16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
When do you start your prevention sprays program, like copper or Daconil etc.
From the first day of exposure, first day of plant out. That's the standard recommendation as once exposed to the air borne fungus it ceases to be "preventative" and becomes only a "slow down control". Frequency of application other than after rain depends on the product used.
Dave
Perhaps seedlings of giant pumpkins? I'm under the impression that the average gardener wouldn't know where to obtain seeds of those varieties. You could put together a list of tips for growing them, and hand those out with each purchase.
Try Craig's list under Free or Farm & Garden sections. I've given away my extras that way before. I would also try local but larger greenhouses & nurseries for a variety of different tomato plants. Maybe give them a call first and explain your situation and see if they'll donate or sell for a discounted price. You may want to check with local gardening clubs or even gardening friends to see if they have extras of unusual tomato plants.
I'm baffled! I took my 6 grafted heirloom tomatoes that were growing healthy scions (tops), and half of the tops just fell right off when I finally moved them.
Now, it seems to me that if the tops were growing healthfully, the graft had to be functioning. But they arent. After 3 weeks, if they aren't then, they never will.
I gave the grafted scion darkness for a week, I kept them humidified. No signs of fungal problems.
6 of the 15 grafts seemed to thrive. I let them be exposed to light very gradually for over a week after a week of darkness. Most of the grafts just fell apart when I tried to move them gently...
If the scions were growing new leaves, they HAD to be connected to the rootstock, So what did I do wrong?
Screen thumb, you are an old timer. And what a nice plant, already with tomatoes. You are set to harvest by early June, I would estimate. I have gardened in zone 7B in GA(Atl.) but I could never get such an early accomplishment.
Congrats and have a wonderful season!
So when are your seedlings too small to plant outside? I have lots of seedlings that seem to be stalling out inside... granted, this is the first year I've tried growing from seed and I don't have all the proper tools like fluorescent lighting, etc. I think they aren't getting quite enough light inside so I would like to move them out as soon as possible. I've been setting them out in the late afternoon / early evening for sun exposure. They all have just started their second set of leaves and they are pretty small.
I do have other plants already in the ground, but I just wonder if these seedlings might just do better outside or if they are still too fragile. I'm hoping maybe another week of hardening off... sorry I don't have pics handy. Thanks!
Daisyjoy,
I don't think seedlings are ever too small to be planted outside! After all, they often manage to sprout all by themselves in people's veggie gardens (if left to their own devices).
As long as your air and soil temperatures are warm enough, and you are there to water and protect them, I think they will do better outside.
Linda
>> How often do I water them now that its turning summer (its hot where
>> I am (florida))?
Just to illustrate that there are no hard and fast rules for tomatoes, I live in climate sorta similar to Florida, except it's dry (we get as much rain in a year as you get in a wet two days) and the temperature swings are larger because of that dryness. I water toms on a slow auto drip every single day. Here, it works but in many other parts of the world it would be a bad idea.
And take the "days until harvest" numbers with a BIG grain of salt. The numbers have some hype built in. Again, your climate and techniques dictate reality. Wing it!
I'll stick with the racoon part of the question since the answers to all your other questions are found in many, many of the existing discussions here - lots of homework reading to do including all the FAQs here that cover all the basics. For example just type 'cages or stakes' in the search engine at the bottom of the page or 'watering'.
But racoons I deal with weekly. Electrical fencing is ideal of course. If that is out regular fencing is better than nothing especially if it is lose, floppy, and angled out. The repellents work but have to be applied regularly and after every rain. I find coyote urine to be the most effective. Life trapping and relocating is very effective - Have A Heart traps. And if you are out in the country, a .22 works too.
Dave
On Cherry Tomatoes:
I have several SUNGOLDS that I have started from seed. Today I was at Fred Myers Garden center They have Sun Sugar. The price @ $1.99. was right for a nice 6" sturdy plant, BUT:
I realy do not have more garden space. Is Sun Sugar any better than Sungold ? If YES, I might squeeze one some place.
