16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Link to Mexico Midget below and I'm sure it was on that list of currant varieties I linked to above.
I see SSE as one of the seed sources, but a few years ago folks who got seed for MM from SSE didn't get what they were supposed to so Craig LeHoullier,his name is in the link below sent the correct seeds.
Above Darrel mentioned some LA, etc varieties from TGRC and I just wanted to mention that TGRC is an abbreviation for theTomato Genetics Resource Center and they are not a source of seeds to the general public, just those who, as tomato breeders submit an application stating how they are going to use what they request in their breeding efforts and documenting their previous experience.
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Mexico Midget

jadie-- how funny! Yes let's def keep each other posted on progress. And funny, it was sun sugar I picked up, I forgot ; )
How interesting that the currant tomatoes are completely different species! I obv know nothing about tomatoes-- I only tried growing them in the first place because a little produce stand not far from me sold little market packs of currant tomatoes and I got tired of spending $5 on them each week (or more). I love them so much! They weren't labeled beyond just "currant tomatoes" so I have no idea what they are really. I know I love roasting them w some olive oil and salt and a little garlic and making that my "sauce". Mmmmm. Sometimes adding other veggies but the tiny little tomatoes are always my fave thing in the mix. Just pop so nicely in your mouth and not all seedy and slimy inside if I eat them raw in a salad. With larger tomatoes, I usually spend a good amount of time cutting that slimy stuff away. I don't have time for that. Plus the tiny ones are so darn cute!!!
I've read up a little now on these Tess's ones and I'd love to try them but don't want to bother w seeds again yet. Hopefully they'll be available in plant form sometime; they certainly sound popular enough!


The very top growth - thin, wispy, tightly curled leaves - looks somewhat like possible exposure to herbicides - specifically something with 2,4 D in it. Possible drift from spraying as it can drift quite a ways. Is that possible? What type of mulch did you use? Bagged? Same on all plants or just this one?
Otherwise that particular plant is very anemic looking and appears over-watered too - thus the yellowing. With all the leaves in your beds they will need extra nitrogen feeding as much of it will be tied up in decomposing all those leaves.
As for the tall, spindly leggy look - that is usually only caused by one thing outside - insufficient sun/light exposure. In this case the radiating heat from that stone wall could be contributing as well.
Dave


The lady at the nursery said I could go ahead and plant it
Don't you just love nursery people that throw out advise with little concern for if it is accurate or not. Not to mention selling plants that already 1.5 feet tall.
Yeah what you are seeing is lots of environmental damage and the results of root damage from a plant that was too old and big to tolerate transplanting and was planted out way too early without protection or pre-warming of the soil. Variety has nothing to do with the problems.
As mentioned, strip off all the affected foliage, feed it well and cross your fingers. It may have already been exposed to bacteria or fungus issues given its weakened condition so if it was mine I'd plan to use a regular fungicide spray program on it too to increase its odds of thriving.
And do please avoid overwatering it. It will need time and somewhat drier soil for the roots to recover.
Dave

So the planting in WOW pays off. My plants doubled up in size for these 2 weeks, robust, dark green leaves, thick stems, setting up flower and looking great. Most people have not planted theirs, although this is first year I am seeing increase in simple cold frames and row covers at our community gardens so there are few people that planted some. Couple of people planted uncovered tomatoes about a week ago, bought in store as large size pots- those look trashy, lots of environmental damage.
I have planted all my tomatoes and created plastic wall wind protection around the bed, this area calls Windy city for a reason. So far so good. We will drop for 3 nights into low 40 but soil in beds holding very nice temps so am not worried. Did plant some peppers and eggplants so we will see, those ones usually like to stay about 50...

Good luck , Linda.
Low 40s, being 42F+ is fine, as long as the soil (where the roots are stay warm (50F ++, at 4"+ depth).
Other things about night lows:
If you look at HOURLY temperatures, you will see that the low last an hour or so. Lets say the low is forecast @ 44F ( 5:am). This will be a typical hourly temperatures pattern:
3: am >>46F
4: am >> 45 F
5: am >> 44 F
6:am >> 45 F
7 am >> 47 F
.............
The other thing is windchill effect when Relative Humidity is low. That can cool off the plant and remove moisture from it faster than if the winds were calm. So by having a wind barrier , or WOW, or cage wrapped with something can provide a good cushion.
FN:
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starting as of yesterday, we are going to have a nice 10 day weather, mostly sunny, temps in 65 to 80F range(for highs). I look forward to seeing my matoes to get a real boost for the first time since I planted most of them on Apr 4-5.


