Since you have dogs and kids you'll want to use an organic approach. The following link will help.

I've been using this rainy period to go out and pull them every morning. Their roots are shallow so they pull out easily.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sand Burrs

I don't know where you live, but I have lots of problems with bur clover. I have used an organic pre-emergence weed control in the fall, and it really helps.

Grass burs are an annual. If you mow them with a bagger, they won't be able to reseed.

This from the internet echos what was advised above:

QUESTION: I have a nice yard with various types of grass. Now the sticker burrs are trying to take over. Help!!!!!

ANSWER: Sticker burrs (also called grass burrs!) are a result of a thin stand or sparseness of the grass-of-choice for your yard. Burrs cannot compete with a properly maintained bermuda turf or St. Augustine grass. When you mow the bermuda closely every 5 to 7 days or the St. Augustine as high as the mower blade can be set every 7 to 10 days, burr plants will not survive.

It is only when adverse weather (dry) and poor culture (do not fertilizer bermuda monthly or St. Augustine twice yearly) diminish the desired grass growth do burrs get started. Of course, in new lawns burrs compete with the chosen turf until it is crowded out.

Sticker burr eradication requires several methods of attack. BEFORE sticker burrs germinate and to keep them from germinating, use a pre-emergence herbicide such as Balan, Betasan or Portrait beginning in February, again in May and again in July.

If grass burr plants emerge, mow the grass-of-choice at the appropriate height on a weekly basis before burr plants can produce and mature seed burrs.

If small burrs are detected at mowing time, use a grass catcher to eliminate possible mature burrs.

MSMA or DSMA herbicide can be used on bermuda grass turf ONLY to kill grass burr plants.

Image can be used on both bermuda and St. Augustine to kill grass burr plants even though some stunting and/or yellowing may occur.

Fertilize, mow and water to cause optimum growth of the chosen turf grass to crowd out the grass burr population.

The burrs do not like the fertilizer. For me, it was the quickest way to rid myself of them.

Thanks for your help everyone! Someone asked where we live and we are outside Seguin and Luling. The soil here is pretty much sand too. I was wondering from the post from Roselee is Image a herbacide? I think I have both types of grass. My push mower has a bagger on it so I could bag the spots that are really bad. I wish I had a bagger for one of my riders but thats not going to happen! My other question would be should I start using herbacide and fertilizer now or should I wait until fall? That is another question,when does fall start down here? I was such a green thumber and had a beautiful lawn where I used to live and now I know nothing, I am green with no thumbs at all!! I still need to check the link out for Sand Burrs too. Thanks again.

A belated "welcome" mollymae. Fall begins in about mid-September in my book.

Pre-emergent herbicides should be applied in February in your area (that's Spring around here). Your grass won't be taking up nutrients until April (a good reason for not wasting money on "weed and feed" type products).

I would stay away from chemicals if I had kids and dogs running around. Using corn meal gluten as a pre-emergent in February will nip the burrs in the bud.

Fertile soil will eventually crowd out the burrs so a 1/4" layer of compost laid over the lawn this fall and again in say March will fertilize, build your soil and eliminate the burrs. Any lawn will benefit from this treatment. Once you have a rich looking lawn go to a once a year application of the compost.

I completely agree. Bag when you cut the grass, and then corn gluten meal in february. I usually mix in a bag of molasses along with it just so I don't forget to do it later. We have burrs starting in a little side strip of yard that I have clearly ignored for too many years, and this is exactly what I plan to do about it. We only have a small patch, but they spread so quickly! I'm going to dig the area out and put a chunk of sod over it in the meantime.

Sounds like I'll be trying corn gluten and a bag of molasses! Where do you purchase that type of stuff, Tractor Supply, Home Depot,Wal Mart? I did pull some burrs out today and they did come out quite easy. I am going to try to pull some everyday but then I say that about exercising too!

The thing about mowing is that you always miss some. They tend to send out spikes of burrs in all directions, but they can lie pretty flat and the mower can miss them. The best way is to try to pull them out. And DON'T let the burrs fall off of the plants you pull or you're just spreading the sticker love all around! :)

I get it at a local farm store that carries some organic lawn care products. See if there's one in your area or maybe an organic nursery.

I've seen corn meal gluten at Lowes. It was in those square 5 gallon plastic pails.

The gluten is used as an herbicide and fertilizer, corn meal (no gluten)can be used as a fungicide.

Here is a link that might be useful: Corn Gluten Meal

Thanks for all your information I really am grateful.

I realize this is an old thread, but found it when looking for something else. My neighbor told me to put some carpet behind your mower and pull it around where the burrs are and collect them that way. Then burn the carpet (apparently don't throw it away as the burrs will spread elsewhere). Haven't tried it, but logically, it seems it would work.

Burning carpet sounds very nasty.

Looking up ways to get rid of "sticker" burrs myself. But a sure fire way to get them out of your carpet if tracked in and off your dog is to use a fork or wide tooth metal dog comb. Works everytime.