16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

Soil in a container quickly compacts and doesn't drain well. It can stop root development and lead to root rot and death of the plant. That's why using it is never recommended.
And all sorts of things are labeled "top soil" so the quality is questionable to begin with. If it was labeled Miracle Grow Garden Soil then it says right on the bag that it is not for use in containers. For best results I would suggest you replant them in a proper container mix while it is still early in the season.
You can find much more detail on the problems of using soil/dirt in a container as well as the issues with using compost in one over on the Container Gardening forum here.
Dave

Yeah, unless you graft them on to new root stock they will be regular (as in never-grafted) Sungold. They aren't genetically altered just because they were once grafted onto something else. But then plain ole Sungold grows just fine for most of us who aren't plagued with soil-borne diseases.
Dave

If you read the link below you'll see that some say that fruit yield is increased, sometimes marginally, on grafted plants.
IF that's true with you grafted Sungold F1 plants then fine, but cuttings from the vegetative part should give you the normal number of fruits, which for me has always been high anyway.
CAROLYN
Here is a link that might be useful: rootstock and fruit yield

In general, is there a difference in days-to-maturity for cherry or grape tomatoes versus the DTM's for larger toms?
Also is there a difference in DTM's for determinates vs. indeterminates?
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I cut and paste so I don't forget what I'm supposed to be posting about.
First, DTM's are sheer guesstimates and depend on where a variety is grown, where geographically, what the soil is like, amendments used, if so, how much and when, and what the weather is like in anyone season, etc.
In my experience there's no real dofference in DTM's, in general, for small fruited varieties as opposed to larger fruited varieties. And I've grown about 4,000 varieties to date, so am basing that on my own experience.
And again, no, IMO there is no difference in time to ripeness between Indet and det.
I find it much easier to go by something like this:
55 to 65 days, early varieties
65 to 80 days,mid season varieties
Over 80 days,late season varieties
Or a similar version based on a range of days to categorize relative ripeness, And I see more and more websites doing the same and dumping the DTM's.
Carolyn

Agree. There are early, mid, and late season varieties for cherry-types, determinate, and indeterminate types. DTM, for what it is worth, is determined by the genetics of the specific variety not by its type or fruit size.
Dave

Just a follow-up to my original post. I selected the "Micro-Tom" variety. I did use the coffee filter method. Batch 1 (3 seeds) I left in the filter for 5 days. Batch 2 (3 seeds) for 6 days. After all 6 seeds germinated I planted them in two separate 3" pots and put them under the lights. All are doing well. Yes, planting the seeds is tedious. The only problem I ran into was figuring out the right way to plant them.(LOL) Once I mastered that everything is going ok. I like this method because I don't have to worry about using a heating pad to raise the soil temp. I also don't have to worry about the plastic dome covering the seeds in the tray/pots. How long to keep it on etc. Ok I realize that if you are planting a large quantity of seeds this method is not for you. But, I'm not. After I master this I will try the other methods. This is a fun and learning experience. Isn't that what gardening is all about? Well at least it is for me and by the way the "youtube" vids are very helpful. Amen

I have germinated seeds many ways:
1) in paper towel in zip bag
2) in glass jar
3) in a dish
4) in starting mix
Number (4) although is a direct sowing, but it is a bit tricky: How to Keep them Warm and control the Temps , moisture : The seeds are about 2 -2 1/2" away from the mat. The soil does not transfer heat efficiently UNLESS it it really HOT. Then your seeds might cook and/or the soil get dry fast. I don't like covering the soil to avoid damping off and fungus growth and gnat problem. Paper towel is good if you have to germinate just a few but if you want to germinate dozens, then direct sowing in starter mix is the best option and you have to learn how to tune HEATING and keeping moisture CONSISTENT.


Carolyn - I told you you shouldn't be playing tennis in the living room unless you moved the couch and rolled up the rugs! :)
$$$$$$
Not to worry Dave since right now I'm not even allowed in my living room, a step down from the rest of my home, so the tournament right now in Indian Wells, CA is being played without me.
But I can follow the scores on the net, which I know will make you feel much better about my obsession with tennis. LOL
Carolyn, waiting patiently for another foot of snow starting today . Good thing that I have plenty of dark bittersweet chocolate on hand.

Can You Start Seeds In a Hoop House ?
The answer, I think, is "YES" but it depends on the soil temperature rather than air temperature. Tomato seeds (and many other) need warm soil to germinate. Probably 60F is about the minimum. 75 -80 is ideal. I doubt that your soil temperature will get that hot under the hoop( considering the calendar and your zone). UNLESS you leave it on the garden bed for several sunny days. Anyway, it will take twice as long, even longer, in cooler soil for the seeds to germinate
This post was edited by seysonn on Mon, Mar 10, 14 at 3:47

We had a warm spell right after my seeds germinated, and I put them outside during the day right away. I watched them carefully to make sure they didn't dry out.
I don't think it's a good idea to go from indoors to outdoors that fast once they get true leaves. I plan to start planting this week, and I'm still moving some of the plants in at night and out all day in full sun.


