16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

If I were you I'd leave the flowers. You need something for your efforts. Maybe you will get a tomato. Keep trying and learning. Your local nursery is selling tomato plants so that means others in you area are growing them. Maybe someone at your nursery could show you how tomatoes are grown there or you could meet someone at the nursery and discuss their methods. You will find information here but someone in your area would know what works there. You seem to love plants; good luck.

Thanks Helenh for your advice.
I too feel that since this is my first attempt at growing anything, I will let the flowers grow to see what happens.
As for others that buy the tomato in my area, I spoke to the nursery guys and they told me that perhaps I was the only one growing in containers. All the other have large plots for in ground planting. However, I still have found one guy who will come over to my place and see how things are going at my end. However, I have noticed one thing that the in ground planters over here are not too very aware about the change in dynamics when growing in containers. But lets see.
Yes it I seems that I love plant. But as one member of GW said, my love of plants results in too much attention which can kill them :-)
Thanks again for your input.
Saood

Found this in search of something else, stupice should be pronounced correctly as STUPITZE or STUPIZZEH , c being as Z in Pizza...u being pronounced OO...E as EH.
Walked over the mountain road called Stupice many times, think I ought to trade for the tomato seeds. Irregardless the name as long as it's enjoyed.
Bea

graanib ... your pronunciation sounds more natural to me. I don't know Czech but "C" in stupi"C"e is not pronounce as " c in nieCe".
Also "E" at the end should sound like "eh". So if "C" in Czech sounds like "Z" in German then we will have"
"stoo.peetz.eh". Nothing sounding like "STUPID" : lol


I grew tomatillos this year for the first time. I received the seed in a trade. The plants were very prolific (I had 2), but the fruit were marble size and totally useless. What varietie(s) do I look for to get regular size tomatillos like I see in the store?
John A

I figured I would use the top of the planter to grown something because why waste the space!
Wanting to plant something in the top of the planter implies an upside down tomato planter to me. If it was a hanging basket then it would be the tomato that was planted in the top of the planter.
Deeby - from what I have read from the So. CA growers planting there is much earlier than for most of us - like late Jan to early Feb. rather than in the spring. That's why I suggested the CA forum for best info on planting times.
Dave


Thanks Farmerdill ... yes, It was marked"Heirloom". As you pointed out it is some kind of so-called BLACK. I figure it must be productive to grow it commercially. My Black Krim performed very poorly this past season. I hope that this one will be better.

helenh - Nothing special - It comes from a Farmers Co-op
The poisons they sale now are very weak. BONIDE - Vegetable, Fruit & Flower. I only spry when stink bugs become a problem. The poison was weak but it did fair.
I used a different spry for my peach tree and it only made the worms fatter. Total loss. BONIDE Fruit Tree Spray and I followed directions.

Corgikarma - I once meet a man at Wal Mart that worked for the people who solded the store tomatoes that looked perfect. He told me the same as what you have written.
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You said = Grocery store tomatoes are picked green, treated to ripen and shipped across country. That's why they look perfect but have no flavor.

Well I had a small canning party Sey, the mixed Green Ramapo and 4th of Julys with shreds of carrots and napa cabbage with some bell peppers for the non spicey people that I plan on bringing to thanksgiving. Then the others are a mixture of Poblomo (what ever it is called lol), Beaverdam, Some more green tomatoes for fillers, carrots and cabbage again, Beaver Dam, Hungarian Hot wax, Large red cherry (but did not color yet),Bell peppers and some secret Cayenne peppers chopped that were just about turning color to surpize people.
I didn't want to mess with the scotch bonnets. Next pickling will resume in 2 weeks if the tomaotes dont turn. Also I checked out my plants it was hovering around 32F last night and they seem to be ok, next close frost is in about 10 days. Also right before the evening I very heavinly watered the fabric bags and soaked the surounding area.


This picture shows my ollas with a tomato plant, garlic and lettuce. I have four 1 gallon ollas. This picture was in Feb 2012, the tomato plant was a volunteer which was an experiment to let it grow in winter. I usually put 3 tomato plants in the area in spring. The ollas are about a foot from the plants (not perfectly evenly spaced) with each plant next to 2 ollas. It doesn't freeze here and we don't have a mosquito problem. I haven't broken any of them yet. We even had raccoons dig one out of the ground and it still was not broken.
I still deep water the ground with a hose periodically in addition to filling the ollas.



