16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Sorry, didn't realize you were that far north. I usually think of zone 7 or even 6 as moderate with fairly long growing season (May-Sept.) The only gardeners I've encountered on the WS forum who can't do tomatoes or peppers by WS have been from zones 4 or 5.

It's not that we are far north, but in Pacific Northwest May and even some years June can be very cold.

yay :)

OK, I planted my seeds exactly 14 days ago. They started popping on day 4 and by day 5 nearly every seed had popped. Now after two full weeks, they have at least one full set of true leaves. Since this is my first time growing tomatoes from seed, I am starting to think that maybe they are growing a bit too tall (getting leggy). I culled 2-3 seedlings out of each container a couple days ago leaving me with three per container. Eventually, I will go down to just one per container.
I am used to growing peppers and these are definitely more leggy than my peppers usually get. So, is this normal or do I need to get them more light. I have been raising them in front of a West-NW facing window. They get direct sun about 5-6 hours a day with indirect light about 12. I don't have any room under my Pepper grow lights but I can maybe shine a desk light on them at night and give them some extra light that way. Do I need to give them the extra light or are they looking pretty normal for tomato seedlings? I would say they are about 3" tall right now.
Bruce

O, Carolyn, I did not ask you you to address my views or to agree with it. And it is pefectly fine with me if you or anybody else disagrees with me. What I said and wrote was not in direct response to your posts in specifics.
So feel free to go about your priorities.

Your comments above are just so far off-base and reflect such a total lack of understanding about how the process really works that it is difficult to just let it stand and be read by others.

But since all the valid information is readily available to all who choose to look for it, hopefully readers will opt for reliable sources of such information rather than buying into some off-the-wall conspiracy theory.

There are several small and medium sized seed producers located in the Northwest. Why not plan a day trip to visit one of them and learn how things are really done?

Dave.

In this thread, I am learning much about seed production and the degree to which people are passionate and willing to fight about tomatoes. I wish we could stick to the seed production and skip the fighting about tomatoes part. I swear if you insult my habaneros, I won't be upset. :)

One thing to bear in mind about seed packet prices is that there are only a handful of seed suppliers at the wholesale level. Most of the vendors who supply those of us who are hobby growers are getting their seed from someone else and then putting in their own packaging to be sold to us. Or such is my understanding anyway.

So I wonder how much of the difference in price and package content is just about companies taking profits. If I order seeds from Burpee (which I try not to do) I seem to end up paying more and getting less than if I order from Baker Creek, even if it is the exact same plant. Now admittedly this is heirloom seeds here because Baker Creek doesn't carry hybrids and if I order from Burpee, I am probably still ordering an heirloom.

But I wonder if the same principle applies and the difference between varieties and vendors in pricing or seeds per packet might be mainly about who is trying to take the most profit per sale.

Angie

They look OK other than seemingly suffering from :

---- Insufficient light
---- Insufficient nutrients
---- Maybe getting too much water

OR ANY COMBINATON OF THE ABOVE.

Thanks Seysonn.... definitely not too much water... I learned my lesson from last year...

but I am probably guilty of the other two... I have added more lights but probably will need more

As for nutrients I always thought if I grew them in 30-50% compost I would be ok but I have just bought some fish emulsion and liquid seaweed and plan on making a dilute solution to feed them today. Hopefully its not to late.. I have one more month to go.

None of your dwarf or determinate plants can be grown well in any container smaller than 5 gallons. Larger containers - 7.10,12, gallons etc. containers - will produce healthier and more productive plants assuming proper potting mixes and all other growing conditions are provided.

That has discussed here and on the container gardening forum hundreds of times and is true for any variety regardless of the source or the name of the variety.

Dave

Thanks Dave - I know indet need much larger pots, had found 1 thread where you mentioned dwarf plants might be OK in 5 gal, that is the smallest I would go for final size on any of these, didn't know which if any of these particular varieties might be OK in 5 gal, and which might need *larger* before I go buy some.

For example, the first 2 - Benewah and Bonner - not described as stalky or dwarf, in particular Benewah with the "prostrate" habit - not good for 5 gal containers?

Latah I might try in a larger container or separate area, or tag just so I can compare with the ones I started from seed exchange.

But the rest *are* described as "dwarf" so can I assume that a 5 gal pot or bucket (I know deeper is better, and larger is better) will be adequate? I do have to buy some since I don't think I have any (unless they're outside instead of the basement). I don't want to grow a lot, just want to try them so I know if I can start more next year and sell the extras as container plants, and how large the *minimum* size I recommend should be (since I would likely sell them in 4" to 1 gal size, no larger)? People in the suburbs around here are looking for patio plants, I've had people ask if they could keep a tomato plant in 1 gal pot before!

If you are that worried about them then bring them in to your garage. It should be warmer than outside. I left a few out when it hit around 40 just to see if they would make it. They did. Though they were sewn from seed, and started indoors. I left three out just to see. They were fine.

The larger ones I bought, and planted I covered with 5 gal. buckets when temps dropped to the freezing to mid 30's. The next day when temps were at 55 I pulled the buckets off. Note if it gets windy like it does here then put something heavy on the buckets. (20 mph is light breeze most times.)

Thanks all. The garage it is. Not that much warmer, but better I guess.

And yet it gets quite windy here.

Thanks again.

Top of plant

Very top leaves of plants... Spots that precede the shriveling...

Should you add calcum ?
It depend on what your potting medium is. If it came in a bag, read the label to see if it already has calcium. If it does not, then you will need to add calcium. The most common source of calcium for containers is dolomite lime.

For more info you may want to visit "Container Gardening" forum here in GW..

As Cara said, garden soil is not recommended for containers, for the reason being that it can get compacted, causing drainage problem.If your plant is still small you can re pot it into soil less medium.

This post was edited by seysonn on Mon, Mar 31, 14 at 22:55

I will second the advice to avoid garden soil in a container. I learned the hard way myself. Take the plant out and gently wash the roots. Then either plant it in the ground, or fill the container with potting mix.
For fertilizing dilute the fertilizer to half strength. Apply in the time directed. If it says every 7 to 10 days then go with every 7 or so.

If you are in an area that gets days of over 100 degrees then planting them on the south side of the tomatoes may be of some help. I know they say tomatoes should grow in full sun. In areas that get over 100 if something is on the south end to give a bit of shade in the evening it can help tomatoes. The two plants that gave me the most tomatoes last year were shaded in the evening. The plant was still getting 10 hours of direct sunlight.

I think, as long as their(sunflowers' and tomatoes' ) roots do not get tangled up, it should be fine. Probably 1.5 apart is good enough.

^ I grew those a couple of years ago, wasn't all that impressed by them to be honest. They were bigger than Sungold and not nearly as tasty.

sweet baby girl loads up well larger than sungold, grows well in cooler climates, can be rained on when red ripe without splitting ,dosn't do as well in a cold frame too much foliage,5 ft. outside and ease of harvest. the best red cherry I have found in 30 years. I am trying cherry falls,sakura,and suncherry this year.