16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
seysonn- Yeah... that's why I said it's a bother. :) I use it occasionally to insert links but prefer not to mess with it.
Daisyjoy5- Sorry for going off topic.
Rodney
This post was edited by theforgottenone1013 on Wed, Jun 25, 14 at 17:08
i should have mentioned the pots are about a foot or longer radius at top.
Radius or diameter? If you mean a foot in diameter then sorry but that is a too small pot for either of those plants. It might do ok with a patio or dwarf size plant, maybe even with a small determinate variety. But both of the varieties you named are huge indeterminate variety plants that normally reach 8'+ tall and over 4-5 feet wide. They would need a pot at least 2x bigger.
Most first time growers have no idea how big a tomato plant and its root ball gets and while the two you picked aren't the biggest plants by far, they are still huge plants if you want them to develop fruit.
Dave
doh. definitely about a foot in -diameter-. Was typing quick while at work and not really expecting more (generous) replies.
i'll consider your advice on transporting them to bigger pots. Was more concerned about lack of sunlight.
thanks again, you're all very helpful!
jo
Romcorn, I used Vigoro potting mix. I think it's basically a home depot store brand. I think it's got some fertilizer mixed in.
So far I haven't done too much feeding. I think I hit them once this season with Pennington all purpose fertilizer (hose end sprayer).
I started the plants myself and would feed them with a dilute 10-10-10 when they were seedlings.
Let me ask this another way. Lets say relative humidity is normal and the wind is not blowing. The air temperature is 95 degrees and the sun is beating down on the tomato plant. There is adequate moisture in the soil. The soil temperature is say 75 degrees. Is transpiration cooling the plant or keeping the plant temperature down some? Will the transpiration stop due to an inability to keep up with water loss by evaporation versus an inability of the roots to take enough water up? What is the limiting factor here, water uptake? And does the shade cloth come into play by not allowing the sun to heat the plant up even more, ie raise the plant temperature above air temperature? I have read a lot about air temperature and soil temperature but not much about actual plant or tomato temperature and wonder what the role of these might be. How do all of these things interact, transpiration, water availability in soil, direct sunlight, air temperature, soil temperature and what role does shade cloth play? I get it with relative humidity and wind and so left these factors out.
Lets say relative humidity is normal and the wind is not blowing. The air temperature is 95 degrees and the sun is beating down on the tomato plant. There is adequate moisture in the soil. The soil temperature is say 75 degrees. Is transpiration cooling the plant or keeping the plant temperature down some?
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Plants can cope with that for a while fine. But may not set fruits. Then it would depend on how many hours that condition will continue. Normally 95F high lasts just for a few hours (that is the peak). But sun can shine on all day. supplying more heat beyond 95F of surrounding air. Plants have ability to cool off by transpiration as humans do. But we are looking for a favorable condition. Thus comes the shading, reducing hours of direct sun. Here is an argument "for" limited direct sun. Plants don't need all that ( like 10 ++ hours of direct sun) for photosynthesis. In cool climate it can be beneficial as a heat source but in hot climate it can be detrimental.
No simple answer to that question. The organic choices are somewhat limited and results vary widely so it boils down to your choice of the options available. There are many discussions here about the various fungicides and their pros and cons.
Something copper-based works best IME but when gardening organically Early Blight is also just something we live with. When it gets bad enough you just pitch the plant and plant new ones.
The well-proven control is Daconil but it isn't organic.
Fungicides are not specific to a disease, just to all fungus caused diseases, so don't think of them as "a fungicide for Early Blight". The same fungicide works for all fungus diseases.
Nor are they cures. They can slow the spread but can only prevent if used from day 1 of plant-out.
Dave
I have both Daconil (inorganic) and Neem Oil (organic) concentrates. So there are choices.
I use Neem mostly on cukes and squash (Powdery mildew prevention and fight). I think Daconil is more effective fungicide on blight and similar disease prevention. Just yesterday I did an application of Daconile on my tomatoes. I will repeat in 2 weeks.
Like has been said, you don't "spend" $15 + $20 (sprayer + fungicide) on one plant. Out of that $35 you spend maybe less than 10 cents per plant, per application. If you do it 5 times in a season, that will be 50 cents per plant.
BTW, yesterday I spray all my tomato plants with Daconil for the first time this year, as a preventive measure. It took only 2.5 tsp of fungicide to do about 20 plants. I promised myself to repeat in 2 weeks. Prevention is always better than fighting. It is in a way like insurance policy.
Yeah, the plants are stressing a bit, but IMO it falls into the "normal" range of growth and shouldn't be a problem in the future as far as tomato production. The plants should grow fine. Any chance you could add more mix to the container and fill it up?
