.

  • katrina1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If you are thinking of putting in a pool the 'Green Giant' 'Steeplechase' arrangement I first described would work out very well, because under mine I have never seen a litter problem at all. That is a very big concern when someone has a pool. It is already enough work keeping a pool in a good condtion with out have to be constanty skimming off tree litter.

    The Arrangement I suggested with these trees would also give you the privacy needed from your backyard neighbor's second story window view.

    If you installed the pool a short ways infront of that screen of trees that I suggested; it would present a nice looking back drop for the pool, and you could also plant a border of 1 to 2 foot high mounding flowers along the front of that Thuja screen of trees with an edging right at the edge of the concrete pool decking. Of course that all depends on if you are planning to have an inground pool installed.

    One of the very best things I like about my Thuja 'Green Giants' is the fact that they are so resistant to so many of the pests which can quickly kill lots of differed kinds of evergreens.

    Another thing I like better about the Thuja plicata 'Green Giants' is the prettier and more interesting shades of leaf color that this cultiver displays. Over all the Green Giants leaf coloring is very much more appealing than what can be observed with the Leyland cypress trees.

  • lithnights
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The pool is a definite maybe. It could be an inground (very expensive) or simply above ground, or maybe nothing at all. It's a wild card indeed.

    Katrina1, I like the idea of the two rows and stagger look but I'm afraid of losing too much space back there. I know the screening is the priority but if I plant 6 feet from the fence, then the 2nd row 6 feet in front of that, I am losing 12 feet along the whole fence. I guess I'll have to mark that out on the lawn to see just how much that will take up.

    Also, how key is it to use two different types of Green Giants? I'm afraid I may not be able to find the 2nd variety you mention.

    Scotjute, yes I think that may be a Colorado Blue Spruce, but it's probably 40 years old! And I'm not sure what condition it's in or how well they grow here in Southeast PA.

  • katrina1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You do not have to plant the steeplechase, I just suggested that so your front row of trees would be the cultivar which fills-out its rapid top growth more quickly.

    Also, If you do not care about the two rows growing together, and since you would be planting staggered centers then you could even plant the two rows as close as 4.5 feet, if it turns out that you need that extra space.

    I still would not center the planting holes for the trees in the back row any closer than 6 feet away from the fence, unless the fence in question were damaged and already needing to be replaced, and you wanted the trees to take over for the fence.

    My row of Green Giants are planted only 4 feet away from an old privacy fence that I did not want to replace. So now the trees provide more screening and privacy than that fence ever did; even when it was newer and in good repair.

  • stimpy926
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Picea pungens, C. Blue Spruce, do not do well as they age in our warm area. They're better suited to colder climates, zone 5 and colder.

    A better spruce selection, for our area, is Picea orientalis, oriental spruce.

    {{gwi:374609}}

    Here is a link that might be useful: link

  • iforgotitsonevermind
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    how about the junipers?
    Like j scopulorum and j chinensis cultivars. Many of those get 15' tall but 3-8' wide. Fast growing.

  • lithnights
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    But how is the growth rate on Oriental Spruce?

    Same question for junipers. I didn't think the rate was that fast, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Since that garage is already 12 feet high, and the roof isn't even on it yet, I need something that will be 20+ feet in a short period of time.

  • lithnights
    Original Author
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    katrina1,
    You don't happen to have a picture of your Green Giants do you? That would be really helpful to see.

    The fence that is there is in bad shape and will likely be replaced by the neighbor in a few years. We may split the cost if we can agree to the type of fence. But if the arbs are in front of it, maybe it won't matter what the fence looks like.

    When did you plant yours and how far apart? You suggested 7ft to me so I'm wondering if I do 7 apart, how long it would take until I don't see that fence and view anymore. Since the fence is so long, I'm thinking I may have to spread them a bit more (10 ft?) due to cost. Would anything more than 7 be a terrible idea?

