I'm hoping that these instructions will help you in uploading pictures to ImageShack as well as showing it to the members of GW. Here are steps. 1. Take a picture of the object 2. Move the picture from camera to computer 3. Goto http://www.imageshack.us 4. Click Browse button and find the picture that you copied to your computer in Step 2. 5. Click the "host it!" button. You can resize the picture by checking the resize checkbox and select the size you want. Ideal size for webpages is 800x600. 6. After clicking "host it!", your picture will be moved from your computer to Imageshack's computer(I.T. folks call it server farm). See image below after "host it!" was clicked. 7. Once you see that kind of screen, page down or scroll down until you see the "Direct link to image" just right of the rectangle. Actually, it's the last choice. 8. Highlight the whole line as shown in the picture starting from http upto jpg. TIP: gif is ideal for flat colors like a capture of an application software window and jpeg is ideal for photorealistic pictures. 9. Once the text is highlighted, on the keyboard press CTRL+C or you can click Edit menu above on your webbrowser then click Copy. Now, the text you highlighted is on the clipboard(I.T. folks call it memory address, hehehe). We can now start posting the image to Gardenweb. Type the following. Make sure that img and src have a blank space in between them. Also, the src will contain the link to our image that is enclosed by double quotes. Put the blinking cursor in between the double quotes and press CTRL+V. The CTRL+V is Microsoft's paste command. Another way is by clicking with mouse the Edit menu then Paste. The one you are typing should look similar below. You can now click "Preview Message" button so you can check if you are able to see the image you uploaded to ImageShack. If you are happy with the result, you can click "Submit Message" button. Voila!

I think you'll have some of the K31 in there forever and since the two have very different growth rates (K31 grows a lot faster) and since K31 is a bunch grass, you could end up with a very clumpy looking lawn. I think that if you want to make it a clover lawn (or part of the lawn), your best bet would be to kill what's there now and seed the clover. Clover does spread, especially if you plan to leave it unmowed (so it will spread by seeds as well as stolons).

TO: ubro FROM: Eric Koperek = erickoperek@gmail.com SUBJECT: Living Mulches for Orchards DATE: PM 6:15 Thursday 4 February 2016 TEXT: I recommend multiple species cover crops for both orchards and vineyards. Wide biodiversity is necessary to control insect pests. When I was a child, we sowed our apple orchards with buckwheat, turnips, and hairy vetch = winter vetch. This provided many flowers that supported beneficial predators and parasites. Translation: The good bugs ate the bad bugs. Rule: Plant small flowers to encourage beneficial insects. The good bugs have small mouth parts so planting big flowers does not work. Any plant in the Carrot Family = Dill, Fennel, Caraway, Coriander is a good choice. Lacy phacelia, mustard, tansy, feverfew, and clovers also produce abundant pollen and nectar that are easy for beneficial insects to reach. I like to include 1 / 16th part = 6.25% by weight of assorted perennial wildflowers in my cover crop mixtures. Annuals also work if they reseed freely = abundantly. Wildflowers encourage large populations of beneficial insects. As an added benefit, wildflowers also attract customers. Don't forget to include weeds in your orchard. Weeds provide food, shelter, and alternate hosts for beneficial insects. The idea is to keep a resident population of good bugs waiting for the bad bugs to arrive. Growing fruit trees in weeds can nearly eliminate many insect pests. Mow the orchard once yearly or only when trees are ready for harvest. I recommend planting fully dwarf fruit trees. Short trees are much easier to care for and harvest. Note: Do not fertilize dwarf fruit trees. Do not use any soil amendments. Just dig a hole in whatever soil you have and stick the tree in. (Make sure that the graft line is well above the soil surface). Good soil will make dwarf trees grow much taller which is a waste of money. As long as the trees grow 6 to 8 inches yearly, they are getting enough nutrients from the soil. Don't try to help them along or you will be sorry. Over-fertilized trees attract insect pests. Remember to water and mulch your trees. Apply mulch from the trunk to the drip line = the tip of the farthest branch. Use leaves, straw, hay, weeds, wood chips, hedge trimmings, grass clippings, any kind of organic matter will do. Apply mulch not less than 8 inches thick. If you don't have any mulch or if mulch is too expensive, plant mixed cover crops under the trees. Water is more important than fertilizer. As long as you have water, you can grow all the fertilizer you need. (This is why you should include a mixture of legumes in your cover crops). Note: If you space your trees widely, then you can plant row or hay crops between the trees. This will provide income while your trees are growing. We like to plant about 40 different species of trees, shrubs, and vines per acre. Broad genetic diversity greatly reduces insect pests and economic risk of crop failures. Don't plant anything you can't sell. Biodiversity does not pay unless every plant produces a cash crop. We run chickens in our orchards to control insect pests. Chickens are housed in mobile chicken coops on wheels. Move the coops 200 feet every night so chickens have fresh pasture each morning. Chickens on good pasture will get most of their food from bugs, worms, seeds, and leaves. Pasturing chickens greatly reduces feed costs: Portion only 1 to 2 Tablespoons = approximately 1/2 to 1 scale ounce of rolled grain daily per chicken. Keep moving chicken coops all year long. 30-day rotations (1 day grazing followed by 30 days rest) are best. Pastures need about 1 month to re-grow before they are grazed again. Long rotation periods are also necessary to control chicken parasites. Remember: Your best investment is an irrigation system. I would not start any commercial agricultural operation without a reliable water supply. Dwarf fruit trees are expensive. Water is cheap. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. Water your trees and cover crops. I hope this information will help get you off to a good start. For more information on old-fashioned biological agriculture, visit: www.agriculturesolutions.wordpress.com -- or -- www.worldagriculturesolutions.wordpress.com -- or -- send your questions to: Agriculture Solutions, 413 Cedar Drive, Moon Township, Pennsylvania, 15108 USA -- or -- send an e-mail to: erickoperek@gmail.com end comment.

Good for you for trying to conserve water. I'm actually very interested in the same. I researched a few months back but did not find any local sources for clover seed, in the Bay Area, CA. I found websites to order online, but I prefer to buy in person. If anyone has recommendations for bay area clover seed sources, or just additional info for myself and/or the original poster, would be much appreciated. Thank you.