16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
There is no way to know what they are except for calling them a yellow paste variety - maybe cherry paste as you don't say how big they are and there is nothing to use for scale in the photo.
They are one of literally hundreds of varieties that look just like that.
Dave
Unfortunately, I think people who do dry farming actually do get a lot of blossom end rot. They just do it anyway. I recall reading that a farmer said he gets smaller tomatoes, lower yield, BER, and the plants really struggle, but the taste of the tomatoes is superior. So... not for the faint of heart I guess.
the soil seemed dry but I made the judgment that the plant's stems were firm and not mushy and from what I am reading that means they were probably under watered. I poured about a gallon for every patch of dry soil across that 2 by 5 foot patch totaling about four gallons of water. when I was done the soil had puddles of water and I checked the soil just a few minutes ago and it was still nice and wet. its been five hours since I watered it and it doesn't look super perky, but it also hasn't wilted any more and in fact seems to have perked up just a tiny bit.
here's to hoping I did it right!
First off, Those plants look about normal.
Best judge to water or not to water is your index finger. Go about an inch or two down. If feels almost dry, then water.
AND you did the right thing. One gallon per plant will be enough. One time slightly over or under watering is not going to hurt anything.
Baxter's is a regular leaf not a rugose leaf plant. But even if this was a regular leaf plant there still wouldn't be anyway to put a name to it.
We get lots of requests here every year to ID tomato plants and the answer is always the same - it isn't possible to do. You can pull up all the 'id the tomato plant' posts here to confirm what I am saying,
People simply do not understand that there are thousands and thousands of tomato varieties out there and hundreds of each type, size, shape, and fruit color that look exactly like each other.
Even DNA testing of the plant could not confirm the variety name since so many have the same parental line contributors. So don't worry about it.
Dave
At the very first look at the picture, I thought it looks lik my SWEET_N_NEAT dwarfs. They are less than a foot tall, and span on the ground about one foot. A long shot of the plant can be helpful to better narrow down its variety.
here is a picture of mine
Suggest go to this section of the forum http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/tompests/
was set up for that type of ?
ml
I use fertile soil, drip irrigation, and a mulch to cover the ground to try and hold down the viruses. So far I am getting some problems on the lower leaves of some plants but am doing much better, here in northern CT, than I have before I started doing this. I use cardboard boxes for mulch - they are cheap (free from the dump) and easy to lay down.
We had our very first voles ever this year -and- that looks just like the damage they did for us. The only reason we know for sure it was voles is because we saw them running across our driveway one night when we came in late. They took up residence in our raised bed. We gave them an eviction notice with some PermaTill (tiny little sharp rocks). At season end we will mix a large amount of PermaTill into all of our raised beds.
Cheers,
DL
I think , your other (better ?) option is to pick the maters at color break and ripen them inside.
On the suspect front, I can name THE RATS. That is what I have first hand experience with them. Sure other criters are capable of committing the crime as well. (Grin)
"Aphids live on the leaves rather than under them. I have never seen them to infest tomatoes."
Most aphids' entire life cycle is lived out on the underside of leaves.
They most certainly do infest tomato plants.
Hard to tell from your out of focus pic, but I'm guessing aphids.
Adult whiteflies would have flown off as soon as you turned those leaves over.
There are many discussions here on GW dealing with aphid problems. Just do some searching and you'll find loads of info.
This post was edited by robeb on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 1:27
Thanks everyone.I have read about aphid's and haven't found any that are white and all are decribed as being bigger than what I got. They do fly when you get near them and they are mostly under the leaves. I guess I'll take some to a garden supply and see if they can help. I"m thinking about trying to dust them with seven,what do you think ???
Burpee lists SS100 as being 70 days to DTM, and DTMs are counted from the time of transplant, so I think even I could get cherry tomatoes if I started them on July 20th! (As long as I got them into their final homes at about 4 weeks, and we didn't get an early frost.)
Betsy
Hi Donna,
You can get variations in the amount of red in a bicolor, it seems to depend on the amount of sunlight and lattitude, just like the "blackness" of the "so-called-blacks." Some of the ICCs will be almost amber like Sungold, and others will be nearly red. On some the bi-color will be obvious and on others it is faint.
Do a Google Image search, and you can see what I mean. I'd post the link, but lately GW won't let me link to an image search. :-(
Are these your first fruits that are more grape shaped? Sometimes the first fruits of any tomatoes are not shaped like they are later in the season, although with cherries I find that they are usually pretty uniform unless we had funky weather about the time they were blooming and setting fruit.
As for posting pictures from PB, use the html link, that's what I did for the image below. (You may want to try it in the test forum.)
Betsy
This post was edited by bets on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 15:47
You'll get far more helpful info over on the Growing Under Lights forum here since very few tomato growers practice this form of growing. Perhaps even the Hydroponics forum could be of more help.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Under Lights forum
Here's what I picked today (Aug 16).
Thanks, qaguy!
Also, wow!!!!