16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Yes, you will need to make sure you have more posts, and that the panels are very securely wired, because the post attachment wires will be taking a lot of stress from the weight of the tomatoes as well as the heavy panels themselves. I'm a lazy gardener, so it's easier for me to just rest them on the ground, though I would love to have an additional couple of feet in height. Good luck! Let us know how it goes. I abandoned cages years ago and will never go back. I also used to trellis by stringing to horizontal overhead 2x4's wired to 7ft posts, and still have a couple beds that way. More work, because you have to keep adding strings and weaving throughout the season, but since I check my tomatoes daily it's not a big deal unless I am gone for a week.
I can imagine that with a VERTICAL trellis you have to do a LOT of tying. If I were to use it, I would make half-circle wires (about 12" in diameter) that hold the branches while the two ends are tied onto the panel. This can be done by using a cloths hanger size wires. Thicker is better.
see sketch
This post was edited by seysonn on Thu, Jan 30, 14 at 15:33
ebay is a very easy way for me to look for the seeds I want. Nobody that I am aware of in my area sells seeds as early as I want to plant. The three people I have bought from all have nurseries, and I can go to that site and see what is what. Where is the line? If a nursery starts as family owned and operated, but does very well, is it wrong that they are now 'commercial'?
Not sure what to think about added time, the only problem I had the seller sent me replacement seeds well after the feedback time. Guess I am lucky.
Now I am saving my own seeds, but you have to start somewhere.
Wil add in it is quite possible to breed an early, mid or late season tomato from any variety by consistently choosing to save seed and replant seed only from the earliest, middle-est, or latest fruit for a few generations.
Seed saving instructions to maintain an existing variety generally say to take some seed from each of the early, mid & late fruits, otherwise you may be accidentally breeding for different characteristics than your original plant.
Wil add in it is quite possible to breed an early, mid or late season tomato from any variety by consistently choosing to save seed and replant seed only from the earliest, middle-est, or latest fruit for a few generations.
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Several folks I know have tried that and it doesn't work b'c the seeds are the same as to DTM in the earliest of fruits, mids, and lates. One good example is the variety Joyce's strain of Brandywine when Chuck Wyatt saved seeds only from the early fruits and said he had an early strain of Brandywine, But no one who grew it got the same results. Again, b'c the seeds in the fruits were the same, or pretty much so, some exceptions, but not related to time of ripening.
(Seed saving instructions to maintain an existing variety generally say to take some seed from each of the early, mid & late fruits, otherwise you may be accidentally breeding for different characteristics than your original plant.)
With this I agree. There is genetic heterogeneity within a single variety, so it's important to preserve those traits. And here I'm talking about internode distances, subtle changes in leaf form, etc.
Carolyn
Carolyn
I grew Grandma Mary's last year, and Speckled Romans the year before - both peeled very easily, and I thought the taste was good, though I mix with slicers (not the purple/blacks, though, it ends up making a muddy-looking sauce). Haven't tried making sauce with *just* the paste/plum types though.
BTW, there is a big difference between making SAUCE and PASTE.
How do you make tomato PASTE ? I have a great way to do do it. But I usually make just SAUCE, like spaghetti sauce consistency, NOT too watery. Once I add all the Italian type of herbs and spices, and adjust acidity by adding some sugar to it, it makes little difference to me how the raw tomato tasted.
But because we don't get a big crop/harvest, I am not into planting JUST FOR SAUCE?PASTE varieties. I can always squeeze the extra juice for drinking.
YMMV.
Think about UMBRELLA , but for the plants feet instead of head.
plastic is cheap. If you have raised beds you can cope with too much rain by simply covering the beds such that the rain water runs off of it. Short hoops, when plants are short, is another option.
Rain in cool spring days, in addition to making the soil soggy, also cools down the soil and washes down the nutrient. In my experience, although tomatoes in general are tough and can stand the cold but will not grow and actually might become stressed. In this respect, soil temperature is more crucial than the air temperature.
JMO
I forget what soil temp was and when I planted my beans last year, I don't think soil temp was the issue last year, after the scorching heat we had in late May and the first few days of June (that delayed planting). The soil might have cooled off some with all the rain in June, but really I think in my case it was just that the roots could not take up any nutrients, either b/c the N washed out even though P,K, Mg, etc. were still there, or b/c they were just wet enough that they didn't spread (though if you dug a hole in the bed on the rare day it wasn't raining, it wouldn't fill up with water, so I know the drainage was good). And then had lots of blossom drop with the heat wave in July. It was just a bad tomato year here - and worse for peppers.
