More than likely. If the scions are very very fresh, you have the best chance. What did you wrap the graft with? Did you cover the scion and graft site with clear plastic to keep humidity up? This helps...but still a crapshoot! Keep trying.

i wrapped the veneer with the green tie wrap you see nurserys use to tie the trees to the wooden stakes.. bought a roll at walmart..

also on the cleft i wrapped it with a rubberband and used a ziplock on top to keep in humidity.. the cleft kept growing a fuzz which i battled with copper fungicide and neem oil

I use the green tie wrap to tie the graft joint and use parafilm grafting tape to wrap the other part of the scion to preserve moisture. It works well for me on apple, cherimoya, fig, and pear, etc.

...good try Mullsie.....I'm batting zero at the moment - 0 for 12

mangofurball

I'm not sure bombing the area with fungicide will benefit anything. The whole idea is to cover the graft to prevent moisture, keep a tight bond, and leave it alone. If something is "off" with the graft, no amount of tinkering after the fact is going to help.

I've done a bunch of grafting and tried several different methods. I've had many that I would have bet money that they would succeed. I had everything as perfect as it could be...and they failed. And some where I swore they would fail, but did not. Why do some fail? Cleanliness? Wrong time of year? Quality of scion material?

I honestly believe that the rate of grafting success is in direct proportion to how important it is to you that the graft suceed. Grafting something like a durian, mangosteen or other garcinia? The importance meter has just leaped off the screen. The odds of success because of this? Go buy a lotto ticket...your odds are better!

In the following...I do not include citrus grafting...which I found crazily easy to graft. My best percentage of grafting attempts come from approach grafts. Kind of a nuisance graft but allows both scion and rootstock material to live if the graft fails. Some success with wedge/cleft...not as much as I would like. I did a bunch on cherimoyas and could never get them to take. I finally did several on one plant in the spring during active growth and they all took. I've had one bud graft take and that is my Bell carambola today. All other attempts at bud grafting have failed miserably. Again...it comes down to how bad you want it! A bunch? Forget it!! LOL!

I think the best time to graft is when the rootstock material is in active growth...at least with most of the types of plants we are growing. A sharp a$$ knife is a must.

There were a couple of excellent grafting DVD's floating around a while back. I believe one was from the Yahoo group...Quisqualis link. Another might have come from the CRFG.

Hit and miss. Celebrate the hits and hope like hell you understand the misses. Just keep trying.

i guess the only good thing is now i can pug this manila rootstock lol

Dont give up, grafting gets easier the more you do it and you started with a somewhat difficult tree to graft. I still haven't been successful with mango but I'm ready to try again this year armed with more experience and better technique. Timing makes a major difference too.

This spring I've done, jak, kwai muk, illama, custard apple, citrus, atemoya, cherimoya, apricots, pears, quince and recently about 55 white sapote grafts with more to do. Because of timing, some of my early season grafts pushed then failed the later ones are looking great.

A few tips I plan to use on my next mango attempt:
-make sure the rootstock is growing
-take terminal scions with buds ready to grow
-make long cuts on both the scion and rootstock so there is a lot of cambium to match up
-wrap your scion in parafilm
-wrap your union tightly with green tape (or rubber bands, etc.)
-after preparing your scion for grafting, place the exposed area of the scion in a glass of water while you prepare the rootstock. A friend mentioned this to me and it jarred my memory. An old grafter would place his scions in his mouth while preparing the rootstock except for mango because it is related to poison oak and would cause a rash on his lips.
-especially if you live in a hot area, loosely wrap your fresh grafts in aluminum foil or if you grafted on a potted plant move it into filtered light. Make sure to remove the aluminum when the buds break through the parafilm.

hopefully our next attempts will be better,
-Ethan

BTW, no matter how much you bleed on your grafts, it doesn't help them take.

i tried grafting some kampong mauve onto my green sugar apple this spring but they look like they all failed, anyone know how difficult it is to graft anona? the tree was flushing like crazy but it didnt take to the grafts. Im going to try side veneering a red seedling next.

i have read the most important part is lining up the cambium layer correctly

Made many attempts with different methods trying this too and all failed. I thought they were pretty good attempts too...good cuts, good size match, good cambiam contact.

Does anyone know how long to keep the scion & graft union covered in clear plastic bag? tia

Tim

esco.. keep it covered til you see new growth

Just use parafilm grafting tape to wrap the whole scion wood and no need of clear plastic bag. This way will avoid a lot of problems (e.g. mold).

In my experience, my side veneer grafts have been most successful when I used a larger, thicker budwood and made sure to line the cambium layers up as best as possible.....you want to match at leeast on side. Another challenge is matching the budwood with the rootstock so that it makes as much contact as possible.

I use clear grafting tape to unite the scion and stock, leaving the bud area exposed, which I then wrap with parafilm because it is much easier for the bud to push through than the grafting tape. I used the tape to unite the 2 because it is stronger and I can wrap it more tightly. I like using the clear tape because I can see if the budwood is turning black (which means the graft isn't taking) without having to unwrap the tape.

Also, I now sterilize my grafting knife with hydrogen peroxide before making a graft in order to avoid infecting the graft with fungus or microbes.

There's some great information here. Much of which I have experienced and learned from in my grafting trials. Mango definitely is not one of the easier trees to graft.

I was just roflol at some of the comments:

"I honestly believe that the rate of grafting success is in direct proportion to how important it is to you that the graft succeed." -this couldn't be more true!

"A sharp a$$ knife is a must." -perfectly said!

"BTW, no matter how much you bleed on your grafts, it doesn't help them take." -I've tried this one in the past and can attest to this statement :)

Funny!

Morning everyone,
Of the 4 clefts I attempted 15 days ago, 3 of which were unsuccessful. The 1st one died only 1 week in from initial attempt, the other 2 just removed from rootstocks yesterday. Last remaining graft I believe is a successful take because scion is still green & healthy looking, no sign of wrinkle or dehydration, also noticed the two buds atop have gotten bigger as well. You may also notice it's wrapped extremely tight & heavy. Should I be concerned with girgling it to death? I thought of re-taping last night but seeking advice beforehand is best.

Tim

lone survivor is middle right
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Dont touch it! Patience is a must, the green tape stretches so it wont girdle, at least not anytime soon. Wait til you see good solid growth before messing around with anything (removing tape, re-potting, etc.)

just my 2bits.
-Ethan

Ethan is 100% correct.....do not fiddle with them. Fifteen days does not a successful graft make. I have had nice green scions into the fourth week and still have a failed graft.

Harry

I'll hold my tongue to not jinx it :)
thank you gents. Have you ever had a growth flush from the scion but failed in union?

Tim

Harry is right. Here in Florida at least, 3 weeks is a good sign and 4 weeks is near certain success, but even then a few will still fail. Also, you can get a scion that will start to push new growth and then die. Mango seedlings (unlike avocado) have a tendency to do that if they don't have leaves or carbohydrate reserves (ie, a thick trunk). The graft will take (begin cambium binding) but will later die because the rootstock doesn't have enough energy to push the new growth. It will then re-sprout from the base.

Whatever happens, don't get discouraged. The trick to successful grafting is practice, practice, and then more practice. Get all the seeds you can get your hands on and just have at it.

Jeff