My Marie Bugnet doesn't sucker but Frau Dagmar is a suckering fool. She suckers out into the lawn and comes up in cracks in our asphalt street. I dug up 15 from one bush this year and could do it again. Yes Henry Hudson does too but not quite as bad. The pavement series of rugosas sucker quite a bit also. Would I plant them as a hedge across the front of my yard? No!!! Frau Dagmar is taller than Marie in my yard when mature. It would look good the first year but soon you'd be fighting the suckers. The first thing I'd do would be to prepare the beds for next spring's planting. Unless you're going to remove those trees that shade the rest of your roses, I'd move them to the new beds so they at least get morning sunlight. Otherwise, except for the few that do get sunlight, you're going to lose the rest to shade or ground ivy. If kept deadheaded and pruned they should fill out and would make a nice show from the street. Have you raised them out of the holes yet?

Hello Hechmo, You'll need to moisten the soil volume from the planting containers plus a little surrounding soil as well. Keep in mind that one gallon of water moistens about 1 cubic foot of soil. Your 36" box tree has about 27 cubic feet of container soil, so you'll need at least 27 gallons of water. The 24" box tree has about 8 cubic feet of soil to moisten - so at apply at least 8 gallons. The frequency will depend on the time of year and when you planted. The schedule from page 14 of Landscape Watering by the Numbers recommends the following for plants installed in fall through spring. Weeks 1 & 2 - water once every 3 - 4 days Weeks 3 & 4 - water once every 6 - 7 days Weeks 5 & 6 - water once every 7 - 10 days Weeks 7 & 8 - water once every 10 - 14 days By week 8 it will be the first of February and you can stay on the 10 - 14 day schedule until the end of that month or even mid March, depending on the weather. When temperatures begin creeping up, you'll need to increase the frequency gradually so by summer you are watering twice a week. Here is a link that might be useful: Landscape Watering by the Numbers

Laura: Jacarandas naturally grow as large shrubs and become trees only with training (removing all lateral branching) or with extreme age. And a good rule of thumb when planting ANY tree is to NOT prune the first year (and maybe mininmally, if at all, the second year). Let the tree establish itself. Leave the photosynthetic material (leaves) on the tree above ground so that they can make food for the tree below ground (roots). Once established (1-2 years), prune only for minimal aesthetic purposes. Of course, you'll always prune off broken, dead, or dying branches as well as, eventually, crossing branches or anything that reaches beyond where you want it to reach. And if you live in a slightly windy area, also prune the tree to be more open to allow wind to blow through. Joe

I'm not sure that the root system of the jacaranda and the mesquite are compatible. The mesquite tend to be more shallow rooted where the jacaranda are more deep rooted which might make it difficult for the jacaranda to get adequate nutrients. Keep in mind that mesquites can get huge - about 45 feet across when they're mature. Although it's hard to imagine now when the trees are babies, it's very easy to overcrowd little trees and then none of them do well as they mature. Another thought on the mesquites: they wild ones are thorny as all get out. You'll be glad to not deal with them once they get bigger - like in a year - and you're having to prune them every couple of months. The Chilean mesquite is a great thornless variety and grows quickly from 15 gallon containers. Crista