    And were you serious when you stated, "your trees at the very least should grow 2-3 feet the first growing season after planting, 3-4 feet the second growing season, and 4-5 feet the third growing season." So if I plant 6 footers, they could be anywhere from 15 to 18 foot after 3 years? That would be awesome!

    Thanks!!

  • katrina1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes I have been short of time lately, but after I just saw your latest questions, I took only a moment to walk over to my row of trees and check thier measurements.

    The fence behind my trees appears 10 times worse that the one in your photo. My trees are planted on about 9 foot centers and I only did one row of them. The bottom four feet height on then averages spreads across their widths of at average is 5 feet all the way around them.

    For the distance from the two intercecting fences inside corner to the end of the bad fence my trees are distacting the view from is about 50 feet long.

    I have 7 GGs planted along this length. the GG's trunk nearest to the inside corner of the intercecting fences has a trunk only 4 feet away from the corner. the 6 other GGS have an 8 feet distance I can measure from trunk to trunk, But the planting holes when first dug were centered at almost 9 feet distances.

    The lower 4 feet of the trees are the most full and there is still an average of a 2 foot gap between each of the trees that needs to fill in before the trees will make a solid screen along that height of the 6 foot tall fence.

    Since I stoped giving my trees osmokote even before last year the rest of the trees growth is not as thick or wide, so there is even more view of the top two feet of the ugly fence.

    This is the reason why I suggested it is best for you to plant two staggered rows. That way you will have a better full screen more quickly than my trees.

    the neighbor's two story house is no more than 4 feet on the otherside of the ugly fence. The tops of my trees have grown about a foot higher than the bottom of their second story windows.

    I measured a 4 foot distance from the fence slats to the trunks of my trees, and I could still easily, with out much tree branch displacement, walk behind my trees and the fence when I came up with the 50 foot measurement for the lengh of fence that the lower 4 feet of this line of trees currently cover.

    One other note is that I planted only 18 inch tall trees to start. They are fairly well protected from the prevailing north/south winds because the 2 story house is directly south of them and there is a large scarlet oak tree directly north of the first 3 from that inside corner I discussed above. I live on a corner lot and my house faces west, but the fence in question is along along the east facing back yard/south side yard, and it stretchs westward to about half the depth of our south facing side yard.

    So my GGs get plenty of afternoon sun, especially in the summer and before they grew so tall got a lot of morning shade. I only went to all this description to illustrate how protected they are from drying winds. This is so effective for then that my trees have never taken on a bronzy cast that many people report their GGS do in the winter.

    My trees are also planted on a slight rise where the builders of the two story house so close south of my trees never did a good job cleaning out the builders sand they uses when installing a narrow sidewalk between that house and the privacy fence.

    The growth I reported with my trees has all been affected by theses issues I have just discussed.

    GGs which struggle will slow draining soil that stays wet longer will grow only half as fast as mine have until they get well established, which could take up to 4 years. Some of them might even die during sudden dry periods and have to be replaced.

    Also trees planted at 6 feet tall might take a full 2 years before you see much top growth out out them. That is because they will be using this time to develop a better root system which can support the 5 foot yearly growth these trees do while they are young and once they are established. The trade off you get with this is while they are waiting to develop a larger root system and not growing much in height, they will be doing a better job than mine did concerning the thickening of their trunks and also thickening the density and spread of their branches.

    My trees did not have to that root size catch up so they started showing nice top growth in the first year they were planted. It took them all this time though to develop an exceptionally good density and branch spread over the lower 4 feet of them. If I had kept spreading Osmokote under them and watering them regularly in dry periods after they got well established, them that exceptionally nice thickness and spread portion of them today might have reached at least 8 feet high.

    As it is they have a fairly nice appearance from top to bottom, but do not have the type of screening affect that you would want to handle well the issues you have described in your back yard view.

    Hope that with all this description, it will help you to understand better why I suggested a double staggered row with the front row beeing the Steeplechase trees.

