No fertilizer this year....the main goal was to kill the moles and since I was a bit late I was suggested to wait till the next year to fertilize by a few people. For weeds I used Weed B Gone which killed most the weeds. I am still looking on how to kill clover which it did a poor job on killing. Was told it is hard to kill off. Total bottles used is 4 1 bottle for front and 1 for the back over a 2 month period. I used a 20 gallon sprayer @ 2oz setting as this yard was very poorly kept for many years (more dandelions then grass)

Your landscaper....do you trust his judgement. Is he a landscaper or a handy man who cuts grass in the neighborhood? If he is indeed a licensed landscaper then go with him..I say. The raising of the ground was I suppose before any turf was grown. You didn't say just how much it was raised...surely not the 6" that you say you sink after stepping on the grass that has grown. If that is the case, then yes, surely you have to roll it, compress it to some degree....but definitely not to a point that the ground is now compacted. The grass will use the depth of good soil to firmly put down roots...but they shouldn't be floating. The rolling should take care of that. Fertilizer used to hasten and feed a new lawn in the fall is now commonly done. Most of the 'experts'...the people who know grass, say putting a starter fertilizer down when seeding is a good idea. The fertilizer feeds the soil, improves the chance the grass will grow sturdy. There is some question as to the degree of nitrogen such fertilizer contains. Me, I'd trust the bag's directions; if it says its a starter type fertilizer, then by all means use it with confidence. Such feeding in fall is said to be better put down at this time...and the need for feeding in the spring is lessened. That is the idea...whether it works out that way is another matter. Winter takes an awful lot out of a lawn and feeding a high nitrogen lawn fertilizer speeds up greening, accelerates the filling in of bare patches and gets the lawn off to a good start. But, it shouldn't be the only feeding....a three-time, minimum, feeding program should be given a lawn to keep it healthy, increase the growth potential and builds the soil to produce a tough turf. This feeding of nitrogen based fertilizer can be helped with the adding of top layering of a good thriple mix or compost to help the soil take in organic matter which helps retain moisture and feeds the soil micro-organisms.

Wasn't looking for any "attaboys" or tell me it's a good idea (never asked a question in the OP). I was giving a simple tip to people that want to give a low-dose fertilizer using a hose-end sprayer when walking on the lawn isn't possible (in this case due to seeding). The only real reason I posted it is to give a use for someone that has left over dry fertilizer that wanted to use it up in an unorthodox way. And as you mentioned it is even more applicable to those with sandy soils as the watering done during germination (and due to mother nature) can remove the nutrients at the surface where the seedlings are. I have an aquarium and frequently use the used fish water around the house and outside to accomplish a similar task. There's never fear of over-fertilizing since the dosage is very low, but you also can be sure the trace elements that sometimes cause deficiency in otherwise healthy soil will be present. Since the coffee filter works so well at removing debris that would clog the sprayer I plan to use the really cruddy bacterial-laden water on the lawn during my monthly filter cleaning. Normally I just dump it around my trees/flowers/etc., but a light coating on the ground should do the trick. Actually, now that I think about it, consider it a chemical compost tea, it's not going to replace fertilization, but will give a small boost to the lawn.

I would not mow it at all unless it gets up to 5 inches. What you need to develop in the winter is deep roots so the grass can withstand the summer heat. Grass kept short will develop short roots. Tall grass has more chlorophyll to make more sugar and can develop deeper roots. Set your mower to the highest setting and wait until the grass is tall enough to mow. As for your fertilizer, I'm a little offbeat with most here. I think applying fertilizer along with the seed is a waste of money. Fertilizer does not work unless you have roots to suck it up. Seeds have no roots. In fact I don't think your roots do much of anything except absorb water until the grass gets tall enough to mow (5 inches). I always suggest you wait to apply fertilizer until the second time you mow (at 5 inches, not to beat this horse any more). By then you have some deep roots and your fertilizer will be absorbed as it moves deeper and deeper in to the soil. Getting back to the specifics of your question, it sound like you are mowing too low. Assuming it has been mowed once already, I would let it get taaaaall enough to mow once more and fertilize.