So far. As the trees mature (most are small varieties), they will be rather packed in and the grass will probably recede. This year I have a few apricots, a few plums, a few asian pears, persimmons, cherries, strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. It looks like I also should get some hardy kiwis, but it is too early to be sure.

Yes, sunburn or windburn on the left plant and the white dots/holes on the foliage of the right plant occured either after Am dew or when you watered, and the sun was out and the water on the foliage allowed for the sun to burn those leaves.
Nothing serious, let them recover without manually pruning any damaged leaves so they fall off naturally.
Carolyn

Due to some things going on I have not been able to take the pics, and give more info.
For information the plant is listed as indet. due to the fact that it will keep producing as long as temps are not too awful hot. (Over 95 days and nights of over 80)
I like them. No they are not my total faves, and they are not the greatest thing ever. They are however good, and they produce when the others have quit. My fist ripe fruits of the season came from them.
First pic is of the one that the hail storm pruned down to the stems.


Next is the one I brought home last night. The local BBS (Lowe's) had a one day sale on them so I brought one home with me.
In my honest opinion they are worth it even at the $15.95 or so full retail price as the plant, container, and potting mix would run near to that, and also many of them already have fruit set on them. My only complaint is that the planter tips over too easy in the wind. I use bricks around the bottom to stabilize them better.
Note the pepper plant next to it. It appears to be a mystery plant. My guess is either hbanero, or bell. The pods will tell me in a few days.


A would say 6 - 8hours also.
Tomatoes need limited amount of light (in lumin )
The amount of lumins can come either from INTENSE direct sunshine or indirect daylight.
So any direct sun beyond plants needs for photosynthesis is not going to make any positive contribution and the plant juts would try to cope with that. Tomatoes in particular are NOT full sun (all day sun) plants. I have personally grown tomatoes with 5 to 7 hours direct sun with no problem. People down south, (TX , FL, S.CA ) use shade cloth to reduce the intensity and thereby lumins.

Seysonn: in another thread about flowers forming on seedlings, you gave this advice:
I would also remove any and all the buds that appear before plant out and maybe for two week after that . According to some plant scientists, this will direct more energy to root developments.
Have you changed your mind overnight?

Carolyn and Linda, my seeds came from Tomatofest. I was surprised because in general my germination rate was much better than last year. I order from Tania and Gary for the most part. The IS seedlings are looking more robust.
As to the rest of the above discussions, I'm pinching off any flowers I find.

@ Edweather,
In the sam FAQ it says( quote below)
"Slow Growth
When seedlings refuse to grow it is usually because the temperature is too low or the nutrient level is insufficient. "
That is what "nanelle" and I have mentioned.
One has to realize that medium is just that "MEDIUM" a mediator. So as long is it has proper moisture retention/drainage and supplied with needed nutrients , it make littl difference as what it is made of. SURELY, some media are better b'c they offer a better and balanced moisture retention. Believe or not , I have germinated all kinds of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants in garden soil in the past. Not the best, I admit but it can be done.

Ill be cozying up next to fire and grumbling. Winter is still lurching around here, with several inches of snow in the forecast for Sunday, after a fine week of high 70's-low 80's. I'm beginning to wonder if gardening in Colorado is worth my time and effort anymore.

I went up to see my mom yesterday, did some yard work for her, went to lunch, but got to harvest a box full of avocados from the tree I planted in 1975. That thing has supplied us pretty much since, and everyone loves the fruit (Fuerte).


Thanks for the replies. Linda, I remember seeing these hornworms in 4 o'clocks when we used to grow them. Guess I was thinking the hornworms would come for the fragrance of the 4 o'clocks and stay for the tomatoes!
Deeby, I'm very grateful to still have my Mom around. I try to keep flowers around for her to enjoy and I keep a small vegetable garden for her. Mom and Dad always enjoyed gardening. Dad is gone and Mom is too old to do the work but I think it's important for her to see these things still going on in her yard.
Buck


Being organic gardener simply means you wonôt use certain things in your garden. In my mind it is not equal to better. I much rather think of myself as biological gardener, one who uses understanding of the soil, its needs and distribution of nutriens.
Container gardening is way different that gardening in ground.
I second Neptune for foliar feeds. Love the stuff! I use mixture of fish, seaweed and molasses added for sugars. Everyone has their favorites as for NPK feeds, mine is Grow Big from Fox farms 6-4-4 till the plants start fruiting and then I switch to Amaze from Ag Lab 5-16-4 after fruit set.
I believe "organic" when it comes to fertilizers is MOSTLY an environmental concern and issue. The plants won't make distinction as what the source of NPK is nor veggie/fruit produced by either one will b any different as far as health and safety is concerned.
That is just my personal understanding.