    If cost is an issue, you might plant 6 foot tall GGS on the back row and either purchase locally or order in if they cannot be found locally the steeplechase sport cultivars of the GGS. If ordered in those Steeplechase cultivar trees would probably on be available no larger than 3 gallon size and will look fairly thin when you get them, but if you provide them good drainage, water them correctly, and feed them with osmokote each spring and fall growing season then it will suprise you a how quickly they catch up in size the the larger GGS you planted in the back row.

  • katrina1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wayside Gardens is listing their Thuja 'Steeplechase' Plant Patent# 16,094 at a price of $25.95 if you purchase 3 or more per order.

    Only thing, is that they are selling these in 3 qt pot sizes. Having not purchased from them before I do not know how well structured these trees will be. If you could find them sold at a local nursery, it seems that for $26 each in quanties of 3 or more you could purchase a better developed tree, that is at least a full gallon or slightly more sized.

    Still if all you can find is such small mail order sizes it should be well worth the expense and effort to order that size and have them shipped to you.

    If you do order 3 qt size trees you might want to then transplant them into 3 gallon sized pots and set them in front and spaced where you will later plant them in the ground once they mature more and develop enough root system to need to be transplanted again. The smaller Sizes, if you keep them watered and fed properly, should grow and establish quickly, and you will have the benefit of the steeplechase trees only ultimatly spreading up to 8 feet in 10 years. Where as the GGs have the potential to spread 12 feet in that amount of time. That means your front row of trees if they were planted in the spacing between your GGs could be postioned to only add 4 more feet infront of the mature width of your GGs. So that means your two rows of trees would only take up 16 feet of spreading space in front of the privacy fence, even once they reached their 40 foot heights. Do you have at least 16 feet infront of your back fence you can devote to this type of tree landscaping bed.

    If your soil is well draining you could even sink those 3 gallon pots into the ground while you are waiting for your steeplechase trees to grow to a better planting size. Doing that would make it easier to keep their potting soil as moist as the trees need, it would keep the sun from overheating the newly developing root system, and it would be easier to contain the slow release, non-burning Osmokote granuals to benefit mostly only each of your trees.

  • brandon7 TN_zone7
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    When ordering from Wayside Gardens, keep in mind that their reputation is fairly dismal. It's not quite as bad as TyTy, but I personally wouldn't send them any more money than I could afford to throw in the trash and forget about.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Watchdog's Wayside Gardens Review

  • katrina1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ooh, I just checked and have seen some really poor reports in quite a few of the more recent Wayside Garden's customer service reviews.

    Maybe you will be better off, if you can find a reputable local nursery who will order in for you the Thuja plicata GGs and Thuja Steeplechase cultuvar trees; that is, if they do not already have some for sale on their lot.

    The good thing about doing it this way is that you will be able to request your trees in whatever height and root form you want to purchase. Usually a good quality 3 gallon potted GG should range in height from 18 - 24 inches or even taller and should be very well branched. 5 gallon Thuja plicata GGs should be at least about 5- 6 feet tall and 7 gallon potted ones should be from 7-9 feet tall, at the very least.

    Since you would be purchasing at least 7 and possibly even more of both these cultivar trees, do not spend more than needed just to get them larger and in B&B form.

    The Steeplechase trees, to be most affordable and not needing to be repotted before planting directly in the planting bed soil, should be purchased in at least 3 gallon potted size.

    If you end up needing your local nursery to order these trees in for you, let they order them in with their next big order shipments, so they will not have to add so much shipping cost to the price you pay for each of them. Of course that might mean the trees they bring in for you possibly won't arrive until September or October of this year. Even though that might seem to be a long delay for you, it will be a much better time for planting them. That way your trees would be able to adjust to the transplanting and to establish their roots system, easier in the fall after this year's, just about here, summer's intense heat period has passed.

