Hi Randi - as posted in reply to your previous Q on same subject... The spots/lesions may not be a virus and may be an opportunistic fungus attacking stressed leaves. Many asiaticum types often get stressed during our south florida summers - seems worse after periods of drought and then too much water/humidity. I have many types and asiaticum really seems to be affected by fungus more often than my other crinums. Try to keep soil moisture more consistent by increasing watering during dry periods next year. Some folks mulch to keep soil moisture in... I personally don't go that route - I like my organics deep below surface and keep top of soil clear (and even slightly sandy to control snails)
I would reccomend that for now you promote good drainage during rainy season and remove the very worse leaves and clear any decaying materials at neck of bulb (and also any decaying organic material around plants that may be contributing to problem, and then apply a copper fungicide to entire plant.
If soil is very wet maybe add a couple inches of clean sand at surface of soil.

Thanks, Paul for your input. Keeping the surface sandy sounds like a good idea..for deterring snails and fungal organisms near the neck of the plant. I am very guilty of dumping big loads of horse manure/shavings mix up to the necks of all the crinums...perhaps I should keep the "organics" further away from the base of the plants? These plants seem to loooove their "feeding", the Asiaticums have grown to very large sizes, but I may be promoting fungus...?

Randi, all those organics are fine, the crinums seem to prefer that over chemical fertilizers. I would use a copper fungicides and maybe just rake the organics back a little from the neck of plants and add sand to dry surface. I have a lot of crinums and the asiaticum do seem more susceptible to fungus (especially when stressed) ... wondering if you grow any hippeastrum? Some of them can also be affected and it is usually fairly easy to control for them with spraying and cleaning up in similar manner.

Yes, Paul, I have a fairly wide variety of Hippeastrum...and some cultivars seem affected by similar symptoms. Others, so far, show no blotching at all. Interestingly enough, the "clean" and infected plants grow in separated areas, indicating that the fungus/whatever may be spread through the soil from one infected plant to another (??). Is the "red blotching" on both Genera caused by the very same fungus??? I have one pass-along smaller Crinum...Crinum Americanum (I am totally guessing here...has deep green, glossy foliage, with umbels of wispy-petaled white flowers). This Crinum has NEVER shown any of these symptoms. My big 'Emma Jones' also seems resistant. Any other cultivars that appear resistant to this "Crinum Crud"??

That's an amazing collection of Crinums that you have, Paul. I would say that the word "addicted" IS accurate. I tried to plant one of the burgandy cultivars, after seeing a number of gorgeous plants in Gainsville, FL. My plant died the first winter after I planted it....guess we are just too cold for these. I have a variegated Crinum, that I purchased through Glass House Works several years ago. I'm pretty sure that they deemed this a form of Asiaticum. It has only so-so variegation, and even though it has sent off many "pups" in its 5 gallon container (usually, I put the pot in the garage over winter), it has NEVER once bloomed. The plant looks healthy, and does not have any symptoms of "Crinum Crud", but....it sure refuses to bloom. Any ideas?

I have some varigated asiaticum also, I got the pups from a large mother plant and understand the mother didn't bloom until quite large (neck is about 10 inches diameter... so you may eventually need quite a large pot (maybe on wheels, too!)

Thanks, Paul, for the additional info. If the neck of the mother plant is 10" in diameter above the soil line..that is one HUGE Crinum! Since I have all the pups in the pot of variegated asiaticum, would it help the "primary" bulb to remove the offsets? Would trying to keep the plant as a "single" bulb, encourage it to grow bigger, or faster? I planted three seedlings from another asiaticum in the yard, and the one that has NOT produced more than just a couple "pups", is much larger. Is this just coincidence? Can I have some kind of seedling variation? (this plant is not only larger, but has more "undulations" to its big leaves). These are planted only a few feet from each other, and have gotten the same care.

Some of the red and red/bronze asiaticum... (and also the mature varigated ones I have seen) produce more pups and rarely would set any seeds for me - I don't think leaving the pups would harm 'mother' plant but I would remove when they have enough roots to make it on their own. Some of the green asiaticum grow extremely fast and get quite large... some of the biggest plants I have seen down here do seem to have the wider leaves with more rippling than others... and to me it seems the wider leafed asiaticum are better seed producers.. their really seem to be quite a few variations just within the asiaticum types... if your faster growing plants produce a lot of seed it might make a good 'mother' plant for hybridization with others if you were inclined to try.

Paul,...this is a very overdue thank you for your last comments regading all of my crinum questions. I think it would be fun to try hybridization, but I haven't a clue as to whether my Crinums will stand a chance in hot, dry, NM. If I supply loads of water to the root zone, and keep the "tops" dry, I should have less problems with fungal organizisms.?..but... I still don't know if these plants will survive the dry atmosphere of Las Cruces. How do you isolate the flowers of your crosses, once you have pollinated them? Any tips? The Crinum asiaticum and C. americanum (?), that I planted, grew fairly quickly to blooming size from seed..this might be fun.