16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Mine is bushy and tall also. If I'm not careful, it looks like it could get out of control. Mine is in a smart pot also and it's very green and so far, very healthy and much more advanced than my other varieties.

They were planted 4 weeks ago outside

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That explains everything. 4 week from plant out is relatively a short time, considering that it take the plant about 10 days to get adjusted and start expanding root system.

No simple answer to that question. The organic choices are somewhat limited and results vary widely so it boils down to your choice of the options available. There are many discussions here about the various fungicides and their pros and cons.

Something copper-based works best IME but when gardening organically Early Blight is also just something we live with. When it gets bad enough you just pitch the plant and plant new ones.

The well-proven control is Daconil but it isn't organic.

Fungicides are not specific to a disease, just to all fungus caused diseases, so don't think of them as "a fungicide for Early Blight". The same fungicide works for all fungus diseases.

Nor are they cures. They can slow the spread but can only prevent if used from day 1 of plant-out.

Dave

I have both Daconil (inorganic) and Neem Oil (organic) concentrates. So there are choices.
I use Neem mostly on cukes and squash (Powdery mildew prevention and fight). I think Daconil is more effective fungicide on blight and similar disease prevention. Just yesterday I did an application of Daconile on my tomatoes. I will repeat in 2 weeks.

What brand of fungicide do you use?

Like has been said, you don't "spend" $15 + $20 (sprayer + fungicide) on one plant. Out of that $35 you spend maybe less than 10 cents per plant, per application. If you do it 5 times in a season, that will be 50 cents per plant.

BTW, yesterday I spray all my tomato plants with Daconil for the first time this year, as a preventive measure. It took only 2.5 tsp of fungicide to do about 20 plants. I promised myself to repeat in 2 weeks. Prevention is always better than fighting. It is in a way like insurance policy.

Yeah, the plants are stressing a bit, but IMO it falls into the "normal" range of growth and shouldn't be a problem in the future as far as tomato production. The plants should grow fine. Any chance you could add more mix to the container and fill it up?

This post was edited by edweather on Tue, Jun 24, 14 at 19:10

What is the variety ?
I was growing a Black Krim last year. Its leaves were curled (tubular) like that all summer. I had 3 other varieties in the same bed doing just fine. STRESS ?! from what condition ?
Here is a BK

Seysonn - thank you. I will pay attention to the soil also. What nutrients are most important for tomatoes?

When daytime temps approach the mid-90s, fruit won't set.

If you pull the pot off of the ground the plant will survive as well. I pull the tangled parts of the roots off of root bound plants when I plant them, as well as roughing up the side roots as well. I tried the being gentle with the same variety one year. While the ones I was gentle with looked better for the first week. The others passed it up in growth in the next few weeks. Just cut a couple of inches of lower branches. Then plant it a little deeper.

Then keep it watered properly. It will be fine.

Depending on when you planted out, probably your plants roots are still bound in the container. I would get a spade/shovel and take it out. Then cut the plastic pot onto piece, remove the plant and replant with least disturbance as possible. before replanting, prepare the hole, mix in potting soil, compost, fertilizer. Water it real good after planting to the point of flooding, to get the air pockets out.

This post was edited by seysonn on Fri, Jun 27, 14 at 0:28

AGG is late but very delicious !

Yep! AGG is on my "must plant" list every year, but since mine didn't take off I was thinking/wondering if it was a good time to try a different type.

If it was indeed caused by stink bugs, you should've seen a herd of them all over.

This post was edited by seysonn on Mon, Jun 23, 14 at 15:17

DING DING DING!! The winners are stink bugs! found about 3 on a few of the tomato's yesterday!! I was like "there you stinkers are!" lol Thanks everyone for the help I will keep and eye out daily for them now and keep them picked off.

Agree with both the above. I use it because my soil consistently tests as Mg deficient because of its high pH but when it isn't needed, it isn't needed.

