Still working on the VC part here but also interested in what folks here have to say. Seems I have read the benefit kind of topped out around 30% in a tomato test grown in containers. Plants with more grew larger but there was no increase in crop. Thats from a foggy memory though.

It would be tough to imagine having too much VC in the garden but then thats coming from someone who doesnt have much. Petes big ole pile of worm doo may well overwhelm a small garden.

The other part of this question would be the favored ways to apply. Work into planting holes, side dress throughout growing season or both.

As I understand it, about 25% VC is optimum. If you are already amending with composted horse manure, you may have great results with less.

Optimally, when viable vc is distributed throughout a certain space, it will continue to grow and expand....since it's a living entity....and overwhelm, eventually, all the undesirables in the soil.

That's what happened to my lawn and garden over a period of years. From mainly clay-ish to loam-ish. But it ain't quick. PATIENCE must be your asset in this endeavor.

Nature takes its own time.....

chuckiebtoo

Moderation, Patience, Diversity

My experience with regard to the improvement of clay soil is to add large amounts of organic material (manure, leaf compost, etc.), add some lime to break down the clay and add various types of fertilizer such as bone meal, different manures, and VC. VC is but one (very good) type of ferilizer. For my clay soil because of availability, I till in a mixture of 50% leaf mulch and composted manure, and a sprinkle of lime. Just before planting I mix in a cup of VC to the soil around each plant.

A neighbor gave me the Appelhof second edition:
want me to post lines from the book ?
Or pretend I know something ?

According to an article Pete just sent me, suppression of certain plant pathogens is achieved with one application of castings.
Begin copy p 18 of 25
d) Conclusions on suppression of plant pathogen, plant parasitic nematode, and arthropod pests by vermicomposts
Treatments of growing media or soil with small amendments of different sources of vermicomposts can suppress plant pathogens and plant parasitic nematodes significantly, through microbially-based mechanisms. Hence, vermicomposts have considerable potential in integrated pest management programs, since one application can control the types of pest.
End copy

Here is a link that might be useful: Edwards & Arancon @ OSU (Ohio)

I certainly do. It has worked well so far.

barbararose21101's quote of Pete would put the main value of vermicompost (and brewed vermicompost tea) not as a plant growing medium, not as a fertilizer, not as a soil stabilizer, but as a prebiotic or medicine or soil innoculator of good guys. Or I could be all wrong.

I'm not a real vermicomposter. I just play one on this board.

I like the idea of having worm beds to garden in, of course its not always a popular notion to cultivate free worms.

As for your ? on how much for 10sq ft. If you go with the 25% then it will eat up a lot of VC fast. A sq ft has 144sq in and if you want to till into the top 6" of soil that will mean 2" of VC so 2880sq in for the 10sq ft. A gallon has 231cu in so about twelve and half gallons for that 2' x 5' area.

I would lean more towards CBs thinkin and add a cup or so to each planting hole then side dress a couple of times during the season. As Pete has mentioned in another thread, its not just the immediate fertility but the inoculation of life to the soil. If theres a few stray worms in there maybe they will take up residence :)

I may have mis-credited the above since I just reread this thread and saw CB2 said
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Optimally, when viable vc is distributed throughout a certain space, it will continue to grow and expand....since it's a living entity....and overwhelm, eventually, all the undesirables in the soil.
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Same sentiment and something that I believe is felt universally among worm believers (hmmm, maybe a cult is in order?).

Also just realized there are 2 CBs here, good thing one is CB2.

I believe that the rationale for the use of VC is a long-term soil improvement concept when compared to other soil ammendments. One season of VC application (when other ammendments are held constant) will not show marked improvement, but continuous application will produce annual incremental results in less desease and greater production when use in conjunction with other soil ammendments used in appropriate proportions. Bottom line - apply the same proportions of other soil ammendments and VC each season for 3 or 4 seasons and compare the first season to the fourth season.

Thanks everyone for your expert help and opinions in this matter. I will be adding various amendments including all mentioned above . Believe I will go with the cup around each plant method. In the past having added some vc to a single plant I find it takes 3-4 weeks before any noticable improvement is noticed. Also care should be taken on the percentage as vc is a moisture holding material.