16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Found this nutrition deficiency article: http://www.haifa-group.com/knowledge_center/crop_guides/tomato/plant_nutrition/nutrient_deficiency_symptoms/

Phosphate deficiency.

In a raised bed with miracle grow and top soil, typically add a 13-13-13. Will add a little more. Thanks for all info everyone.

Congrats, neighbor on your first.

You can post single image directly from you pc.
Press "Browse" on top. It will take you to your pc. Then go to the folder, locate the picture, double click on it.
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Once finished writing, just submit.

Thank you seysonn.

For a follow up, I took photos on July 16th, and noticed this on my Rutger's Ramapo F-1, a friendly Wasp or Bee taking control. I just got back from a business trip and looking over the photos.

Even though I am allergic, I guess they are my friends now.
- Mr Beno

Thanks again all, and tonight I spotted another hornworm.

No More Mr Nice Guy, these things are going down!
noticed 3-4 spots on a leaf prior taking photos earlier today. After the photos it was getting dusk so I could not pinpoint him. But knew where he crawled. I just Hope my new friends the "wasps" take care of him after my appointment tomorrow..

- Mr Beno

My vote goes with birds as well. I am an expert on squirrel damage! They are absolute terrors. I would never have believed that a squirrel could "pick" a beautiful 12 Oz. Carbon tomato and run with it in his mouth. But I saw it! I was right after him. They are not cute!

Had this problem last year. I thought at first it was a squirrel until one morning I caught a glimpse of a grey bird pecking my ripe tomato. Looked like he was after the seeds inside, so he will make a hole in one tomato, gets the seeds and move on to the next⦠So frustrating.

This post was edited by green_go on Sun, Jul 20, 14 at 20:33

Kumato is a hybrid variety developed by Syngenta in Spain and Western Europe as a result (per Syngenta)

"Developed through the natural crossing of a wild and domestic tomato" (parentage unknown except by Syngenta).

and seed distribution is heavily controlled by the corporation to a group of highly corporate-vetted commercial growers in only a few countries (primarily Australia) for commercial sales.

It was marketed in the US only recently under a different name - Russo Bruno if I recall correctly - with the same controls on the seeds..

Lots of info available about it on the web.

Dave

Below is a picture of my Kumato plant.

One this is for sure that it has a vine growing habit very much like cherry/grape tomatoe. Its branch stretch out very long and tall but the branches are thicker than cherry plants.

Since I planted mine as an experiment from store bought fruits, I am not sure what I will get. But so far the fruits are more plum shaped than round. The fruits that I bough were the size of a big cherry, maybe 2 oz each.

I wonder how OP's plants are doing, in terms of production and fruits shape/size.

For future reference: Don't put 12 tomato plants in a tiny (1.5 square meter) spot (who knew they would grow like this?!)

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Yeah, right. If you do, you have to keep them trimmed/pruned.
I do very tight planting myself but in 1.5 meter square I would plant 6. Max 8 smaller ones. Even then, I keep my plants pruned. Here is a picture of one.

One main doubled. Then each of them doubled. Now there are 4 branches growing upright ; no side branches/suckers are allowed to grow. This one is the one with maximum branches, Four, NO More.

I realize that there are those who do not prune. That is their choice and style. But in small space gardening it will be a tough task.
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This post was edited by seysonn on Sat, Jul 5, 14 at 2:48

Nice plant. I'll definitely prune them next time. I did look it up earlier and came to the conclusion that it was not necessary (which suited me, naturally). Then they grew and grew and grew: I put up a greenhouse and within a month they went from 30cm dying plants to 2m dying plants.
Upon your recommendation, last week, I hacked away some of the smaller suckers, but it's heartbreaking to do anymore. I copied your frame-style supports because it fit into the existing structure without having to put stakes through the roots. I also did a bit of florida-weave around the central ones and some fence-tying on the far ones. Much effort put into rescuing these 12 falling plants; and now I've left them in the hands of my housemates for a month. I'll let you know how the tomatoes turn out, if any do come out.

I was discussing this with the sample lady at the grocery store (I will talk to anyone!). I have a row of San Marzano, and a row of Chocolate Stripes, 25 of each, right next to each other. Both varieties started from seed, by me. The Stripes are producing BIG, both in fruit size and number. The San Marzanos look like large pear shaped cherry tomatoes.

I am in South Central KY, she is a good 100 miles away in NW Tennessee, having the same issue with San Marzanos! Hers were bought as plants.

No answer, sorry, just commiseration!

Nancy

I agree with one of the other posters that it's best to take the tomato plant out of its container (no matter which type of container) prior to transplanting. I go as far as to break the root ball to "free" the roots. Otherwise, you get a limited root system and small fruit. Nurseries sell products to prevent transplant shock, and while I'm sure they don't hurt, they're probably not 100% necessary.

Since your plant is in the ground, you could take something like a yard stick or similar device and poke it into the ground as far as it'll go and it might help break the bottom of that biodegradable pot and maybe free the balled-up roots.

Picked my first one last night! Not entirely ripe, but since rain was predicted for today, I didn't want it to split. It was one of my mystery tomatoes from my Glacier seed pack. A little over two ounces. Have more blushing on the same plant and fruits start to blush on both of my Stupices! So excited to start having ripe tomatoes!

That is great. I have picked 3 so far ; One BB and 2 siletz. BB was real small, maybe less than 2 oz but Siletz were about 6 oz.

I have read that tomatoes should be fine in pH range like 5.6 to 7.2 but 5.2 would be way too low. I would add fast acting lime. Probably the soil test has also made some recommendation on how to deal with low pH situation. I would shoot for like 6.8 as optimum level for 99% of garden vegetables. But anything from 6.2 and up should be fine in the short run.

OTOH, changing pH takes time and cannot be done overnight. The best time is in the fall , to add lime and let it work.

Could this be my problem?

Definitely. Plus compost isn't going to neutralize soil pH within one season and most compost has a pH of around 7 not 8. 3" of compost will decompose fairly quickly and the soil will return to its native pH.

Dissolving some lime in water to use on the plants may get you through this season but I can't begin to know how much or how often. You'll have to let the plant appearce tell you if it is working or not.

Then this fall consider liming the soil well so it has time to work before next year.

Hope this helps.

Dave