16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

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ediej1209(5 N Central OH)

You did a good thing by immediately sticking it in water. It should root just fine and you can replant it after it gets a good root system going (at least, that has been my experience.) And if there is anything left of what's still in the ground, it should send out new growth (what some folks call "suckers") so you will end up with 2 plants for the price of one :) So I hope it turns out to be a yummy kind!

Edie

    Bookmark     June 23, 2014 at 12:51PM
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missingtheobvious(Blue Ridge 7a)

Here's a thread from a bit further down the page which discusses rooting tomato branches:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg0612592910286.html?20

Just to add another way it can be done ;-) several years ago, in July or August, I broke a branch off one of my grape tomatoes. I didn't even cut the baby tomatoes off (and I should have), just stuck the branch in the soil, mulched around it, and watered it when I watered the other tomatoes in that part of the garden.

It looked pretty bad for awhile, but recovered and gave me a couple of dozen grapes -- some of which were the same fruit which had already formed before I broke and planted the branch. [I'm not recommending that you treat your plant that way! Keeping it partly shaded for a while is definitely a good idea.]

    Bookmark     June 23, 2014 at 1:32PM
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ediej1209(5 N Central OH)

OK, thanks! I know there's no such thing as disease or pest proof but it seems that every year we have one variety or another that is worse than the others for catching every disease known to man (well, not really but you know what I mean LOL!) So I will just have to wait and see. And have a couple of extra height-extenders handy just in case. Another adventure!!
Edie

    Bookmark     June 23, 2014 at 1:12PM
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carolyn137(z4/5 NY)

Bear Creek was bred by Keith Mueller, who has bred many wonderful varieties.

The link below gives some background on Bear Creek a as well as his others and also what he's working on now.

Carolyn

Here is a link that might be useful: Bear Creek

    Bookmark     June 23, 2014 at 1:31PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Don't know that you did anything wrong. From all I have been reading lately it seems to be a common problem with grafted plants whether you do them or buy them.

I know various types of supports are sold for supporting the graft point but it seems that it remains a weak point in the plant no matter how big/strong/old it gets. A real drawback to the use of grafted plants.

Some research seems to indicate that method of planting has some effect - graft point must be above the soil level and must remain above the soil level throughout the season. So mulching or any other activity around the base of the plant can create changing soil levels creates issues.

The method of splinting the graft point also seems to make a big different. Some clips apparently apply too much pressure and damage the epidermis, others don't expand enough as the stem diameter grows.

All in all, many possible causes, several beyond your control. Solution recommendations seem to vary widely.

Personally, it seems another example of the wasted effort and time except in those cases where one is plagued with the virus contaminated soil they were developed to resist.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 23, 2014 at 11:40AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Shep - you might post this over on the Florida Gardening forum for recommendations from local growers.

In theory you can grow any variety you wish as it is the very different planting times you have to be concerned with rather than the variety.

That said, the University of Florida recommends the following large fruit varieties for growing in Central FL:

Celebrity
Heat Wave II
Better Boy
Beefmaster
Amelia
Southern Star
BHN640

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Best Varieties for Central Florida

    Bookmark     June 23, 2014 at 11:28AM
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yardenman(z7 MD)

My Cherokee Purple has 6 fruits and the Brandywnes look healthier than usual., and I planted them "late" this year. I'm thinking "late" is better than "early".

    Bookmark     June 23, 2014 at 5:13AM
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carolyn137(z4/5 NY)

Regular :
"1.arranged in or constituting a constant or definite pattern, especially with the same space between individual instances. "

So by definition if , say Cherokee Purple has "Regular" leaves then a tomato with "carrot" leaves (like Silvery Fir Tree) do not fit into the same class, being regular

&&&&&

Sorry, but I don't understand what you are trying to say when you talk about a definite pattern and same space between "instances"

That sounds to me more like an attempt to define internode distances which define the difference between ind and det varieties.

You can see from the FAQ that RL leaves have the normal indentations along the leaf edge, while most PL leaves do not, although there are 5 versions of PL leaves that have been recognized.

And heaven knows how many versions of RL leaves since the indentations along the leaf edge can vary considerably from variety to variety to variety as can leaf width, etc.

So, SFT does not have varietgated foliage, it doesn't have angora foliage, it doesn't have PL foliage, it doesn't have rugose foliage,what it has is a version of RL foliage.

I linked below to one picture which shows the foliage pretty well, but you can do a Google search for the variety and IMAGES come up and you can click on those as well

Carolyn

Here is a link that might be useful: Foliage of SFT

    Bookmark     June 23, 2014 at 9:51AM
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fireduck(10a)

For container growers....it is critical NOT to use MG "moisture control" potting mix. It holds way to much water and creates muck near the bottom of the container. Most tomato growers prune lower leaves to avoid all the dreaded fungal/bacterial issues which are so common to maters. Remove damaged/diseased leaves at bottom, and spray.

    Bookmark     June 22, 2014 at 8:09PM
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thebutcher(6b (Philadelphia area))

I hear you with that Fire Duck, But it was regulaur MG and the rest of my container mixes I have in 5-1-1 mix from last year which I replenished. But here is a video that i just made this evening (at leat one part)

This was my attempt today :)

Look below, I just planted a Black Krim and Black Cherry.

In all do time Those Maters will grow :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Mr Beno Link

This post was edited by thebutcher on Sun, Jun 22, 14 at 22:20

    Bookmark     June 22, 2014 at 10:18PM
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donna_in_sask

Out of six children, I am the only gardener. I like to grow fruits and vegetables that taste better homegrown like tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, cukes....Stuff that takes up too much room, is dirt cheap in the Fall, or is bothered by pests, I can buy those at the grocery store.

