16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
I am growing some stripy too. But I have not done it in the past.
I think, perhaps, the strips should appear when the fruits ripen.
Mine have just flowers now.
I got this picture from internet. The shape of the fruits is just like what you have in the photo
This post was edited by seysonn on Wed, May 21, 14 at 8:41
Seeing the shape of the fruit in the picture gives me some hope that it is indeed a Mr Stripey. If not I am going to eat the fruit off of it anyway. I planted it to have a couple of different tomatoes.
My Black Prince plant has one fruit showing nice color to it. I am hoping it will be ripe in a week or so.
They don't seem to have minded the rrrrip.
Very healthy.
I like to give mine a re-potting rest for a week or so. But that is just being motherly, like sending a kid out on a rainy chilly morn without a coat. "tough it up kid, it will be warm and sunny in a few hours".
Seeing a pic of healthy fellas, i would not hesitate to plant.
Without a pic i would have visualized some sad lost forgotten starving seedlings that might have needed some adjustment time...
(pics are so important)
You may be able to fight the urge by looking at the plants. If they are doing OK, looking great, green, etc, then you are having some of the good conditions for them to be just fine.
Even with watering schedule, you find different ideas and plans because people have different experiences and details about their tomato growth.
Read all about it, take what is good and useful to you, and adjust as needed to make your plants thrive. Even next month or next season, you may have to adjust your thinking to overcome a new problem that wasn't there earlier.
Staking requires a lot of pruning and tying up. Often ONE stake per plant is not enough, IF you allow additional side branches. So , in my raised beds I do a combination of staking and FLORIDA WEAVE.. For this method you have to do different kind of staking and run rope/twines to keep the top supported and confined, in addition to tying. So, I think caging is the most simple and convenient way for a beginner. Cages made of cattle panel fencing and/or CRW are better than the best of any 3-ring cages around. Especially if you are growing vigorous indeterminants. They need minimum 5 ft support.
I'd say 18-24" would be good if you plan to keep them growing vertical. a big bush variety and they will be too close. Keep a bit of space inbetween plants for proper airflow to the plant to keep them healthy and disease free. Last year my tomatoes were planted way too close and the blight spread very quickly. Good Luck!
If you want to see how my tomatoes are spaced this year in zone 8b: http://youtu.be/oda_FOI7Llw
probably closer to the original cultivar than the typical garden plant - last year a neighbor gave me a seedling that produced similarly small "current" tomatoes - like berries really very tasty but hard to harvest - just have to eat them off the vine. I started seed from that plant this year will see what result I get. Based on the giver I assume it was heirloom and will produce true.
I have about 12 varieties grown from seed and the black prince has done quite well for me. They seem to tolerate cool nights which is important for my situation. Right now they are about 18 inches tall in my unheated greenhouse-the low tonight is forecast at 20 deg. Ouch.
I have noticed that the aphids seem to prefer the other types of tomatoes vs the more hairy black princes.
Well from what I see they are still green. I would keep them watered. It looks like you have either drip hoses, or soak hoses so the plants stay dry, and the soil slightly moist. Check them in the mornings if you can. In this area it is common to see plants look like that in the late afternoon hours. They perk up in night, and look fine in the morning. I have to use a flash light to check mine as I work the early bird shift from 5 am to 2 pm. When I get home on hot days most of my plants look a little droopy from the heat.
Yeah not someone I'd want to deal with.
Best I can find out is that once upon a time they were an Italian based subsidiary of Syngenta. But their primary products were petroleum-based products and only had seeds as a sideline.
Dave
[quote]Just got an interesting reply from the seed seller.
"...the purple plums came originally from Windhorse farm in New Germany, just outside Bridgewater (Nova Scotia). My understanding was that they were heritage varieties that the Wentzell clan had been toying with for about 150 yrs, so there may be no real refernce for them...I can tell you what I know, they are about 2" in size deep purple/red flesh, great for sauces or slicing, rich flavour." [/quote]
I know this is an old thread, but I am hoping that the OP or someone else might be able to help me find seeds for this variety. I came across the thread while I was searching for Nova Scotia heirlooms today. I am actually descended from the Wentzell family and so would so love to be able to grow these tomatoes!
Consistently as in through out it's life span? None. As the plant ages and the circulatory system gets smaller and more diffuse the fruit size declines.
Consistently as in almost guaranteed to get a few really big fruit from the variety each year? Well Delicious once held the record but I don't knwo if that is still true. Big Zac is another often mentioned, Giant Belgium another.
linked several discussions about the question from over on the Giant Vegetables forum below. They have many more suggestions in them.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Giant tomatoes discussions
>> I believe they came form the nursery already infected since I have not had any evidence of having it in my soil previously.
The University of Arizona says it's widespread in the soil, tomatoes or no tomatoes. Let's hope they're wrong.
Your pic shocked so many people, not from the wilt, but from the soil surface. You can tell there's a whole slew of die hard mulchers here! It really does help mitigate some of the harsh conditions in warm zones.
This post was edited by cold_weather_is_evil on Mon, May 19, 14 at 23:29
Hey Deeby,
It's probably too late now and BT would be your best immediate option. Although for next year as preventative maintenance:
Plant Petunias, Thyme and Borage around the garden liberally.. They are natural repellents to the hornworm... Dill is also an option but you have to be careful; Young dill will enhance health and growth, while mature dill actually stunts growth.. If you were to go with it you'd have to be sure to chop them before maturation.. With that being said, it'd probably be best to stick with the former recommendations..
-Mike
Oh Edie,
You mean that my friend's chickens were unusual in not eating the hornworms? I assumed that it was because they had dined on tomato foliage which is poisonous. My goldfish didn't like hornworms either when I threw them in the pond one year! Free food is free food. Why are they so picky? Sigh!
Linda
1 gallon pots should be fine. I would fertilize with something like Tomato-tone.
smithmal
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato-tone
It is forcasted to be in the 80's here for the next 10 days, we had a little cool weather this past weekend in the 60's. Im thinking about putting the pine straw in my garden area this weekend. Would that be enough time to warm the ground? It was 70-80s last week as well until the cool weekend.
Update: I checked soil temp and it was 78-80 at 2-3 inches
This post was edited by rbreedi1 on Wed, May 21, 14 at 19:32
@ rbreedi1,.. Yet another benefit of GOOD mulch, to keep the soil cooler in hot climates.