16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

I let the wind and random insects do most of the work since most of it happens before the blooms even open. I might rattle some cages now and then while in the garden or finger-flick a cluster of blossoms as I walk by but otherwise mine do just fine without brushing their teeth. :)
Dave

Tomatoes are self pollinating. The female part (stigma ?) is wrapped with the male parts that provide the pollens. Probably they don't even need winds since the pollens are right there surrounding the stigma. And probably there are thousands of them where just one is needed (like sperm in mammals). That is why crossing tomatoes is very difficult task.


I suspect it's a nutrient deficiency, and that you could solve the problem next year by adding some manure or compost to your soil. What kind of Miracle Grow did you use? I know that they sell one that is a compost.
Mulching the surface would also help to keep the moisture in, and something organic could be dug into the soil to add more nutrients for the following year.
Linda

Thank you seysonn, and labredors, for your comments,
As far as the Miracle Grow, I just chose the one I could afford, not sure the name other than Miracle Grow, and that it had a lot of the nutrients that I needed to bring the pH balance to match the label of the seed.
I have gone back an checked the pH again and it's still were it should be for the two packs of seed I bought, I also bought three large plants, one Big boy one Beefsteak and one hybrid. They may have been planted below the 6 inches of Miracle Grow, because they were in large ten inch deep pot, I removed them from the pots and have always use the potting soil that came in the pot leaving as they came...
So far I'm not too worried because the tomatoes though small are really good, I can live with them being small.
I do have a bag of compost that hasn't been opened but that shouldn't be add to growing plants, right?
Thank again,

I think all you can do is play the odds. Determine which is more important to you - trying to salvage the plants from Early Blight (which given your weather description is very slim odds anyway) or saving the money and time spent spraying.
Factors: Are you sure it is just Early Blight? If not then it is a whole different ballgame.
How much Early Blight is there? If only a small to moderate amount just remove the affected foliage and ignore it. If a really bad infestation there isn't much hope anyway so save the money and take what you can get.
How effective is the copper proving to be? It is a good preventative spray before the disease develops but doesn't do much after the fact.
Dave

Welcome to the forum and to container gardening. There are many of us who container garden, myself included. It's another way to garden and has it's own challenges. I've switched from containers to smart pots which are fabric and really like them. If you go to the container forum you will learn a great deal about container mix, Al's 5-1-1 mix which many of us use with great results. Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention XX is the heading. Good luck and keep us posted. Are you able to put those buckets on something to elevate them a bit off the hot concrete? Also, fertilizing frequently but in weaker concentration is important with growing in containers.
Sharon

I've been fighting the EB too, and the plant that seems to get it the worst is the husky red cherry tomato. My other plants are susceptible but that plant always gets it worse. The other plant that was really susceptible was the Bonnie patio tomato (which is gone now, RIP). They both have bigger thickish textured dark green leaves. My yellow pear cherry tomato doesn't seem nearly as susceptible and it has very small, smoother, delicate leaves. Maybe those bigger leaves take longer to dry after the rain because they collect more water, or the size reduces air circulation for the whole plant somehow?
The patio tomato wound up getting stripped of all it's leaves and then I killed it and made fried green tomatoes with whatever I couldn't get to ripen. I have been able to keep the EB in check on the other plants by picking the diseased leaves off as soon as I see any evidence, and I spray the whole plants down with copper spray until dripping. I have also brought out a fan onto the balcony to increase circulation, which seems to help.

seysonn - thanks for all the info!
My tomatoes and I are very much looking forward to the coming heat wave. I'm hoping to finally start seeing some ripen with the higher temps. Have you harvested any yet? I have lots of fruit, but no signs yet of ripening.


They don't look like they dried out enough to drop the blossoms. No yellow leaves or nothing like that.
And the pictures do not show blossom drop... blossom drop is when the entire flower falls off at the knuckle, no. Yours are still attached and just look like the flowers have run their course. Are you sure there are not small fruits inside the dried flower petals?