This post was edited by edweather on Tue, Jun 24, 14 at 19:10
Some people here will post/make comments if the OP is asking for help. Then you will see a big crowd hanging around, everybody wanting to help you with their expertise. But since you did not hint any need for help nobody has made a comment here(so far).
I had not heard the name Coyote Cherry tomato before. From your description I like it : Firstly it is early, secondly it has fewer seeds. I have always wished someday to meet a cherry tomato with less than a Zillion seeds :-)
Can you possibly post a picture of the plant and the fruits, please ? Thanks.
If you pull the pot off of the ground the plant will survive as well. I pull the tangled parts of the roots off of root bound plants when I plant them, as well as roughing up the side roots as well. I tried the being gentle with the same variety one year. While the ones I was gentle with looked better for the first week. The others passed it up in growth in the next few weeks. Just cut a couple of inches of lower branches. Then plant it a little deeper.
Then keep it watered properly. It will be fine.
Depending on when you planted out, probably your plants roots are still bound in the container. I would get a spade/shovel and take it out. Then cut the plastic pot onto piece, remove the plant and replant with least disturbance as possible. before replanting, prepare the hole, mix in potting soil, compost, fertilizer. Water it real good after planting to the point of flooding, to get the air pockets out.
This post was edited by seysonn on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 0:28
Agree with both the above. I use it because my soil consistently tests as Mg deficient because of its high pH but when it isn't needed, it isn't needed.
Some will claim it has other benefits but none of them has been research-documented. But yes, if you choose to use it then it needs to be used with some care. Not truly a "salt" but it can have similar effects when used in excess. The commonly seen recommendation for it is 1 T per gallon used as a root drench.
Dave
Hey Ryan - Do note that Epsom Salt also contains Sulfur. According to a research at University Of Florida, adding Sulfur to soil yield more tomatoes.
Plants such as tomatoes, peppers, and roses need high levels of magnesium for optimal growth. However, plants may not show the effects of magnesium deficiency until it's severe. Magnesium tends to be lacking in old, weathered soils with low pH, notably in the Southeast and Pacific Northwest.
Sulfur, a key element in plant growth, is critical to production of vitamins, amino acids (therefore protein), and enzymes.
Its proven that plants can absorb salts via foliar application (leaves/stems) which is why Weed Killers like Roundup work. My opinion is that Epsom salts when used as a foliar spray make these elements readily available to the plants.
I find adding Epsom Salts at least twice a season to boost yields. I use 2 tbsp per 2 gallon of water in a watering can and drench the leaves, stems and roots. Whether to believe it or not and use it is up to you. This is what makes gardening fun is that you should do what works for you and it doesn't hurt to try! Good luck!!
Here is a link that might be useful: Sulfur boosts tomato yields
This post was edited by djkj on Wed, Jun 25, 14 at 17:02
Dave brings up some good points, as usual. :-)
If you are in zone 5, I would not say that planting the end of May was too late. Especially this year, with the winter and early spring weâÂÂve had. Tomatoes and peppers, sweet potatoes, they all want heat and sun, right? We still have a lot of that ahead in July and August. If you can get your soil checked and stop adding anything more until you find out what the soil test says, you may still be able to get your garden growing.
I grow organically, so I donâÂÂt use synthetic fertilizers like 12-12-12 or Miracle Grow, so I donâÂÂt have experience with using those, but with synthetic fertilizers, thereâÂÂs always the possibility you are adding too much. The soil test will determine the level of nutrients in the soil as well as the PH.
I see you are adding grass clippings and I use those as well, but my own grass has not had anything applied to it and I do mix them with chopped brown leaves from the Fall. That is good organic matter, which your soil needs, if they have not been treated with any chemicals.
Not sure about using the leftover plant material. If it was healthy leftovers and they were broken up into smaller pieces that could be okay.
One thing that did catch my eye, is the crop growing next to your garden. Is that corn? Is it your own corn or a neighborâÂÂs? Do you know if it has had any pesticide sprayed on it or is a lot of synthetic fertilizer being used on that too?
Dave made a good point about soil temp...something i should consider, but i have had an unusual warm spring. Some tomatoes went in early and mulched. I doubt i should do that most years...
Looks like the whole shebang is maybe a un-composted pile. Too dense, too heavy, needs air. I would probably rake it all to one end and cover it for next year...the top 4 inches...make a good compost 'end row'. Then rake up some mound rows to plant in. Not a bust year at all.
Maybe just too much went in and is burning your roots. And soggy with such a dense mulch as grass tends to be. Un-composted kitchen scraps are wet and soggy for weeks....peppers may just got the lucky spot without much of that stuff?
Don't give up...got a good plot for upcoming seasons and even this year if problem gets solved...just let is rest and don't add anything for some time me thinks?