16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
The variety named Hundreds & Thousands was developed by Sutton's Seed (UK) about 3 years ago and other than someone who was selling the seeds on ebay the only other current supplier I know of outside UK is in Canada. They are just too new for wide seed distribution yet.
Instead for baskets look at - Baxter's Early Bush, Tumbling Tom (Red or Yellow), Whippersnapper, Floragold Basket, Red Robin, Garden Pearl to name a few. Success and production will depend on the size of the basket - bigger the better.
Hope this helps.
Dave
PS: using normal conditions won't make Yellow Pear any better. :)
That's too bad about those Hundreds & Thousands, they look so nice :) Thank you for recommendations on similar types! I want to have a nice color and fruit size varieties on those so I'll take a closer look how the ones you listed will do. Hopefully I'll find some currant size. What size baskets do you recommend? I want the vines to be able to grow few feet down.
Rafal
PS: thanks for the tip ! I definitely won't grow those anymore. I couldn't believe how bad they were. Tiny Tim's were a lot better tasting, on the sweet side. I'm trying to grow the black Krim and Cherokee Purple now :) but we'll see how they turn out under fluorescents.
After several years of growing many varieties of organic heirloom tomatoes, I am concluding that heirlooms are simply sparse fruit producers in general
I would strongly disagree with that conclusion and I'd suggest that you first detail and re-evaluate the growing methods you are using since that, and not the variety, most determines production. This given the fact that many growers, especially in CA, are quite successful growing heirlooms.
I'm also curious about your use of the term "organic heirlooms"? The two terms are not synonymous. Do you mean you are gardening organically or only buying organically grown transplants?
You might also want to read through the many previous discussions here on grafting. Like everything else in gardening it has its pros and cons.
Meanwhile check out this how-to graft tomato plants link.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Grafting tomatoes discussions
You Prices seem to be very reasonable. May be too low.
You should promote volume pricing. Like $3 per plant under 5. $2.50 ea. for 5 and more.
I think HEIRLOOMS, is a good niche marketing. You need to set yourself apart from big growers and the big box stores. People will be willing to pay a little more for hard to find varieties.
You need good appealing pictures and nice description. Provide good planting , care and growing guides.
Good luck !
The Jelly Bean I know is an F1 hybrid, not an heirloom.
Link below.
Is there an OP one somewhere?
I know the F1 Jelly Bean is available at Pinetree and Trade Winds and some other places as the link indicates.
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Jelly Bean
Of the hybrid grape tomatoes I've grown the Cherubs, Santa Sweets and Smarty F1. My Fave would be Santa Sweet Sweets.
I know of no one who has dehybridized any of them although saved F2 seeds from Santa Sweets F1 are known to come true about 99% of the time and many folks are on the F6 and F7 and all is well.
I know of just one grape tomato that is OP and that can be found at Tomato Growers Supply, just called Grape Tomato.
I haven't grown it and don't intend to.
Fact is, I don't see anything special about a grape shape, so have other red cherries I prefer to grow and there's a thread here on this first page now, with lots of links to past discussions about cherry tomatoes.
Hope that helps,
Carolyn
Fedco seeds carries Rutgers and gives some info you might be interested in. I'm working on a Fedco order and just read the info on Rutgers. Hth.
4055TO Rutgers Tomato OG (75 days) Open-pollinated. Ind. Two varieties are called Rutgers. We sell the original strain of this famous New Jersey tomato, developed by CampbellâÂÂs Soup Co. in 1928 as a cross between Marglobe and JTD. When Rutgers University âÂÂrefinedâ the variety in 1943, they took out some of the vininess but also some of the flavor. Our taste tests confirm that the original indeterminate strain is better. Long considered an outstanding slicing, cooking and canning tomato, the medium-sized 4��"6 oz mostly uniform and unblemished deep oblate fruits with rich red interior and pleasing texture have that great old-time flavor, delicious and juicy. Resistant to F1, V1, ASC and GLS. OT-certified.
Item Quantity
A=0.2g for $1.30
B=0.4g for $2.20
C=1g for $3.60
D=2g for $5.60
E=10g for $20.00
My info was that Rutgers was reintroduced in 1933, but maybe my brain and my fingers weren't working together, so it could have been 1943.
If you want the original indeterminate Rutgers, then Fedco looks like your best bet.
Almost all other Rutgers listed at most seed sites now are determinate.
Carolyn
I grew them several times and they are very sweet but I have no experience with Sungold so cant compare. Like most cherries they will crack easily but are prolific and the plant is hardy. I have grown e black varieties and Italian Ice but would say I like OP better than the other three. Chocolate Cherry second then II and Black Cherry last. jmo
Name is Datterino (note 'o') and from what I have read about it on other forums the seed is patented still and currently available to only a few commercial growers who grow for commercial canners - predominately European apparently. It is a thick skinned tomato designed for the shipping market.
Linked the developers website - United Genetics - below.
As for a better sauce, nothing says it can only be made from a paste type tomato be they San Marzano or whatever. There have been many discussions here, on the Harvest forum, and on various cooking forums about how using a variety of tomato types, including slicers and beefsteaks, results in a much superior tasting sauce than that made from any single paste variety tomato.
