16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Are you talking about what are called the "wispy foliage" varieties? If so then Tatiana's lists hundreds of them.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Wispy foliage varieties
I like your dog. He was more thirsty that those plants. Reminded me of my German Sheppard.
About you question:
I would look at it this way. Say they have a DTM of 75 days. Then you should expect some ripe fruit roughly in September.
Today I just pulled several of them but mine were much smaller.
But if you have space, it should be fun to experiment.
thanks for your reply
I never really can figure out the DTM thing as opposed to when the plant actually started to grow - when it comes to volunteer or seed starts vs market bought. even after transplant they seem to be in a holding pattern until they decide "game on" and grow and some click sooner than others.
I pulled my last harvest around oct 20 last year so hopefully I will get something out of them - I just want to know what they are - there are at least four varieties of volunteers that came up. I don't know if they are from my last years plants or from the foreign compost I used in my potting mix or some of both. The ones I did not move are quite a bit ahead of the transplants.
I have always had a few volunteers but this year was crazy - they popped up everywhere.
they are just and experiment I am putting the pots out in front of the house - curious to see how they fare out there.
The dog is my watering buddy - cant do anything with water without him on it - he is obsessed - kindler and gentler with the watering can than the hose which he attacks.
I'm having the exact same problems with these Triple L Crop tomatoes. They appear to have pollinated, but refuse to grow. These plants are 70+ days old, lots of blossoms, I pollinate daily by tapping the plants, and this is the result. Not a single flower has grown beyond the point in the photo. Other varieties of tomatoes are doing just fine. Super frustrating!
Sorry for the misspelling and thanks for correcting.
I don't see any cost to anybody or harm either. I did not start a new thread, just activated an existing one.
There is nothing wrong with it. PLUS we want to talk about our own experience with our own plants that we are growing. Maybe we can share tips too. At any rate , it is not forced on anybody to comment an partake. Also, this is about growth habit among other things. So just bear with me. Thank you !
Here is a picture of my RC ML.
It still has relatively light green foliage. I water and fertilize it the same way as my other plants. But different plants exhibit different (slightly) foliage color. This I have know for a long time about pepper plants.
BER is a characteristic of some varieties, specifically Roma and related to it, like San Marzano .....
If it was a characteristic of the variety itself rather than the growing conditions then it wouldn't be possible to grow any of them without BER and that isn't the case.
While some paste tomatoes show a higher incidence of developing BER, it is due to their structure when the contributing causes of BER exist. When those conditions do not exist paste tomatoes grow just fine.
Dave
it is due to their structure when the contributing causes of BER exist.
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Boils down to the same thing that I said. So that is a characteristic.
I should have said ONE of the chracteristics ( a = ONE)...... That is also called being "BER PRONE". Again a (=ONE) characteristic.
And we know that BER problem does not continue all season long. That is why you can grow them.
Finally, you better express your own opinion rather than continuing your fault finding mission in my posts.
You did a good thing by immediately sticking it in water. It should root just fine and you can replant it after it gets a good root system going (at least, that has been my experience.) And if there is anything left of what's still in the ground, it should send out new growth (what some folks call "suckers") so you will end up with 2 plants for the price of one :) So I hope it turns out to be a yummy kind!
Edie
Here's a thread from a bit further down the page which discusses rooting tomato branches:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg0612592910286.html?20
Just to add another way it can be done ;-) several years ago, in July or August, I broke a branch off one of my grape tomatoes. I didn't even cut the baby tomatoes off (and I should have), just stuck the branch in the soil, mulched around it, and watered it when I watered the other tomatoes in that part of the garden.
It looked pretty bad for awhile, but recovered and gave me a couple of dozen grapes -- some of which were the same fruit which had already formed before I broke and planted the branch. [I'm not recommending that you treat your plant that way! Keeping it partly shaded for a while is definitely a good idea.]
OK, thanks! I know there's no such thing as disease or pest proof but it seems that every year we have one variety or another that is worse than the others for catching every disease known to man (well, not really but you know what I mean LOL!) So I will just have to wait and see. And have a couple of extra height-extenders handy just in case. Another adventure!!
Edie
Bear Creek was bred by Keith Mueller, who has bred many wonderful varieties.
The link below gives some background on Bear Creek a as well as his others and also what he's working on now.
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Bear Creek
Don't know that you did anything wrong. From all I have been reading lately it seems to be a common problem with grafted plants whether you do them or buy them.
I know various types of supports are sold for supporting the graft point but it seems that it remains a weak point in the plant no matter how big/strong/old it gets. A real drawback to the use of grafted plants.
Some research seems to indicate that method of planting has some effect - graft point must be above the soil level and must remain above the soil level throughout the season. So mulching or any other activity around the base of the plant can create changing soil levels creates issues.
The method of splinting the graft point also seems to make a big different. Some clips apparently apply too much pressure and damage the epidermis, others don't expand enough as the stem diameter grows.
All in all, many possible causes, several beyond your control. Solution recommendations seem to vary widely.
Personally, it seems another example of the wasted effort and time except in those cases where one is plagued with the virus contaminated soil they were developed to resist.
Dave
Shep - you might post this over on the Florida Gardening forum for recommendations from local growers.
In theory you can grow any variety you wish as it is the very different planting times you have to be concerned with rather than the variety.
That said, the University of Florida recommends the following large fruit varieties for growing in Central FL:
Celebrity
Heat Wave II
Better Boy
Beefmaster
Amelia
Southern Star
BHN640
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Best Varieties for Central Florida
Regular :
"1.arranged in or constituting a constant or definite pattern, especially with the same space between individual instances. "
So by definition if , say Cherokee Purple has "Regular" leaves then a tomato with "carrot" leaves (like Silvery Fir Tree) do not fit into the same class, being regular
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Sorry, but I don't understand what you are trying to say when you talk about a definite pattern and same space between "instances"
That sounds to me more like an attempt to define internode distances which define the difference between ind and det varieties.
You can see from the FAQ that RL leaves have the normal indentations along the leaf edge, while most PL leaves do not, although there are 5 versions of PL leaves that have been recognized.
And heaven knows how many versions of RL leaves since the indentations along the leaf edge can vary considerably from variety to variety to variety as can leaf width, etc.
So, SFT does not have varietgated foliage, it doesn't have angora foliage, it doesn't have PL foliage, it doesn't have rugose foliage,what it has is a version of RL foliage.
I linked below to one picture which shows the foliage pretty well, but you can do a Google search for the variety and IMAGES come up and you can click on those as well
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Foliage of SFT
If the scars are hard , then maybe, the tomato was chewed by some insect and the scars initiated. My guess is that if it was BER, you would've seen more tomatoes affected than just one. Additionally the presence of 2 separate scars says something. Another point is that YOU HAVE DESCRIBED THEM AS SCARS not rot.
Although the rot happens to be on the blossom side but it does not automatically mean BER. Not every rot is BER. The cause of BER is unique.
The bottom line is that you have a single bad fruit. as long as you dont get repeats that should not be a concern.
Thanks everyone for your input. I called them as scars because I have been watching them turn from small abrasions to their current state and they are not soft like a rot.
I will keep you guys posted about how things go for this plant.