tjski, I am going to do almost exactly the same thing to my lawn on Sept 9. I'm in the DC area so probably a little hotter here in terms of germination timing... Same situation, though. Complete reno last year... added about 3" of topsoil, reseeded the whole lawn... came in perfect! beautiful. lush, green, etc. Then the heat came and the fungus spread. Anyway, i lost about 1/4 to 1/3 of the fescue that had come in. I am going to do the following: 1. cut low. Really low. bag all that mess up. 2. rented seeder 3. run that in 2 passes 'dry' no seeds to churn up the dead crud and carve some good slits in the ground 4. run the mower w/ bagger over it all to pick up the stuff the slitseeder carved up. 5. either fill the seeder and go in two or three passes OR use my broadcast spreader and put seed down that way 6. roll w/ 1/2 full roller 7. water 3X per day 10AM 2PM and 4:30 PM until the fescue germinates So.... It looks like you have smililar plans. I'm no expert, but we seem to be thinking about the same. My only question, and one you might consider too, is whether or not to actually put the seed down with the slit seeder or just use it to carve the slits and then use the spreader to lay down the seeds. Then roll it in of course. Some experts might chime in on that one. Good luck!

Tenacity's preemergent effects are demonstrated when it is applied to bare soil, or areas of very thin turf, prior to seeding with turfgrass. If you have a reasonably thick stand of grass the Tenacity will not be able to work in this capacity. Nimblewill (or Nimbleweed) is a warm season perennial. It is spread by stolons and seeds. Preventing existing nimblewill from seeding will reduce spread, and treating existing stands with Tenacity during the warmer months should remove this from your yard. Using a granular preemergent like Dimension or Barricade in the spring should prevent new nimblewill seeds from germinating.

Crabgrass is an annual grass that grows from seeds and does not spread by roots. A good garden soil is about 45 percent sand, 25 percent silt, 25 percent clay, and about 5 percent organic matter. http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/misc/soilbasics.html There are many ways "weed" (unwanted, unloved, plants) seeds get into the garden, on the wind, dropped by birds, carried in on the fur of animals. so no soil will be immune to growing those unwanted plants. Mulches can help some, but are not the total cure for them either. The best way top keep gardens free of unwanted plants is with diligence from the gardener. Some types of edging, not the 4 or 6 inch stuff, can help keep grass roots from invading the garden from below but often that same grass can send stolens (a type of root) over the top of those barriers. kimmq is kimmsr

So I have taken on lawn care this year for the first time and I have a lot of weeds in the existing lawn, which I don't really think the previous owner bother to take care of. Location is Northern Virginia. I have a bunch of Poa Annua, Nimblewill, Crabgrass and some other grass type weed that is growing up quicker than the Kentucky/Fescue mix that I think I have. I also have some general broadleaf/clover in there. Here's what I have done to date: One application of Tenacity on the Poa Annua and Nimblewill (Although the Nimbewill is brown still) Speedzone over the entire lawn to tackle the broadleaf weeds Reseeded entire lawn about 3 weeks Patches of my lawn have turned yellow (which I assume is the herbicide working), some white (the Tenacity) and the Poa Annua is still strong. Anyone help me with my next step?The seeds are just starting to sporadically sprout, but I can only see occasional shoots in some sports. What's my next step? At the moment I was planning to hit another time in a few weeks with Tenacity and Speedzone (once the new grass has grown a little and after I've had a first cut) and then about 6-8 weeks down the line put down some Dimension, with a view to them putting more Dimension in the fall along with another re-seed. I recognize this is a multi year process. I also have fertilizer (that doesn't contain a Pre-M) for the new grass. Should I put that down now? I've attached some photos. They are pretty broad pictures, but it gives you a sense of what I'm dealing with (I hope). Can provide more detailed ones if needed.