16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes

I have seen a little of that before on grocery store purchased tomatoes - but I dont know what causes it. I would think they would be fine for sauce.

This is calllus tissue which represents undifferentiated and immature cells . I am not sure of the conditions that favor this in a garden environment. In the laboratory, one produce callus tissue by manipulating nutrients and phytochemicals in growth media for the purpose of micropropagation and breeding experiments.

Someone asked which variety the farmers had at the farmers market. I asked today and the answer was Carolina Golden. They taste delicious, but I will not be growing them because they are a determinate variety and I have a string preference for indeterminates. The Carolina Golden is also a hybrid, and I usually prefer heirlooms even though I do grow hybrids from time to time. :)

Off the top of my head here's some faves in the Orange/Gold/Yellow group.

Aunt Gertie's Gold

Orange Minsk and also the heart version

Earl of Edgecombe

Jaune Flammee

Kellogg's Breakfast and its PL version KBX

Lillian's Yellow Heirloom,clear epidermis so ripens up yellow.

Yellow Brandywine (PLatfoot strain)

All are large fruited indeterminates.

Hope that helps and can pick my fave three, I think,if asked, that have done wonderfully for me in my zone 5 having been grown several times each.

Carolyn

Thirsty dirt

I agree with the fact that a foliar spray of epsom salts can and will help with the absorption of Calcium. Will a foliar spray of epsom salts lower your PH not likely. You would have to apply pounds of epsom salts to the soil to get enough sulfur to lower the PH. So if you mix 1 tablespoon of epsom salts with a gallon of water and spray this on your plant how is this going to lower your PH. Remember when you foliar spray a plant you mist it on the tops and bottoms of the leaves to the point of drip. I think a product that contains both a chelated calcium and chelated magnesium would be a better choice than epsom salts.
Tim

It seems that whether its a calcium or potassium deficiency, it always seems to be made worse by inconsistent water and temperatures...

Since this first tomato with BER I've been very careful of my watering practices and have only found 2 more with BER - and ironically it was after we were gone for two days and the plants weren't watered.

After returning the a regular watering schedule we haven't seem any more with BER.... and they are all starting to ripen nicely. :)

When the season is done I'll have to test the soil and see if its low, or high, in anything.

Thanks for the help.

This is a neat video

http://www.albionplantnutrition.com/plant-nutrition/efficacy/#video

Unckle Dunkle and Growneat Corporation !!!

I have a Black Krim and am getting ripe fruits from it, right now.

The size, shape and color of those in your top picture matches better than 90% to what I got, BLACK KRIM. It is likely that it has bee mislabeling or accidental tag switch.

Thank you all so much! My black krim plant was picked over by a gardening buddy and I didn't get to see how they looked!! I must have planted one out of order :)

I really appreciate all of your feedback! Thank you!

I consider Rutgers a good all-purpose tomato -- fine for fresh eating as well as for processing. Fruits will vary in size from small to fairly large. It is good tasting and quite blemish free.

Jim

If I only had a choice of the three, I would pick Rutgers. I don't grow romas, but I have heard they are very susceptible to blossom end rot, and I've never heard anything good about Tigerella. I grew Rutgers for the first time this year and it is a decent tasting tomato - mine weren't very large. Maybe next year I'll give it a better spot and its real potential can show.

Carolyn, thank you much!!!! Yes, I would LOVE to hear varieties that you think are better alternatives! I am mostly going off the Tatiana list because I like her judgement on varieties that I grew as well and Tatiana lists many as excellent ones. I am sure it is all about trial and error and personal taste but suggestions do help.

Not sure why system double posts.
Wanted to add also that what I have been doing is growing varieties and giving them to people at plant swap as what I want to grow so often they will be trial for me as well. I think I might concentrate on growing heirlooms to give away the ones that are trusted and I know they did well for me so I can share my experience as well. And then I will trial for myself other ones that I think might be fun to grow. For example I really like Marianne peace but for 2 years in a row it was the last variety to ripen in my garden. Terrific taste but fruits ripens mid Sep. I might grow it myself and use WOW and early planting but probably not a good plant to offer to others here in my area.

This post was edited by lindalana on Sat, Sep 14, 13 at 21:10

so theoretically if I plant one seedling into deeper and larger container right away it will do better than seedling transplanted several times from one size container to another?

Sweet 100s are a hybrid. This means that the seeds of a Sweet 100 plant will recombine from their hybrid parents and "re-assort" in many different and unpredictable ways. Perhaps many many Sweet 100 seeds stared out, but perhaps the only ones that survived were those that had re-assorted to be most adapted to your particular (difficult) growing conditions. So they produced good, healthy plants. This SOMETIMES happens with Volunteer tomatoes. I know people who insist that all volunteers are crap, and they rip them out at the first sign of growth Others insist that the volunteers are sometimes the best and strongest plants in their garden. Due to genetic chance, both things might happen. If you have a plant you like, be sure to save some of the seeds from it, and try to grow them next year. And hope that it is stable enough that it continues to do well, AND to taste good.

Fresh Tomato salsa, with some fresh green peppers(with mild heat), sprinkle with your choice chopped herbs(basil, cilantro, chives, parsley, mint), some lime/lemon juice, olive oil and of course some salt. Cucumbers, IF only garden fresh.

Wait a minute... isn't that how *everyone* makes tomato sandwiches?

hmm the leave are going brown but the nights are cold and it is normal but would it be better if I take all the brown leafs off
the spots are very small and then spread even today I see my cherry tomatoes starting to do the same thing should I pick them green so the spots don't spread

The more I Iooked at that green fruit I think there's a good chance what you're seeing is anthracnose.

If you click on the link at the very bottom, go to the 7th row, and second picture in from the left are two green fruits that have lesions just as you pictured.

To find out more about anthracnose here's a link to a Google search;

https://www.google.com/#q=tomato+anthracnose

The reason I was a bit confused at first is b'c usually one sees it on ripe fruits, but the fruits are infected when they are green as you'll find out when you read several of the links in the search link above.

Hope that helps,

Carolyn

Here is a link that might be useful: anthracnose

Yes, they are safe to use b;c the fungus that causes it is not a human pathogen, but I wouldn't use them since most of the time when anthracnose appears in the Fall the fruits have gotten watery and usually they taste on the sour side,

But you be the judge on that.

Carolyn

Thanks Carolyn - your help is much appreciated.

We tasted one of the tomatoes last night and it seemed a little watery but not sour. We're going to peel and start to cook them down tonight before it gets too bad.

Thanks again.

Barb