http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG33000.pdf

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/PI/PI05700.pdf

http://www.sarasotafruitandnutsociety.org/information/TropicalFruit/atemoyapestsanddiseases.htm

Hope these links (especially the last one) helps you in determining the disease your tree has gotten.

Yeah, no kidding... I live west of the PBIA in Haverhill. The wind here didnt drop below 25mph from Friday thru noon Sunday and about every fifteen minutes we got whirling gusts into the 40's! I pretty much lost all new flushes on my mango and lychee trees and sustained some limb loss on assorted others.. Did you water everyday following planting? How deep did you plant??

Thanks for the links-sounds like i need ( needed) fungicide. I planted the tree high. And I didn't water daily..wanted to avoid fungus..sounds like my sugar apple got it anyway.. Should I apply fungicide now? There are no leaves left but the branches look pretty sturdy otherwise. As far as the wind-all the other trees did well, except for a bunch of shredded banana leaves...and a wilted avocado

Was it getting enough water? We had a long dry spell previous to this recent deluge.

Sugar apples are semi deciduous, but they usually drop leaves later into the fall.

Jeff

I watered it every few days unless it rained so I think it had enough water. I did spray it with seven last week due to the weevil issue.....poisoned it? Should have waited for the info here concerning the root weevils..anyway,the tree itself still looks ok..just bald

A new planting, I would have been watering it more often than every few days. Rain and sprinklers/irrigation are not enough for a new planting. New plantings need to be watered in every day to every other day for the first month or so.

Watering a new planting should not cause fungus issues...how is the drainage in the area you planted it ?

The drainage I think is good-its sandy soil. I am going to post some photos of the tree --as soon as i figure out how to post a pic. I planted a mango tree the same day and its doing fine so I'm not sure if water was the issue. I am going to buy an atemoya from excalibur and I don't want the same thing to happen to it...maybe i should putt it out?

Mango trees are slightly more drought tolerant than sugar apples. (The mango is really only sensitive to drought stress when it is flushing.) The mango is also not deciduous, so it will typically not dump its leaves in a drought situation. My guess would be that the sugar apple experienced lack of water and dumped its leaves as a defense mechanism. We had several days without rain this last week, and it was hard on the unestablished trees.

You will want to keep your recently planted specimens very well watered during the first few weeks. A surface drench will usually not work; you'll want to soak the soil. A good way to do this is to build a 'moat' of dirt around the planting hole to prevent runoff and allow the water to soak in. Of course the amount of water is dependent upon many factors such as air temperature, days without rain, type of soil, type of tree, how well rooted the plant is, etc. Eventually you'll develop a sense for when the plants need water.

But don't fret, the sugar apple is adept at keeping carbohydrate reserves and will bounce back pretty well.

Jeff

thanks-going out back, after work, to water!

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[IMG]http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/nsobgyn/P1030808.jpg[/IMG]
Here is my poor tree...I just watered it as well as a bunch of other trees...

that ground looks pretty dry and thirsty to me, which means the tree is thirsty as well. Looks like you have a good deal of sand also...I would water daily for the next 2-4 weeks. As Jeff said, build up a mote around the tree, about one and a half times as wide as the root ball. This will allow the water to be held in and the tree to benefit from the watering as opposed to the water running off and watering the St. Augustine.

Rob

Guess I have to get out there daily...I am going to try to build a mote around the trees ( if I'm lucky, my husband will do it)Anyway, I was out there with the hose,a long time, watering my trees. And I was trying to prevent over-watering...THANKS for your the advice

I purchased timers that I connect my hose to. I start out with 2 minutes every six hours, then after a few days daily, then after a couple weeks every other day, then after a month a couple times a week.... And in most cases by then you can use the timer to plant something else! I think underwatering during establishment is the #1 killer.. I watch my neighbors kill all types of plants by not watering. I dont have a green thumb if I rely on my memory! I recently purchased a Kaimana Lychee from Harry, he told me to drip water constantly for the first few days.. I did it and didnt even lose the initial flush when planting.. I think overwatering is more of a concern with potted stuff and enriched soils..

