Hi, I really have no idea what is wrong with my fescue. I had similar problems last year in late summer and large patches of the lawn died. I had several lawn care companies out and no one was able to tell me what the issue was except charge me $50 a pop to spray with fungicide which didn't really do anything. To make a long story short, I started reading this forum, fired the lawn care company and took measures into my own hands. I aerated last fall and this spring, spread peat moss, overseeded, cut at highest setting and spread corn gluten meal in the fall, winter and spring. I had hoped my problems would be over, but the issue is back earlier than last year. This year has been cool and average precip. I'm not watering in evening. Any help?

The mantra for watering is deep and infrequent. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Infrequent means monthly in the cool months working your way toward once every 7 days as the days heat up. This is not a rule of thumb but guidance - if the temps are above 90 degrees F, then you should be watering more toward once per week. Between 80 and 90 should be about every 2 weeks. Lower than 80 and it's more like every 3-4 weeks. There are other factors including sunlight, humidity, cloud cover, shade from buildings and trees, soil type, soil depth, grass type, grass height, etc. Rather than trying to keep mental track of all that, it is best if you watch the grass for signs that it is drying out. As soon as any part of the yard looks dry, it is time to water the entire yard. If it has been fewer than 7 days in the summer, then water longer. No plan is ever perfect. There are some fungal diseases which cause the grass to dry out and look like it has not been watered enough. If you are certain the soil is moist, but the grass looks dry, then you likely have a fungal disease. Yes, there are fungicides. I use an organic approach so I don't know what the chemical fungicides are. I believe Immunox has been mentioned. Before you get one, read the entire label looking especially for the part about what the maximum temperature should be and rainfall. Summer is not a great time to treat for fungus because of the high temps.

Even though chinch bugs go after stressed lawns during drought, many times too much nitrogen will compromise the immune system of the turf and invite them to a feast. This time of year is not the time to apply nitrogen fertilizer, even organics such as Milorganite; too much N will aggravate the situation as to bugs and fungus, especially Brown Patch. Also, Flea beetles are mistaken for chinch bugs but are solid black and shinny and are appear to jump around (they are harmless to the grass). Chinch bugs adults are dull black with white markings that cross on their backs. With all the water that's going on, the roots are probably rotting off due to disease and lack of oxygen from the soil being so compacted. Once the soil is allowed to dry for several days, go with 2 days per week as someone suggested but be alert to shut off the sprinklers when an adequate rain of at least 1/2 inch occurs. There is a ban on nitrogen and phosphate-containing fertilizers in the summer months anyway. If you dyi, try applying a chelated trace element spray. My best advice is to hire a well-recommended licensed lawn professional to inspect the lawn and make the proper treatment.

Yes I'd like to see the pictures. You were watering far too long at first and then switched to far too frequently. Here's more on watering. For most lawns you cannot go cold turkey from new grass to mature watering, but St Aug and bermuda are much more tolerant of the switch. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.