16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
We're having a crazy heatwave here, and I made some very poor judgement of leaving both pots outside. Although they were watered properly, both plants dried out totally. Lesson learned.
Luckily I kept some more plants indoor, so once the heatwave is over I'll do proper hardening - how many days would you recommend outside before I can transplant again?
I suspect everyone hardens their plants a little differently, and if you search this forum you'll undoubtedly find many methods. But I start by setting the plant in the shade for an hour, the next day 2 hours, the next day 4... maybe starting to give it a little sun, gradually building up to them being outside all day (and all night - here, nighttime temp is a concern.) Sometimes I kinda have to do it based on my work schedule and what the weather is like. I'd say take at least a week to 10 days to harden.
It looked like your seedling was healthy when it went out, so I think you'll be successful this time around!
I prune, because I grow in containers and need to make sure the plant doesn't outgrow the pot. But really, the best answer is do what works for you. Sounds like you have been growing without pruning just fine for some time. You could always try an experiment, prune a few and compare the results to unpruned.
It also makes sense to me to prune at the end of the season when new growth could not possibly produce fruit before season's end. Then the plant can focus its energy on ripening the fruit it has.
Agree that grubs in the soil are a normal part of any garden. We all have them. It is the rear end of the grub, the raster, that determines what type it is and detailed close up is required. You can make that determination at the link below. They are no threat to your tomato plants.
It is an incredibly robust plant so it has to stay. I guess it will be a surprise for me and that my be fun. Sometimes it is fun to try something you never would have gotten by yourself. (But there are reports of BK having crossed and becoming potato leaf.)
BUMP.
Talking about avoiding disease .. rather than trying to fight it.
I like this old saying:
AN OUNCE OF PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN A POUND OF CURE.
Having said that I have put in place a fungiciding schedule. Weather permitting I will spray every 10 to 15 days.
First spray : May 1st, 2015
Second spray May 15th, 2015.
The reason for delay was rainy weather..
I have a log and write down the dates that I spray. It is nailed on the wall of my tool room.
Do you have a prevention schedule ? How do you do it ? what do you Spray with?
I have 3 kinds of fungicide : (1) Daconil (2) Neem Oil (3) Copper fungicide. .
So far I have used Daconile. The next time I will use Copper Fungicide and then maybe Neem Oil.
Sey
Breanne Farris - post your request over on the Seed Exchange forum.
Those are called "megablooms",which are sort of fused flowers.
It happens mostly early in the season, when the weather is on the cool side.
Also some varieties tend to produce more of those.
The fruits tend to have awkward shape called "cat faced". The fruit quality for eating will be quite low.
Some people believe it is a waste to let them grow and others like it as fun thing to watch them grow.
Sey
has anyone had any success with interplanting basil? Word on the street is that they can share soil space and nutrients rather nicely, and the basil will help keep certain bugs away?
I'm guessing you are talking about the "companion planting" fad? Not much of it pans put in actual practice which is why it never really caught on. They even go so far as to claim it makes the tomatoes sweeter which is well proven to be impossible. Pest patrol benefits - none yet they are very attractive to flea and Japanese beetles and aphids which most of us don't want gathering next to our tomato plants.
That's not to say you shouldn't plant basil near tomato plants if you wish. Many do simply because they go so well together on the plate when served and as long as the basil gets enough sun they grow fine although they don't need nearly as much water or nutrients as tomatoes do. Just don't expect them to have any magic side benefits. :)
Dave
Basil is a warm weather loving plant. It needs warmth and sun. Plus, if you know how to harvest it, it can last all season. So, No, I would not interplant basil wit any thing. I would rather plant it in pots, ALONE. PLUS they can get real bushy and big.
I am not a expert on disease,but I had a similar problem a few weeks back. Here is the thread on my problem. http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3035569/kind-of-scary-looking-disease?n=11
Once I removed the damaged leaves it has not returned. Hope you get an answer.
Agree that it's most likely flea beetles. Click here for info on controlling them.
Rodney
Excellent link, Rodney. Thanks! From what I'm reading there and elsewhere - looks like I have a couple options for homecooked sprays, which I may try out this weekend. Even so, these plants are topping out at 18" right now so I'll keep fingers crossed that they're big enough to tough it out regardless.
Everything is suckered to one stem. When planting at that density suckering is not an option if one wants to prevent foliar diseases. One extension horticulturist who stopped by thought density was still too high but it has worked well for many years and it utilizes every square foot of space inside that have cost me 4 cords of wood to heat (+ 40 # propane) this spring.
Suckering has other benefits. Picking ripe tomatoes is much easier and less time consuming and overall fruit quality is better.
Thanks Barrie, that is what I thought.
I grow in raised beds, densely too. I stake and prune to about 2 (maybe 3) stems. Also all the leave branches lower than the first truss eventually are pruned.
Of course, the above is for indets. With the dets I just prune the very lowest LB and the laterals, for better air circulation.
Sey
