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rtees_garden

Getting a Mango to not flower?

rtees_garden
12 years ago

Hi all,

Here is an odd question, back in May I purchased a small Nam Doc Mai mango from Plantogram. It was about two feet tall and "Y" shaped when I received it. About two weeks after arrival it put out a flower spike that I removed after it got about 4 inches long (I want the plant to get established where it is planted and grow for a few seasons before I allow it to set any fruit). A week or so later another flower spike emerged from the other main branch of this tree and again I cut it off after it reached about 4 inches in length. Then, in early August, the first branch began to flower again and today I noticed that the second branch is starting to send out more flower spikes (i think, they are only about 1/2 inch long). So, how do I get this plant to calm down and not try to set fruit? Should I just let it try to set some fruit and then remove them or just keep removing the flower spikes?

Thanks for any advice,

Richard

Comments (16)

  • pikorazi
    12 years ago

    hi richard,

    i gave my young mangos high nitrogen fertilizer, but it didn't help to avoid flowering.

    if they flower, you have to wait till they develop pea-sized fruit and then cut off the spikes. if you remove it before, the plant will flower again.

    felipe

  • murahilin
    12 years ago

    Gibberellic acid is supposed to suppress flowering in mangos.

  • rtees_garden
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Felipe,

    Thanks, I figured that is what was happening, so I'll just let it set a fruit or two before I cut off the flower.

    Richard

  • stanofh 10a Hayward,Ca S.F. bay area
    12 years ago

    I'm coming to the conclusion that not lettting a California grown Mango bear fruit until it LOOKS like its large enough for fruit is the best way.
    Avocado's wont until they can handle the weight...Mango's dont seem to get the message.

  • bsbullie
    12 years ago

    stanofh - I have seen many 3gal and 7gal avocados here in Florida holding a fruit to maturity when the plant is nothing more than a stick.

  • stanofh 10a Hayward,Ca S.F. bay area
    12 years ago

    BSB-Yours dont have to pull through 5 months of cool rains and temperatures..and cold soil. For a young Mango that needs every leaf it can get the habit they have of not flushing-here-while holding fruit is why removing the flowers on young trees might be best. Although,a seedling tree could be expected to fair better. No worrys that if they do flush its above or below graft. Nothings written in stone though..tree's and climates varie.

  • bsbullie
    12 years ago

    My response was to your post, a tree fruiting has nothing to do with, as you said, "until they can handle the weight". When it comes to trees, their physiology and mother nature, trees will do what they want to and they will take care of them selves. In a sense, what I am trying to say is trees know what they need to do to survive. If they know they need to drop the fruit to survive, they will. The same goes for holding the fruit. Remember, flowering is part of the tree's natural process. Even though manually altering this may be for what you thin =k is a benefit of the tree's survival, it also may hurt the tree's natural growth.

  • stanofh 10a Hayward,Ca S.F. bay area
    12 years ago

    Well,thats sounds good and all,but when you see a 6' stick of a Mango try to hang on to dozens of fruits all summer while not sending out new leafy growth..you realize the climate that is not ideal for it, and maybe it IS a good idea to keep it from flowering when too young.
    To each his own.

  • pj1881
    12 years ago

    Independent views are a must on this forum, all the information spit out by various members is usually right off the internet or from various Doctors and Specialists in the field. The funny thing is that you never get the same answer from all the top specialists/websites in any area of Tropical Fruit growing, and a lot of it is still very experimental. I myself stay open to new ideas and avoid trying to sound like I know it all just because I read the information on another site. We should all be careful not to be the "end all" source of information on this forum, as to not scare off the first timers that may provide new information. Let's not "Hi-Jack" the site!!

  • jfernandez
    12 years ago

    I don't know which way to go on this one. Most experience CRFG members will tell you to pull the flowers on a grafted mango or you'll slow down the growth. On seedlings it does not really matter because they are focus on flushing rather than fruiting. I suppose you have to consider the words of folks who have grown mangos for years but you also have to try your own things and see what works for you. My experience has been that young grafted mango flush while they are holding fruits but I'm willing to stick my neck out, in my very limited experience, and say it's probably wise to let them focus on growing the first few years on the ground or in a containers. Here are some pics of 5 mango trees, all in the ground, and flushing with the exception of the Manila seedling that's holding fruits.

    Glenn(grafted), has flushed every three weeks this summerwhile holding two large fruits.


    Lancetilla(grafted), first flush while holding two monster size fruit.

    Manila(seedling), holding 13-14 small fruits, no flush yet.

    Alfonso(grafted), three flushes pull the flowers recuperating from last years heat burn.


    Ataulfo(seedling), has not flower this year but keeps flushing every couple of weeks.

    JF

  • rtees_garden
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    JF

    Those trees look great! How long have they been in the ground?

    As far as mine go, they were just planted and I want them to get a few years of strong growth before they fruit. I would be quite happy for them to get to the size yours are but my Nam Doc Mai is quite precocious!

    Richard

  • jfernandez
    12 years ago

    Thanks Richard,

    Lancetilla and Glenn have been in the ground since Jan. and other ones have been in the ground for two summers, less than 2 years.

    If your trees are small I would let them develop for a couple years. My trees were good size when I planted them. Here are pics of the Ataulfo and Alfonso about a year and a half ago. I pugged my Alfonso in June because it had some damage from last years heatwave.


  • rupesh123
    12 years ago

    Hi,
    i am not getting much flowers on my mango tree this year
    i want more and more flowers on my tree
    please hlep me in doing that.pls suggest any fertilizers or some biproduct ..urgent
    thanks

  • adiel
    12 years ago

    rupesh123, why dont you start a new thread? This sounds like the opposite subject. :)

    To answer your question, add potassium to the tree to make it flower more. 0-0-50 or similar fertilizer depending on your location.

    Adiel

  • stanofh 10a Hayward,Ca S.F. bay area
    6 years ago

    I was right after all. You can watch any Youtube or new article on growing Mangoes in the west and southwest and they will say- let them fruit too young,that will stop growth leading to a weak tree in winter that dies at the first frost.

    Funny thing to add about removing panicles? I cut off a few on a couple of main tips..leaving that knobby growth. On another main branch- it started on its own to rub on the gutters in windy spring weather. Do you know that one flushed great this year..and the two tips I had done?..they only made a single small flush over what was one of the best summer's we've ever had.

    So,try rubbing them at smallest size- as the wind did,and get better results then waiting until they get more developed panicles going.

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