The shipping kills you - that's why Dave said look for local distributor. I'm still waiting for my nursery to get back to me with ProMix/Fafard prices - hoping it will be less than the $38/bale at True Value I missed out on. If they get bulk discount from ProMix distributor I called, and they don't mark up too much, then give me 20% off, I might as well let them do the driving.
Fafard isn't too far from me in Agawam, MA (still over an hour) - but if they will sell 1 bale at wholesale it might be worth the drive (in car, not pickup). Only thing is, if I go up there in April/May to get a bale for potting up, I might end up having to spend money on Six Flag tickets for the family ;-)

I use one of those small four shelf greenhouses inside my larger greenhouse that would be costly to heat. Got one at Big Lots for $30. At the bottom of the small greenhouse I put a small crock pot filled dry with lava rock and leave it on all night. It makes a nice cozy environment and it's only 45 watts.

I missed part of your description of your GREENHOUSE in my previous response.
You have already experimented and have measured the temps. That is the way to do it. That gives you a pretty good idea as how hot it can get inside that mini greenhouse. I can guess that as long as the temperature outside is under 50F, there in NO chance for the temperature inside that MGH to go anywhere near 85F. It also depends on HOW MANY HOURS of direct sun it gets, how windy it is. If you are not using it to full capacity, I would suggest NOT to use the top shelf, where there is a possibility of getting much warmer.

Thai is ok for plants to wilt a little bit. Even inground established plants do witl in a bright warm sunny day. With the seedlings, you do it a couple of hours a day at first and keep extending it. That is what HARDENING OFF IS. In a way, it is like humans getting a tan. You don't lay down on the sands for hours the first day ; Do it a bit at a time and use some sun screen lotion. Of, course the plants are tougher than we are.

Put them out in the evening when it's still warm but not sunny if they're wilting. Yes, a little bit of wilting will occur but unlike humans (who may burn but then peel and recover from sunburn), a serious case of sunscald can kill a pepper or tomato seedling. Build up slowly, first getting used to heat and then sun.
See above for pot sizes.


I have an issue with winter turning straight to summer. Once the temps get too hot, the flowers fail to set. My planting date is 2 weeks ahead of yours.
What I do is plant tomatoes with wall o waters in mid-March to mid-April. I start them in Feb. I plant deeply. I plant about 55 plants and usually some start producing before the heat sets in. Usually, a few produce through the heat and then take off in the fall.

To Dave:
Thanks for all advice. Them 80 gal tubs were not too deep. They are for sure wider then they are tall. I guess your observation about tall pot makes sense since tomato roots not really growing deep but tend to spread wide.
50 years! I wish I could pick your brains some about your nursery expertise in things other then tomato too.
To austinnhanasmom:
Hm... I think your situation is a little different. For me mid-April ground is still frozen. Actually I start my tomato just early to mid April, other way they get too tall and root bound. Our last frost date is early June.

I plant lots of different tomatoes. I would not want more than a couple of Black and Brown Boar plants. It is a small, black striped tomato. If you like to try a variety of shapes and sizes, it is a good one. Not all my tomatoes are successful. Some have tomatoes early and quit others come on later. This little tomato I had from some of the first tomatoes until the end of the season. It tastes good enough. I don't do taste tests or ratings. If something tastes like a store tomato, I don't eat it. Celebrity is one I don't grow any more - tough skin and taste not great. I like to slice this one and put it on a cracker with some green onion, salt and pepper. I would not cut up a big beautiful Wes for me for a snack, so I pick a Pale Perfect Purple or Black and Brown Boar. Sometimes I have tomatoes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Wes was my best heart last year. The other hearts quit setting fruit after it got hot.
We went on vacation to the Hill Country once. I went to the wild flower place and had German food at a restaurant near there - didn't know what to order. You may get hotter there and have better soil. I have rocks with thin soil. Any tomato I plant in my garden has to have an improved spot. I am an old lady and I enjoy Susan Wittig Albert mysteries - no sex or violence except somebody dies in every book. Her themes are all herbs like rue etc.

Weight of the branches. Why haven't they been tied up to the stake in the box? Branches will often bend and even break just from the weight of the top growth alone without sufficient supports. And many cherry plants get huge and require multiple supports.
Dave


I already posted an answer on your other post of this question. Hope you don't mind if I refer you to it rather than typing it all again.
Dave