I've developed a little bit of a system for transplanting (or maybe I've discovered something everyone already knewlol). I like to move my plants out into the parking lot to get full sun and so I don't want to have to move a big pot until I have to. I've been using the black plastic pots that you buy for 89 cents or whatever. I buy them in several sizes. When the plant outgrows the pot, I water the plant really well and then I cut the bottom off of the smaller pot and place the whole thing in the bigger pot. Then I cut down the side and peel the smaller pot off completely, and fill up the rest of the big pot with soil.
Right now I have a yellow pear cherry tomato plant in a 5 gallon bucket and it has clearly outgrown it, but I am scared to death to attempt to transplant it. It is 6 feet tall, in a tomato ring cage and like 50000 bamboo stakes to supplement that stupid wimpy cage. It looked so small when I got it and since the tomatoes are small I thought it would be fine in a pot! (Which, now that I think about it, makes NO sense). Turns out they grow up to 12 feet high. whoops.

I have that for the first time ever this year. They attack the big red (or just turning red in one spot) "Mortgage Maker" tomatoes which are about 4-5" dia right now, only the ones near the ground so far but they ripen first anyway. I am sprinkling sulfer powder on the ground, putting out water for them, and most of all I check daily and pick the ones just starting to turn before they get deep soft red. Putting them in a paper bag in the house lets them ripen fully without being eaten. They do try to bite green ones too but with little reward. Last year was the hottest of any state ever in Oklahoma but this year looks to make up for it. Everything lush.

What animal eats only the red ripe tomatoes. These bites are big. Not rabbit or squirrel size. Today while looking at the deck I saw a big animal in the bush outside of the deck. It was big. Didn't look to be a raccoon but as big as one. It looked like it was trying to either get on the deck or back down this tall leafy weed. This creature looked big enough to take the big bites out of the red tomatoes. What is it and how do I get rid of it? Thanks for your help!

Just noting that Cherokee Green Grape was bred by Mark Korney, so not an heirloom and Box Car Willie as well as Mule Team, Pasture, Red Barn and Great Divide were bred by Joe Bratka's father and are not heirlooms.
But for me taste comes first rather than deciding if this or that variety is an heirloom, and that works for me but some others are much more strict about it. LOL
And the last issue I never want to see is a thread about how to decide the definition of an heirloom. Fact is there are many definitions and not just one accepted one. So when I see threads about that I just go read a good book and nibble on some great chocolate and watch some tennis on TV if it's on.LOL
Last so called fact. There are many many threads here at GW already on that topic and a search will bring them up for anyone interested, so we don't have to go through what Yogi Berra once said, which was.....it's deja vue all over again.LOL
Carolyn, is it vu or vue, my French is somewhat lacking. ( smile)

Correction, not all 17 varieties I'm growing are heirlooms I should have said some of these are heirlooms :). Sometimes my fingers type faster than my mind works.
This gettin' old ain't for sissies. I'm into growing a lot of heirloom beans not all but most so I have 'heirloom on the brain', is that a disease by any chance LOL.
Annette

If you get 8 hours, that is pretty good. 5 to 6 hours is on the lower limit. I get about 5 hours direct sun plus lots of indirect and defused light. Not perfect but I am doing ok. In addition to light heat is also a factor. If your highs are 80F to 90F that can help a lot. With peppers, higher temperatures is a plus.

I have a similar situation. I get lots of indirect light, and some dappled sun in the morning, but I get full sun from 10:30am to 2:00pm and full sun on the tops of most of the plants until 4pm. We are getting tomatoes, not a bumper crop for sure, but we are getting them.



Seeing a photo would really help. The diescription is just too vague.
It could just be cracking that has gotten infected with mold, it could be a fungus disease called Gray Mold, or it could be damage from tomato fruitworms.
Dave





Look at harvest maturity dates....and go for it. I just planted two more yesterday.
If you don't have frost you can grow tomatoes all year round. Same with peppers, they just grow slower in cold weather. And there are specific varieties that are known to grow in cooler weather...such as Oregon Spring, Stupice,Siletz, and possibly Legend. And there are plenty of other varieties, like Russian tomatoes, you could try.
We still have at least 4 months of warm weather...you should be able to grow any tomatoes right now...I'm more worried about having tomato varieties that produce in hot weather. The ones I mentioned above are for experimenting with in December.