One fall I took some very small (like 4") healthy looking tip and sucker cuttings from a plant that was going down to disease. The ideas was to see if I could overwinter them in the house. They did fine in a sunny south window, even set some small fruit in the spring, and eventually were planted back out into the garden. I think the dryer environment in the house was not conducive to whatever fungal diseases the mother plant carried in our cold fall weather, because the cuttings remained healthy. It's worth a try -- you can always toss them out if they start having problems.

Gray mold or botrytis is another disease that survives on plant debris over winter and can also be seedborne
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Thanks
In that case, a question comes up: IS THE BACTERIA SOIL BORNE OR AIR BORNE ?
If it is soil borne how did it get into my beds. It was the first year that I built and used them with purchased soil/compost. BUT then I bought all the seedlings.

I know tha basics of that kind of grafting.
You have the two seedlings side by side.
Make small cuts (partial removal of stems. Then wrap them together until they kind of weld together.
Then cut off the top of one(potato) and the stem of the other one(Tomato). Now you have top of tomato and root of potato.
But it is easier to be said than done, I think.
Potato berry can produce seeds(like tomato seeds) If you plant them you will get potato plant.

If it weren't so late, Linnies Oxheart would be a new go to variety for me. In a really bad year, when most others gave few, and smaller than usual fruits, this one is still blushing a 1lb+ tomato almost daily, perfectly formed and beautiful. I can't wait to try it in a good year.

Tomatoes accumulate sucrose which is produced in the leaves via a complex series of steps starting with water and carbon dioxide from the air. Vacuolar invertase breaks the sucrose down into glucose and fructose for further metabolism. Variations in the gene that produces vacuolar invertase and a few others associated with it result in sucrose accumulation in the fruit. LA4104 from TGRC has a variant of this gene that causes more sucrose to accumulate in the fruit.
If you want to have sweet flavor, you have to go back to plant health to ensure the leaves have everything needed to produce sugar in the first place. Once it is produced, it must be readily transported to the fruit. Once in the fruit, it has to be stored instead of being metabilized for fruit growth. That means a LOT of genes are involved in the processes and therefore there is a LOT of room for genetic selection.
With that said, get some Crnkovic Yugoslavian seed and see what you think.

Yes, lots of steps and enzymes involved, but none of that can happen unless photosynthesis produces the energy compounds ATP and GTP which are necessary to faciliate those reactions and end products.
So IMO conditions that lead to the most efficient photosythesis are the most important.
I still say that taste is in the mouth of the one tasting fruits and taste is perceptual and personal and depends on many other variables.
I can taste variety A and think it's sweet but another person can taste it and say it's a spitter.
BRIX levels measure soluble sugars, all of them,not just sucrose.
Crnkovic Yugoslavian? Yes, a variety I introduced by first listing it in the SSE YEarbook. From a fellow faculty member Yasha Crnkovic. And I've grown it a lot. Is it the sweetest variety I've ever tasted? I don't think so but it's a great variety IMO as well.
Carolyn

I grew all three this year. I was most impressed with Supersonic. It was larger than Ramapo and Jet Star. There was very little cracking. It was the most productive of the three. And the flavor was very good. I did not find the flavor of Ramapo or Jet Star to be any better than Supersonic. Supersonic will be my main tomato next year. Will also have an Early Girl and a Besser. Besser produced hundreds of golf-ball size fruits, there was no cracking, and the flavor was very good. It is a beautiful tomato on a veggie platter. It does need a lot of room - a very vigorous plant.

I never grew Jetstar or Supersonic but I grew the Ramapo and 4th of July this year. But I will try the Supersonic and Jetstar + the Morton next year.
As far as the Ramapo F1, I estimate that I had about 65+ per each plant so far out of 5 plants along with 1 4th of July plant that produced around the same. There are still 45+ tomatoes in total approching maturity that have begun about a month ago to sprout.
Last year I grew the Early Goliath but was brand new and 4 plants only produced about 40 maters but I think that was my bad since I did not fertilize ect and being new and did not water properly.
The photo below shows the head on shot of theRamapos in its current stage (the fourth of July is 2nd on the right but it is hard to see) and the last photo is one of the Ramapos with a Kellog Yellow Beefsteake in the backround that was pretty good too but was planted late in the season (around late June).
I guess what I am trying to say is that the Ramapo does not give up in producing for me yet even with 45F nights and mid 60s, however we have a frost approaching next week so it will come to an end,
- Mr Beno

This post was edited by thebutcher on Sun, Oct 20, 13 at 17:08


Thanks Dave.
I NEVER put the old plants in the compost because of the possibility of disease. I also NEVER put tomatoes in the compost to avoid volunteers.
John A