I disagree with Auteck's recommendation, and I'm a little surprised he recommended what he did. Your original grass seed mix selection was tall fescue, fine fescues and KBG. I suspect you have mostly tall fescue growing since you have bare spots. If the KBG in your original grass mix had germinated fully, then it should fill in bare areas in the sunnier parts of your lawn. I agree with him in that perennial rye is usually what is grown in your area, but there was no perennial rye in that original mix. Overseeding your lawn with it now will give you some throughout the whole lawn, but the bare spots will be all PR, and they will stand out against the TF you have now. My advice, use either all TF to overseed, or a mix that has similar percentages to your original mix. I would also stick with Pennington's as it is usually the best mix in the big box stores.

As to your original question: Many have had satisfying results from overseeding in the Fall. Success primarily depends on sunlight reaching the seed and proper irrigation for the 3-4 weeks that it takes for KBG to germinate. As would be expected, seed will take best in bare and thinner areas of the lawn. (keep in mind the need to match growth rates, color, and blade width between the new seed and the existing turf). I, personally have had very good results from overseeding. So, in my opinion overseeding works and is worth it, but results will vary. What puzzles me about your sittuation is what condition your condition is? It sounds like your major issue is loss due to disease. People particularly in the East are reporting increased brown patch issues this year with their TTTF lawns. To avoid brown patch damage you need to be proactive with preventative fungacides and reactive with curative fungacides. Brown patch usually (but not always) does permanent damage to the turf and as I said, TF doesn't possess the ability to spread and fill in in the Fall. So I'm a bit puzzled by what you are reporting. Anyway, the best thing to do about reoccuring disease problems is a preventative and currative fungicide regiment. Weak grass is more susceptable to disease, so you should see if there are any weak links. Get a soil test and see if you are low on any nutrients. The greatest improvement in turf will come from proper mowing, irrigation and fertilization.Make sure your turf is getting proper irrigation. Too much irrigation can be worse than too little, Do a screw-driver test to see if moisture is penetrating (poor water penetration (hydrophobia) can often be repaired by shampooing) If your soil is not holding moisture--add organic matter. What types of fertilizer are you using and what schedule? How often are you mowing and what height?

I am finalizing my plans for overseeding. I have decided to rent a slice seeder for overseeding. Anyone have any advice before I do? I assume I need to flag my sprinkler heads and avoid them? Seed of choice for this year is: I broadcast sprayed yesterday with a good amount of 2D4. Any other suggestions? I have a particular weed that I can seem to get rid of, I'll follow up later with a few pics of this weed for advice. It's a clump of crab grass that has migrated all over the front yard.

Sorry, I seem to have missed your previous question as well. You could have seeded a bit, but would have lost a high percentage of the sprout during summer. Quarantine has totally borked my normal response to feeding this year. Normally I'd have gone to get soybean meal and fed around now or so, give or take. While the place I go to is open, it's not somewhere I need to go, therefore I didn't. I'm using Milorganite this spring, for about three-quarters of the feeding, and filling in with urea, and simply feeding right around Memorial Day to account for the fact that Milo is a faster nitrogen supply than soybean meal is. That's fine. I'll time it so that rain's expected within a reasonable time period to wash in the urea, and just enough to wash it in correctly (a quarter inch to somewhat more).