  • brandon7 TN_zone7
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hopefully this wasn't already mentioned (I didn't read the entire thread - too long), but don't spend much extra money to step up a little in size when ordering fast growing trees (Green Giants, for instance). If you buy the average 3 gallon GG and the average 5 gallon GG and give them identical growing conditions, you probably won't be able to tell which one is which within about two years. The smaller trees become established more quickly and shoot ahead of the larger ones.

  • User
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Lithnites,
    First of all, they are building their garage too close to your property line, period.
    Wether you do anything about it, or want to do anything about it, is up to you.
    Second of all, I would plant gorgeous specimen conifers close to your patio, mix them, and buy the larger ones.
    Conifers are not fast growing.
    Not as fast as you want, trust me.
    Then, after you don't see that horrendous garage from your patio with your nice 6-8 foot specimen trees,
    buy a good barrier online, and plant some bamboo along that fence.
    Call around to local nurseries and let them know you want a bamboo for privacy, like golden, which would do very good in your area.
    Dig that barrier and for heavens sake, plant some bamboo.
    You will have fast(years before a conifer) tall, about 20 feet, evergreen attractive screening.
    You won't even know they live there.
    There are situations when you have to plant bamboo.
    Your situation is one of these.
    If you ever wanted to sell your home, good luck without bamboo with that monstrosity so close to your property line.
    GOod Luck!

  • brandon7 TN_zone7
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't see what the big deal is about the garage being so close to the property line. Around here half the houses are that close to the property line. I like plenty of room (I've got a 25 acre farm), but I don't think the nearness of the buildings on an adjacent property, with plenty of room between the property line and the potentially affected house, is a critical factor. In fact, if one goes to too much trouble to completely screen the adjacent building out, it may draw even more attention and become more of a potential drawback! That's one reason not to plant a monoculture. You want everything to look natural, not like some screen designed to block a disaster site.

  • katrina1
    14 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If a pool is going to be installed between that fence and the patio, then there will be no problem with planting a same tree screen. Such is even more generally expected when people install an in-ground pool, and especially if it is an above ground pool, which could have a deck 4 feet or more high. In such situations people are limited to what they put there because they there are not that many trees which are resilent enough, and which do not cause extra litter issues and make consitant pool maintance more difficult to accomplish.

    If it ends up that the house needs to be sold in the next 10 years or later than sales people are very good about making such issues clear concerning the benefits of such screens, that is, if a buyer wonders why the same tree was planted so often, and why a screen planting was even done. If I saw such when looking to purchase a new house, I certainly would appreciate seeing an already established screen that was as healthy and non poluting as GGs have proven to be for me.

    The issues that make people feel they need to not plant monoculture hedges or screens is exactly why I have been consistantly suggesting the Thuja Plicata 'Green Giant' or a combination of its sport 'Steeplechase.' These two tree cultivars are so much more resistant to pests and other pathogens which so often kill other evergreens. They also are so resistant to ice damage, and are so disliked by deers, Thus they appear to me that the are at least two of the very few best evergreens I know to plant. That is, as long as one ensures they design planting beds for them that drain well enough that they do not struggle with soggy ground which suffocates their roots, and which then sets them up to quickly die during more dry periods when their already damaged roots would need to recover their leaf damage that occured when the soil remained too soggy for the roots.

    The only other thing I have seen that can easily kill these trees, is when in the first couple years after these trees have been planted, large dogs have been allowed to repeatedly spray them. At first the trees will tolerate such, but they still will struggle, and if the enviroment changes just enough to stress them even more, they usually won't be able to endure long enough to overcome that.

    Other than that all the GGs need, while the trees are growing to the desired mature size is a good non-burning slow release food given just prior to their spring and again just prior to their Fall rapid growth periods. They also do the best with an appropriate watering either from natuals rains or supplimental watering in the amounts of at least 1 inch soakings each week for the first 3 years, after they first have been planted. After that they still survive nicely without such watering, especially if their watering has first been altered enough for them to become acclimate to such different soil moisture conditons.