I must admit that I simplified my gardening as I got older. These days, I only plant what we can reasonably consume. The first couple of years I gardened, I canned over two hundred jars of pickles, relishes, tomatoes...some of it got used but some got tossed a few years later.

I don't see it as a money saving venture because I can certainly afford to buy whatever I need in the stores...I garden because I like doing it and it is rewarding to eat flavourful, fresh food.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2014 at 8:28PM
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zeuspaul(9b SoCal)

I can grow my own tomatoes for less than $3 per pound for a nice heirloom at the local market. However I go without before spending that much for a tomato. I grow them because it's a passion.

I can't compete with a 106 oz can of tomato puree from Costco for $2.79. I don't know how they do it. If you figure two pounds of tomatoes reduces to one pound for puree it works out to about 20 cents per pound. I buy the puree and then make marinara sauce from it cheaper than I can grow it or buy prepared sauce.

Lettuce is a little different. We used to spend six bucks a week for lettuce, 3 bags times $2 each. A setup for lettuce costs me about $20 for an 18 inch container, potting soil, cage and shade cap. If it lasts five years that's four bucks a year for one setup. It takes about five weeks to grow out an 18 inch rosette and then a week or so downtime. That works out to about eight harvests per year. One eighteen inch head easily matches a bag of lettuce so I am saving about sixteen bucks a year less four for a total of twelve dollars in savings per container. And the lettuce tastes better.

Zeuspaul

    Bookmark     June 22, 2014 at 9:21PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

Aphids, with wings, bend legs ?!?
I agree wit "fori" on Second one : grasshopper/cricket or something in that category.

    Bookmark     June 22, 2014 at 1:36PM
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dbrown2351(5)

Here is a link to an aphid photo for comparison. Wings and all.

Here is a link that might be useful: aphid photo

    Bookmark     June 22, 2014 at 1:42PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

fusion checked it out and diagnosed it - Gray Leaf Spot. Needs fungicides.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 22, 2014 at 11:44AM
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vinnybob(z8Oregon)

The first tomatoes don't always taste right, so I would wait until the next few show up to judge them. I have read somewhere that say Legend is a semi-determinate. I was thinking of growing Legend next year so let us know what you think of them later on. Thank you.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2014 at 7:59PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

I am growing several Legends, for the first time this season. No fruits yet but I know they are DET, for sure.
I will report on the fruits when I get some.
OSU site has a full description on Legend. Its important characteristic is that it can set fruit both in cold weather and hot weather. Fruit size can definitely can vary and taste is more of a subjective thing. But nobody can say a sweet tomato is sour.

    Bookmark     June 22, 2014 at 4:23AM
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donna_in_sask

I know you said you have only the two plants in the whole container, but that one plant looks like it has at least four, if not five, stems coming from the base...which usually means more than one plant.

You need a much larger pot if you want any degree of success. There have been years where I've started too many plants and have simply plunked them into whatever was available and those plants never did produce much.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2014 at 3:57AM
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sharonrossy(Montreal 5B)

Agree, much too shallow for a tomato plant. Don't use regular soil in a container. You need a soilless mixture and you need to fertilize on a regular basis when using containers. Make sure you add lime to the mixture and that the fertilizer doesn't have too high of a nitrogen ratio, or you will get lots of foliage and no fruit.
Sharon

    Bookmark     June 21, 2014 at 8:23PM
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seysonn(8a WA/HZ 1)

It is normal for some of the lower leaves to grow downward.
%%%%%%%%%%

Ohiofem,
The op's plant has other problem : i.e. th stem's growth end is pointing downward. Unless it is a genetic characteristic of the variety, that is abnormal and that case plant is not healthy.
JMO

    Bookmark     June 21, 2014 at 2:50AM
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Ohiofem(6a Ohio)

Seysonn: I agree. I was addressing my comment to Lydamay, whose plant looks different.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2014 at 10:11AM
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aquarian1228

It's in the ground... I'll try and get a picture this afternoon. at this point it's completely flopped over and taking over the plants next to it. I don't have any cages :(

    Bookmark     June 21, 2014 at 8:37AM
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jimmy56_gw (zone 6 PA)

I think you can carefully lift up the main stem and tie it to a pole or stake.

    Bookmark     June 21, 2014 at 8:49AM
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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

They look a bit under fed, and over watered, but hard to tell from the photos.

Just curious, did you remove the peat pot before planting?

    Bookmark     June 20, 2014 at 12:42AM
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gin_gin(5)

I planted plants about that size exactly 4 weeks ago. Mine are now about 3 feet tall. Have you fertilized at all? I'll also echo Ed's question, did you leave those peat pots on the Bonnie plants?

    Bookmark     June 20, 2014 at 11:37PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

The 5x10 sheets are already rusted sitting at Home Depot, is it ok to use them like that as I've seen ones standing and they are no longer rusty, or do you have to paint them or just not use?

Remesh (aka CRW)? Yes they usually rusted and used that way with no problem. It is just an appearance issue not one of function. Rust (iron oxide) is a normal component of soil. But sure you can paint them if you want to.

There are many different kinds of galvanized fencing that can be used too as in Korney's pics above. Big hardware stores and lumber yards will have a wider selection of options than HD does. And how many cages you can get out of one panel or roll all depends on the diameter you want them to be.

OTOH if you are talking about cattle panels being rusted, that would be very unusual.

Dave

    Bookmark     June 20, 2014 at 1:04PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

Do you have local Tractor Supply?

In my area the CRW is cheaper and a heavier grade than HD or Lowes.

You might also want to check Craigslist or another local advertizement place. We have the SC Market Bulletin here, which is all farm related.

I picked up a 100' roll of CRW and a 75' roll of galvanized steel fencing for $50 from a Craigslist ad a few years ago!

    Bookmark     June 20, 2014 at 2:16PM
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