If using only paste types is your preference for some reason then consider Opalka.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: United genetics
If it is developed for commercial growing and canning, then probably it is not worth for home gardeners who want good taste first. In other words, it won't be any better that your average grocery store types. Though, it might be appealing to those who do a lot of canning.
not on thread topic necessarily.but..i was going to say..
i have been using fish bone meal last couple yrs.. and my tomatoes respond well to it..
so do the racoons too..:( so..i fence around the tomatoes at start of growing season.keep them from digging around my plants..
fish bone meal has good levels of phosphate,and calcium
plus helpful for good soil bacterial levels..
seem the more diverse soil is in humus levels,good bacteria,worms..helps fend off problems..
The word is "Hugelkultur".
That's what my mom used to practice, on a small scale.
When preparing a vegetable bed, she would strip the area of all the top vegetation - weeds, ferns, shrubs, saplings. She then strips the layer of top soil and put this aside. Next she would dig a trench in the ground - orientated north-south lengthwise. How deep this trench is depends on how difficult the soil is to work on. In this trench, she would throw in all the woody twigs, small trunks, and rotten debris. Next, she would cover this with the weeds/ferns/saplings that she collected from clearing the area. She compacts this down with a "hoe". She uses the top soil she had previously set aside to complete the final layer.
The final result is a long mound on which she would grow her spring onions, pak choi, chilli, etc. The mound usually ends up about 20 feet long, about 3-4 feet wide, and approximately 2 feet high. It often ends up not looking all that pretty - it would be crooked, and the height and width would vary. But, boy didn't it produce good crops!! (She would grow sun/heat loving crops n the west side of the mound, and the less sun tolerant types on the east side.). She uses fern leaves to mulch the soil. A heavy tropical down pour would easily wash away the top layer of good soil if left unmulched.
I did not know, until recently, that this technique of vegetable growing that my mom used to practise more than 40 years ago actually has a more fancy name "Hugelkultur", done on a much larger scale.
Now-a-days, in addition to maintaining a compose bin, I collect the larger chunks of organic waste by setting them aside in a pile through the growing season. In the winter, I trench the beds, throw in all the organic materials, together with any kitchen wastes that may be sitting around, and build up my "Hugelkultur" bed - albeit on a small scale.
Opalka was the best producer out of all my tomatoes in 2013; I just wasn't blown away by the flavor. Wasn't bad, just wasn't outstanding.
This year I'm gonna try San Marzano Redorta--it's supposed to be a lot bigger than the regular one. I don't know how it'll do in our SC heat, though.
Here is a link that might be useful: San Marzano Redorta
Thank you! I have a funny feeling that come July, I will be whimpering at my laptop screen while all of you post pictures and talk about your tomatoes. Mine will be shriveled up from the heat, humidity and daily torrential downpours. I'll be thinking about germinating seeds for my fall plants and missing the taste of fresh garden tomatoes.
I have learned so much about growing tomatoes from reading here and getting advice when I'm "stuck."
So far I'm winning the war against the little beasts that decimated my tomatoes the first year. I attached bird netting to 6' canes and have the plants completely surrounded. I pick them when they first start to blush and let them finish ripening in the kitchen window. I also spray BT to keep up with the caterpillars since I can't keep butterflies out of the yard. Some of my plants are now more than 9' tall. I may have to start cutting the tops off!
Now while you dream of warmer days, make plans to start seeds and draw your spring garden plans, here's a picture to give you something to look forward to soon. I grew San Marzano, Amish Paste and Black Plum this fall. I've started seeds to transfer outside in the next few weeks and will also try to grow cream and green sausage, orange banana and Jersey Giants. I'm hoping they'll do well enough to can them. I'm dying to try making marinara and salsa with a colorful assortment of tomatoes. Here are the San Marzanos outside now, getting ready to ripen. I can't wait to make a pot of sauce with them and some sweet basil from over in the raised bed.
All of you stay warm and safe!
Grafted tomatoes don't necessarily provide any more protection against early blight than do non-grafted plants since the spores are airborne. At best, depending on the rootstock you used, you might increase the resistance a minimal amount and so delay the onset by a few days exposure. Defiant and Legend are the two varieties listed as the most EB tolerant, not resistant, "tolerant".
The use of Daconil and similar fungicides from the day of plant-out has proven to be far more effective as a preventative measure.
That said if you want to try doing it then check out the other discussion on grafting just down the page. In it I included a good how-to-do-it link as well as links to the many other discussions here on grafted tomatoes.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Grafting tomatoes discussions
Thanks for the link Dave! I get all warped out of shape when I begin to think of all those beautiful transplants I've planted, only to watch them, one by one, fall prey to EB...... Obviously, grafting isn't going to solve my problem.......
Daconil is my fungicide of choice & I spray it early & often, but I wonder if I'm actually spraying it starting with day one. Me thinks not.......
I will also try Defiant & Legend..... Last year I planted my usual (15 each) Celebrity, Mountain Fresh, & Jet Star. Mountain Fresh was the most EB resistant, but still succumbed......
Still might try grafting a few Defiant or Legend for fun.....