They had so many different nice varieties That I would've liked to grow, if I had space : LIKE. Anna Russina, Caspian Pink, Black from Tula, Indigo Rose, Red Zebra, Ananas Noir, Juliet, Jet Star, German Johnson, Amish paste, Kellog BeefSteak ... and few more.They all were from another grower, NOT Bonnie
So what do you think about Sun Sugar ?
Well, I can't be certain until seeing the fruit. :)
But the store calls it "Golden Sweet Cherry" and the picture that the store put on top of the shelf is of yellow cherry tomatoes (spherical, not elongated) as pictured in the Johnny's Seeds webpage.
The store has a picture and a brief description of each of the tomato varieties that they sell. I recall that the description for this variety mentions something about the tomato being developed at some research center called the "Week Center" or something like that.
I think, one can only tell if you have over fertilized with "N". And its effect is very dark green foliage. I have no idea how to figure out if you have over fertilized with P and K.. But looking at the picture, I don't think that plant is over fertilized.
I could be wrong.
This post was edited by seysonn on Wed, May 7, 14 at 2:20
I have come to think that growing in peat pots requires special conditions, like a greenhouse with sprinklers system, high humidity and GOOD air circulation system. It is no an accident that growers like BONNIE grow an sell everything in peat pots.
About RE potting:
When it is done, it will produce a period of disturbance (if not shock) . Then It will take upward of a week for the root system to grow in the new medium and expand. So if I was going to plant out within 10 days in the final destination, I would not re pot
I ended up up potting this weekend because after talking to many experienced gardeners in the area, I will likely wait another 3 weeks to transplant out. They had nice large root balls in the peat pots so hopefully they will do ok. I potted them deeper as well. Thanks for all the advice!
I went through something similar several years back. It was what convinced me once and for all to plant in raised rows.
Survival rate for me was approx. 80% of the 250 plants i had out at the time so the odds are in your favor. But you will lose some plants so be prepared to replace them.
Time allowed to see if they survive is as much as you can allow for, 8-10 days minimum if possible will give you the answer.
But one thing I fond that does help - depending on equipment you have available and how quickly the surrounding soil dries enough to work with - is to hill up around the plant and bury any and all exposed stem. New roots will develop all along that buried stem quickly and offset much if not all the damaged roots in the deep wet soil.
It is relatively easy to do with a furrow attachment or spaced harrow if you have one. If you have to do it by hand then focus on the varieties you most need to save.
Hope this helps and I wish you good luck.
Dave
When we moved into our new house 5 years ago I planted some tomatoes in an area that that poor drainage. Unfortunately in my case the area never dried out and every time it rained it just stayed wet. Fortunately there were only a few plants in the really wet area, but they didn't survive and were severely stunted. The time to do something is now......if possible.
Hello,
I have a question, this is my first year growing vegetables in a home garden. I am doing a raised cinder block bed and using a square foot garden method with 15 squares and strawberries in the cinder block holes. All of my plants seem to be doing great except one. I have five different tomato plants (roma juliet, big boy, black krim, roma, and red beefsteak). All my tomato plants have been growing, flowering, and growing tomatoes except the beefsteak. The beefsteak is about 4 feet tall, has tons of flowers, i am not sure if they are being pollinated but i go in and pollinate myself with a paint brush. After the petals drop i see a tiny tomato but they have been like that for weeks they wont grow from the pea size. Everything is watered evenly and it gets plenty of sun and once a week i apply plant food. I live in houston so the weather is warm right now not too cold at night definitely not in the 50s. Should i cut off all the pea size tomatoes. I have looked for diseases or bugs but cant find anything on this particular issue. I am thinking the pollination or temperature is an issue but will the tiny tomatoes begin to grow once its happy or should i just cut them off and shock the plant a bit. The pea size tomatoes look a lot like the ones pictured above. I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
Topsoil as potting medium is not a good option. The reason being that it compacts under its own weight , when it holds too much moisture. But it can be amended by adding some perlite and pine pine. I have potting with garden soil in the past. It can be done but not very successfully.