Some will claim it has other benefits but none of them has been research-documented. But yes, if you choose to use it then it needs to be used with some care. Not truly a "salt" but it can have similar effects when used in excess. The commonly seen recommendation for it is 1 T per gallon used as a root drench.

Dave

Hey Ryan - Do note that Epsom Salt also contains Sulfur. According to a research at University Of Florida, adding Sulfur to soil yield more tomatoes.

Plants such as tomatoes, peppers, and roses need high levels of magnesium for optimal growth. However, plants may not show the effects of magnesium deficiency until it's severe. Magnesium tends to be lacking in old, weathered soils with low pH, notably in the Southeast and Pacific Northwest.

Sulfur, a key element in plant growth, is critical to production of vitamins, amino acids (therefore protein), and enzymes.

Its proven that plants can absorb salts via foliar application (leaves/stems) which is why Weed Killers like Roundup work. My opinion is that Epsom salts when used as a foliar spray make these elements readily available to the plants.

I find adding Epsom Salts at least twice a season to boost yields. I use 2 tbsp per 2 gallon of water in a watering can and drench the leaves, stems and roots. Whether to believe it or not and use it is up to you. This is what makes gardening fun is that you should do what works for you and it doesn't hurt to try! Good luck!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Sulfur boosts tomato yields

This post was edited by djkj on Wed, Jun 25, 14 at 17:02

Where Does The Water GO ?

Let us take a 5 gal bucket as an easy example.
You full watered it, meaning a 100% saturation.

Lets say that 5 gal. dry potting soil (zero moisture) needs ONE gallon of water to become fully saturated. How about 1/2 gallon?

Now, what happens to that amount of water ? Being a plastic, very little or nothing can be lost due to evaporation. Then any loss must be due to the plant's taking it up and evaporating.

I DON'T THING PLANT CAN EVAPORATE that much water in one or 2 days. Your Mileage May Vary.

So in reality (IMO) when you think you are watering your plant, you are actually giving it a bath, a cold shower to cool it down a bit.

Another point, you need to continue to fertilize frequently as well, a diluted solution every couple of days. Dave and Ohiofem can verify that. I don't have a drip irrigation system either and I can't attest to it, but I think you can fertigate at the same time? I use 15&20 gallon grow bags and when it's really hot I water once a day at the very least if not twice a day.
Sharon

"Are you growing in a greenhouse or using hydroponics?"

Wasn't initially planning on it, but I have a greenhouse for winter crops (gets too cold here to just put them outside) with only about half the space filled up, so thanks for the warning! Hadn't seen that part of the label :)

Thank you for all your input. I grow non-GMO & organic so I will try to see if I can find Sun Gold. I'll look at others besides Bing.

Have a charmed day! - MD

Hi just thought I'd add my two cents. I'm growing Sun Sugar which I prefer over Sun Gold but they are similar, sun sugar is a hybrid. I grew Gold Nugget last year and did not care for it, but again, it's a personal choice. I found the fruit split a great deal. Taste was so so for me. I do like Black Cherry and I'm growing Amys Apricot and Jaune Flamme this year for the first time so time will tell!

Interesting. Yes I completely agree that the white stuff looks like the colony mass for Flatid Planthoppers, but I've never seen anything like the pictures of the adult insects or the spikier instars on my own plants, but the insects in rbeedi's second photo surely do look like the adult planthoppers.

After doing some research online, the flatid planthopper looks like a very possible suspect. I have submitted some information and pictures to the local extension service as well to see what they say. They dont seem to be doing any damage to the plants. I sprayed some water on them last night and all the white stuff came off and white bugs went hopping in all directions.

I have tried different methods of rooting suckers and I prefer using a clear or semi-transparent cup filled with only perlite. I put a couple of tiny holes about half an inch up from the bottom and water it daily until the roots start showing. It usually takes about 10 days for a good root system to form.

Contrary to what most people have already posted, leaf branches will also root and put out their own growing tips, but it will just take longer than using a sucker.

I just stick the sucker in the ground, water well, 9 out 10 times, new tomato plant