You probably stressed it by removing so much at one time, but I don't see that you had much choice. The usual recommendation is to remove no more than 1/3 of the height of the grass at one time when you mow, but I'm not sure how you could have done that in this case. I think the grass is probably stressed right now but it should bounce back.

>>Also I was watering once a day for about an hour then I was told by a friend that may be making it worse. It is making it worse--it encourages weeds, shallow roots, and disease. If you made me guess, I'd say that' a tri-mix lawn, or standard builder's grade. It actually looks very nice from a distance and entirely reasonable given the weather we've been having. Right now, the season for seeding is so close to ending that you can either treat for weeds or seed. There's no longer time enough for both. Personally? I'd wipe the weeds and evaluate at that point. You can dormant seed in December or January if you find you need to. For that, I'd use something like Weed B Gone with Oxalis, Chickweed, and Clover control. The second step here is feeding. It's time--the optimal feeding date for northern lawns is the week around Labor Day, again on October first, and a third time when growth ceases for the year but the grass is still green (Thanksgiving for me). The fourth yearly feeding goes around Memorial Day and no earlier as it'll tap carbohydrates from the roots if applied before that. Overall, mow at the highest setting you can stand for the longest lawn you can stand (mine is about 3"). That'll shade out weeds, encourage longer roots, and give you generally healthier grass. Your last mow of the year can be shorter to reduce snow mold problems, or leave it long if you don't spend a lot of time under snow cover.

This is a close up of the clover patches and grass mixed in

You're doing just about everything wrong, so yes, there is something else you can do. Your watering and fertilizing plan is guaranteed to generate thatch. You're doing both far too frequently. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch (2.5 cm) all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s (32-37 C), deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s (26-32 C), deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s (21-26 C), deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70 (<21 C), deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. Fertilizing: Once at the end of May, once in early September, and once in November after the grass stops growing but before it turns brown. Mowing: Mulch mow at the mower's highest setting. Here's a motivational photo for you. All these lawns are KBG. The green lawn follows the guidelines explained above. The others water every day for just a few minutes. Thanks to morpheuspa for the picture.