Plastic might have helped if I had had it, and I'm going to be using low or high tunnel this year to get an earlier start (typically plant out May 23-27 but delayed last year b/c of heat and drought). But I'm still hoping for "perfect weather" this year - haven't seen any in the past 3 years (2 wet years with a drought in between does NOT count LOL)!
An orange MINK would be very interesting b'c all I have here are the normal brown/gold minks who like to play in and around a fast moving brook that goes by my house. LOL
Orange Minsk is a wonderful large beefsteak variety, seeds send to me and several others by Andrey who lives in Minsk, Belarus, There's also an Orange Minsk Heart now.
Carolyn
Oh that's too funny!
Orange Mink would be a great name for a tomato that gives you that warm fuzzy feeling (LOL).
We have brown mink that sometimes invade our pond and eat our goldfish. They are not at all popular with my husband, who is very protective of his fish.
Linda
Tandrew, if you look at the top of the Messages here, above and to the right, you'll see a link to Exchanges, and that Forum was set up for all wants and haves, so that they didn't appear here on this Forum.
So please consider posting in the Exchange for your CP seeds and what you are willing to trade them for.
Carolyn
Nathalie,
Ask around... in our small town (7500) we can find a good variety of tomato plants at several places including HD, at 2 local ag/feed stores, a small floral/nursery, and even some local cafes. Additionally, don't be afraid to ask neighbors, co-workers, etc. I would think that there would be many places in the Portland area to find these common tomato plants. Good luck, happy gardening, and enjoy!
Tom
In and around Portland, various growers sell tomato plants, with many heirloom kinds.
Just about everyone sells Sungold because, even if all other tomatoes fail, Sungold will thrive.
The box stores are a source as long as you select fresh plants rather than shopworn kinds that have dried out one or more times.
We also have numerous small garden centers which feature heirloom tomatoes in spring. Call around as previously suggested.
Another resource for good quality plants are local farmer's markets
Don't get too anxious about planting, though. Many folks wait until June or later to set out transplants so that the tomatoes receive the consistent warmth they require.
You might be interested in "Growing Your Own" from Oregon State University. Lots of basic info, with a planting chart (lists suitable dates) on page 7. In that pub, Portland is in Region 2.
http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/handle/1957/21092
Here is a link that might be useful: grow your own
You have Whopper - which is a hybrid so why save seeds - or you want Whopper?
Have you looked over on the Tomato Seed Exchange forum.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Seed Exchanges
This statement is not logical (to me) Mr Spock: "Because the rate of transpiration was greater when the whole plant was upside-down and conversely slower when parts of the plants were oriented correctly, it is not unreasonable to suggest that gravity does increase the rate of transpiration but only before the plant exhibits gravitropism."
Reason for this assumes that plant wants to grow in upright posture for some reason and resulting bent stems do not "transpire" as efficiently as straight one. Could this (gravitropism) be a result of its proclivity out seek out better sources of light (or new civilizations) and not necessarily to keep leaves from drowning? I do not know. I know that this occurs rather quickly when light orientation is changed on seedlings. And it has nothing to do with the moisture content of their roots' soils. Also note that the all of the non-root growth of the "upside down" plants was probably still below its soil surface in a gravitational sense. Which implies that gravity should have continued to have an effect on transpiration if it, in fact, does. Also, the compromise of transpiration due to the of twisted stems deformation notion is, to me, rather flimsy.
Jeff
This post was edited by reginald_25 on Wed, Jan 22, 14 at 10:25
Moisten your seed starting medium at the beginning prior to planting and then try watering from the bottom. It has worked for me for the past 50 years. The comments about light and darkness above are good ones to take heed of. I do not put them under lights until they germinate. Some plants need light to germinate but I do not think tomatoes are in this company. To repeat, a cooler temp in the 60s would be helpful for sturdy seedling growth. Gave up on peat pots during the Reagan Administration. They just don't work well for me. (No political statement intended). I have been growing about 20 varieties of hybrids and OPs for many years. Usually grow about 200 seedlings of which about 180 are given away to friends and neighbors. Great fun.Good Luck to you aand keep us posted.
I tried peat cells. Didn't like it. Why? Because, being so small, porous and the starter mix is also mostly peat, what do you get ? They are soggy when watered, for a while then get dry fast. For this reason I transplant from paper towel to 2 1/2" round or square plastic pots. They stay more consistent and manageable.