There's a lawn care forum here at GW. You might want to pose your lawn questions there. I assume you mean some kind of garden or shrub bed along the driveway, not mulch per se. Construction of a bed itself isn't all that big a deal (remove sod, test soil, amend with organic matter, plant then mulch to conserve water and reduce weeds), but to select plants you'll need to consider the soil type and sun exposure. In NH, presumably you'll also need to consider snow removal and possibly salt tolerance along a driveway which might make some shrubs not particularly good choices. Perhaps a no-mow groundcover other than grass would be a better choice than a mixed perennial or shrub border. Again, think about the practicalities and decide what might work better for you.

Maybe on the lawn forum?

Sounds like you are watching too many commercials to help you with your gardening. Here are the basics of lawn care: Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower (special exception for KBG - mow at 3 inches). Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 4 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. When to aerate? Never needed if you follow 1,2 and 3 above. When to overseed? Not needed with KGB. Overseeding is a fescue problem. 20-0-0 is only appropriate if you have bermuda. Any other grass would require a soil test to determine a specific mix of fertilizer. Chances are whatever is on the shelf currently is okay to use. But don't apply after Memorial Day. If you do you are getting into the summer heat. Heat and chemical fertilizer are not good for the grass. The sprayer approach to fertilizing is not a good way to go. Grass needs fertilizer at a rate of pounds per 1,000 square feet. The sprayer can deliver micro-ounces per 1,000 square feet. You'll need a drop spreader or a broadcast spreader and large bags of fertilizer. Trimec is one of any number of 2,4-d type herbicides. Don't mix it with anything else, especially fertilizer. Herbicides work best when they are spot-sprayed on each weed. If you are doing the 1-2-3 above, you likely will never need herbicide. If you apply it, though, you should see the weed die in less than a week. If you don't see that, then it could be the herbicide was not designed for that particular weed. Trimec types of herbicides are used on weeds like dandelions and clover; not crabgrass and other grassy weeds. Relax. It is not hard to do this.

not sure if you read the other boards here.... SO, I'll copy and paiste my question here.... If, your still in.... Ok, here is a follow-up. I purchased the Gator blade mentioned above in an earlier post, for my SR4 20056. Clearance is fine for the kickers. I had to modify the holes just a tiny bit because they were set just a tad too narrow. NOW, on to the review! I'm not very happy so far! My regular toro recycler blade MULCHED better. It seems the GATOR is either a bit to efficient or the Kickers are causing a counter affect! Let me explain a bit more and maybe somebody can help me... It seems the GATOR kicks the blades of grass up too fast and ends up just blowing it out underneath. It is leaving way to large of a blade and a HUGE trail as I mow. One thing I noticed is that this happend the most in the thicker areas of my lawn. I have my heighth set at E (3-1/4). IS this too high or too low? Does the GARTOR just not work well with a SUPER-recycler (with the side kickers)? So, am I going back to the regular TORO (OEM) blade? Anyone have a take on this? Thanks!