I've been watering...the grapefruit lost all its leaves also....I've had the sugar apple for a few years in a pot. It started out as a seed and I have seen it lose its leaves before and grow them back. The grapefruit, a duncan from home depot, will go back on their one year warranty program...I'm going to get some larger trees from excaliber or adams. (I bought a beautiful valencia pride, 7 gallon for only 60$ there recently..alas the mangos are doing fine).

Looks like my boyfriend put roundup around the trees...he used to work for a landscaping company and he claims that it wouldn't hurt the trees, only the grass and weeds beneath. I beg to differ:
here is the last leaf left on the sugar apple

EEK! Does your boyfriend like to fertilize heavily? That looks like fertilizer burn.

Jeff

Hmmmm...not enough water, roundup, too much fertilizer....they sure are tough plants! New approach; plant, water,water,water, keep the man away

:-) Seeing the pictures, I suspect that it was not a drought issue but rather overfertilization. The tree that I'd be most worried about is the mango.

Jeff

Is the tree going to make it? I've been watering heavily. Is there anything else to do?

It's hard to say whether it will make it. You'll have to keep an eye on it over the coming weeks. If it keeps dropping older leaves and the new flushes dry up and fall off just days after sprouting, then that's not a good sign. It's surprisingly easy to kill mango trees with too much fertilizer :-).

Jeff

I dont mean to harp on this BUT This couldnt be over-fertilization because its happening to my sapodilla. A newly planted valencia pride has a small amount of this going on ( and I am 100% that it wasn't fertilized) . Fortunately, The Carrie has no signs of this. Ironically, The Carrie was the tree that I save from the garbage...Someone threw it was dead and put it out, I rescued it and its growing nicely. Anyway,I still think its the roundup....And if I lose these trees..someone is in huge trouble

My Toughest Mango: Carrie..blessed by Steven King?

OK. The sapodilla is tough as nails and should certainly not have any issue with fertilizer. So, you could be right. Perhaps Round Up damage resembles fert burn? I've never used RoundUp on my trees, so I'm not sure what it looks like :-)

Jeff

I think its a pretty common practice to use roundup around tropical fruit trees, I myself do it and supposedly it will only work if it hits the leafy portion of the plant. I dont use it heavily and avoid contact with the trunks, but have hit the trunks ocassionally and havent seen it hurt anything.. I saw it being used at a pretty large farm in Puerto Rico mixed from 55gal drums, and it didnt seem to effect anything it wasnt directly sprayed on there either.

The tree is losing a lot of its leaves...Here is the tree now-it used to look very healthy...

My recently planted Valencia Pride is starting to do this now also...

argg That stinks. I don't know of anything that would make the sapodilla drop its leaves like that. They are tough little buggers. So, quite possibly the leaves got hit with some round up spray?

Jeff

Not that I have ever sprayed the leaves of mangoes or saps but that just doesn't look like classic roundup damage. I am not saying that these two particular fruit trees would not look like this from roundup but I have seen first hand the damage that roundup overspray can doe. An overspray or light spraying would usually not have this severe of an effect on a tree of that size, especially when it is effecting leaves at all levels/heights. To me, it would have to have been mega-drenched or heavily sprayed over the whole tree...but then again, as I said, does not really look like roundup damage.

Rob

What about irrigation/sprinkler water treatment? Is the water source municipal or from a well? Has anything been done recently (supplemented to the water) to combat the rust? I know products like 'No Rust (tm)' eats up lawns and leaves if not diluted properly during or after applying.

In my post above, "doe"..should have been "do" :)

I am circulating the pics to friends in the industry to see if they have any input as to roundup damage or anything else as the cause. I will keep you posted.

Rob

I sprayed the trees with seven and I treated them with dilute imaclopramid , for weevils, but that was a few weeks ago. The only other new thing is I recently mulched all the trees..natural colored from home depot. The carrie is unaffected . I hope that the sapodilla comes back...I never saw this before. Thanks for all your help....worst case scenario I will need to get some new trees..

Just an update: The mango trees all have new flushes. The sapodilla ( was bald for a few weeks!) has a bunch of new growth. The sugar apple is growing new leaves everywhere...
Will post pics... AMAZING how tough those plants are!!

Excellent. Keep an eye on the new mango new flush: if it's over fertilization, the new growth will eventually wilt and die. But, if it hardens off, then you're in the clear.

Jeff