16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Well, I am expecting things to grow for a while and have plenty of greenies going. Difference with late tomatoes that they are just started going so I get whatever first crop they started. Thus I never rely on them as main staple in my garden. I have several Nature Riddle, fantastic, all over 1 lbs toms in full glory, Brandywine Sudduth, Nikolaevna, Cuor Di Bue, Marianne Peace, Missouri Pink Love Apple doing really well. OTOH my Pink Honey gave me first crop in July and has some new greens now so I know I will get more. Amazon Chocolate the same, producing second crop as weather cooled. So I build my garden a lot around midseason varieties.
Hungarian heart seems keep going no matter what weather and so is Paul Robeson.
Planting variety of tomatoes is a must for me, depending on the weather I will always have something going.
So I confess that I decided to give one last weak fertilization as I watered. It's going to be really hot over the next few days and I'll be watering plenty, but this is it, and its amazing to see from day to day. But black Krim is really slow to ripen. Nothing yet has even started to blush from it.
Looks very appetizing. How do they taste ?
About Skin: To me tomato skin is tough and indigestible , no matter how thin or thick they are, anyway. I can throw it in boiling water for just 10 seconds(or less) then take it out and pour cold running tap water on it and peel it. Let its sit to cool off more, then slice it. I always do this when I want to use them in cooking; That is the Italian way.
What I am saying is that, to me skin thickness is not the criteria to judge a tomato.
He said they tasted Great but he owns and operates a bakery so his opinion comes with that disclaimer - haha! I agree with you about the skin - there must be some thick skinned tomatoes out there but I have never planted or tasted any. We don't take off the skins for BLTs - salads - fresh eating etc. but they come off for any cooking/canning/salsa etc.
I know what Ted was trying to say when he disputed what I said about a thorough soaking. If a plant is not well-rooted it can fall apart perhaps a bit easier when wet. I have transplanted hundreds of plants, stone fruits, avocados, etc. The number one enemy is having the roots dry out. As stated above...the roots are key! It sure sounds to me that your small 6 inch pots are going to be root-bound. Not a huge problem. It will overcome.
No, they aren't commonly grown and you don't have to go to the UK to get seeds per your link. Did you?(smile)
Best to search for them using hypertress tomatoes, and I've given a link below to a Googl esearch and here's another one from Tania;
http://t.tatianastomatobase.com:88/wiki/Red_Centiflor#tab=General_Info
Note that there are several places in the US where you can get seeds for them and the UK place I think cites Alan Kapuler as well.
Hope that helps,
Carolyn
Here is a link that might be useful: Centiflors
Another opinion: Doubt it's a disease. Likely environmental. Some of the damage looks to be due to drying out.
Remove the seriously affected bottom leaves
Thin out excess foliage/branches to allow good air circulation. Water at the bottom of the plant while ensuring that the bottom leaves remain dry.
This post was edited by jean001a on Sat, Aug 17, 13 at 16:27
"But Those "GENIUS" people in Japan keep making, F1, F2, .. F infinity."
No, they are breeding for F1 only. They don't want F2 or later generations. You don't ever see commercial hybrid seeds labled F2 or later.
"I just wonder how a man with no schooling at all, like Radiator Charlies developed, hybridized and stablized a variety in a few short years ?"
M. C. Byles (Radator Charlie) spent 7 years growing out his selections of Mortgage Lifter until he felt it was a stable selection. Mortgage Lifter Story on NPR Living on Earth
When dehybridizing a tomato, one should plant as large a group of F2 and subsequent generations as possible and select from plants that most resemble the results you want, save seeds from several and repeat until you have a stable selection, generally at F7 or later.
Keith Muller's site has an excellent tutorial on tomato genetics.
Betsy
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Gene Basics
As I recall I trialed it for SSE back in the early 90's when Marie Danilenko first sent it to SSE along with about 20 other varieties that I trialed,
What I remembe rmost was that I had three plants out in the field and one of them was a mule, and never formed blossoms while the other two were productive.
I think it had a clear epidermis which means it did stay yellow, as opposed to something like Dr. Wyche which does turn gold at matruity and which I do like.
With a varity that does stay yellow at maturity Lillian's Yellow would still be my fave, and my fave one that turns golden at maturity is still Aunt Gertie's Gold. '
'So little time, so many varieties to grow and over 3K grown to date, and counting. LOL
I know I should be checking my past SSE Yearbooks if I can't remember something, they're on the floor to the left of where I sit at the computer, but the piles of them are not stable, so sometimes I just don't want to be bothered to go on a search mission.(smile)
Carolyn, who now thinks she remembers getting Limmony from Craig LeHoullier, her best tomato friend of 24 years now, who got it from David (see linki), but did grow it at the same time she was trialing the other varieties for SSE.
Here is a link that might be useful: Limmony
Carolyn137,
Ah yes, Tatiana! I read her site before ordering the seeds - that is what convinced me to try this gem. My results a bit different but then that is how tomatoes behave - IMO. My Limmony did stay yellow at maturity while my Dr. Wyche did go orange on me - just as you note.
Just took a peek at Tatiana's site for Lillian's Yellow and it looks like my type tomato -- potato leaf with solid flesh and few seeds. I now must source seeds for 2014.
Thanks for the information,
DL
There is no way to know what they are except for calling them a yellow paste variety - maybe cherry paste as you don't say how big they are and there is nothing to use for scale in the photo.
They are one of literally hundreds of varieties that look just like that.
Dave
Unfortunately, I think people who do dry farming actually do get a lot of blossom end rot. They just do it anyway. I recall reading that a farmer said he gets smaller tomatoes, lower yield, BER, and the plants really struggle, but the taste of the tomatoes is superior. So... not for the faint of heart I guess.
the soil seemed dry but I made the judgment that the plant's stems were firm and not mushy and from what I am reading that means they were probably under watered. I poured about a gallon for every patch of dry soil across that 2 by 5 foot patch totaling about four gallons of water. when I was done the soil had puddles of water and I checked the soil just a few minutes ago and it was still nice and wet. its been five hours since I watered it and it doesn't look super perky, but it also hasn't wilted any more and in fact seems to have perked up just a tiny bit.
here's to hoping I did it right!
First off, Those plants look about normal.
Best judge to water or not to water is your index finger. Go about an inch or two down. If feels almost dry, then water.
AND you did the right thing. One gallon per plant will be enough. One time slightly over or under watering is not going to hurt anything.
I think Dave pretty much nailed it, but you may never know the actual reason(s) because there's just too many possibilities, including your local climate, which may not favor that variety of tomato.
There is a decent chance that the next round of tomatoes will taste better.
Often the first few tomatoes you get off a plant are not as flavorful as the later ones, so you might wait to see if your later tomatoes taste better.
Just fyi, I did a google search on "factors that affect tomato sweetness" and there are some interesting discussions out there. Tried to post one but apparently GW doesn't like that web site and wouldn't let me.