16,949 Garden Web Discussions | Growing Tomatoes
Suggest go to this section of the forum http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/tompests/
was set up for that type of ?
ml
I use fertile soil, drip irrigation, and a mulch to cover the ground to try and hold down the viruses. So far I am getting some problems on the lower leaves of some plants but am doing much better, here in northern CT, than I have before I started doing this. I use cardboard boxes for mulch - they are cheap (free from the dump) and easy to lay down.
We had our very first voles ever this year -and- that looks just like the damage they did for us. The only reason we know for sure it was voles is because we saw them running across our driveway one night when we came in late. They took up residence in our raised bed. We gave them an eviction notice with some PermaTill (tiny little sharp rocks). At season end we will mix a large amount of PermaTill into all of our raised beds.
Cheers,
DL
I think , your other (better ?) option is to pick the maters at color break and ripen them inside.
On the suspect front, I can name THE RATS. That is what I have first hand experience with them. Sure other criters are capable of committing the crime as well. (Grin)
"Aphids live on the leaves rather than under them. I have never seen them to infest tomatoes."
Most aphids' entire life cycle is lived out on the underside of leaves.
They most certainly do infest tomato plants.
Hard to tell from your out of focus pic, but I'm guessing aphids.
Adult whiteflies would have flown off as soon as you turned those leaves over.
There are many discussions here on GW dealing with aphid problems. Just do some searching and you'll find loads of info.
This post was edited by robeb on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 1:27
Thanks everyone.I have read about aphid's and haven't found any that are white and all are decribed as being bigger than what I got. They do fly when you get near them and they are mostly under the leaves. I guess I'll take some to a garden supply and see if they can help. I"m thinking about trying to dust them with seven,what do you think ???
Burpee lists SS100 as being 70 days to DTM, and DTMs are counted from the time of transplant, so I think even I could get cherry tomatoes if I started them on July 20th! (As long as I got them into their final homes at about 4 weeks, and we didn't get an early frost.)
Betsy
Hi Donna,
You can get variations in the amount of red in a bicolor, it seems to depend on the amount of sunlight and lattitude, just like the "blackness" of the "so-called-blacks." Some of the ICCs will be almost amber like Sungold, and others will be nearly red. On some the bi-color will be obvious and on others it is faint.
Do a Google Image search, and you can see what I mean. I'd post the link, but lately GW won't let me link to an image search. :-(
Are these your first fruits that are more grape shaped? Sometimes the first fruits of any tomatoes are not shaped like they are later in the season, although with cherries I find that they are usually pretty uniform unless we had funky weather about the time they were blooming and setting fruit.
As for posting pictures from PB, use the html link, that's what I did for the image below. (You may want to try it in the test forum.)
Betsy
This post was edited by bets on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 15:47
You'll get far more helpful info over on the Growing Under Lights forum here since very few tomato growers practice this form of growing. Perhaps even the Hydroponics forum could be of more help.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Under Lights forum
They're Tami G Hybrid.
Some are starting to turn and it's not as obvious on them, so I probably could pick them now. The worst ones are super green and still too small to pick and counter ripen. Hopefully you're right, Linda and time will be gracious to them.
I am not a taste expert but SWEETNESS,( beside being a relative and somewhat subjective matter ) is msotly attributed to small fruited and yellow tomatoes. OR that is what I have heard.
ALSO, sweetness is due to ripeness ant that can happen more with hot and dry conditions than the opposite. I think, somehow sunshine make a remarkable contribution to sweetness. And, of course, genetic characteristic is another factor, perhaps that OP is looking for.
those look great. Deep fryer sure helps!
To those who are willing to experiment, there is a great Latvian recipe for pickled tomatoes + onions in a pickle juice jello. Essentially your marinade is made to jelly up in the jar if you keep it in the fridge. It is quite tangy as Latvians are quite vinegar-crazy, but who knows, you may enjoy it. Since a Latvian recipe can be quite difficult to find in English, look for a Russian one, there should be plenty online in English.
Could you be more specific in your question please, narrow it's focus to specific points?
It would take hours and pages of information to even try to answer your question as posed. It is simply far too broad.
A simple answer is that you cannot grow tomatoes without N-P-K as well as various minerals and micro-nutrients. The effect of supplying them would all depend on the amounts used, the form they were administered in and the time of application, as well as the method of application.
Na (sodium) has a minimal role.
Dave
Baxter's is a regular leaf not a rugose leaf plant. But even if this was a regular leaf plant there still wouldn't be anyway to put a name to it.
We get lots of requests here every year to ID tomato plants and the answer is always the same - it isn't possible to do. You can pull up all the 'id the tomato plant' posts here to confirm what I am saying,
People simply do not understand that there are thousands and thousands of tomato varieties out there and hundreds of each type, size, shape, and fruit color that look exactly like each other.
Even DNA testing of the plant could not confirm the variety name since so many have the same parental line contributors. So don't worry about it.
Dave
At the very first look at the picture, I thought it looks lik my SWEET_N_NEAT dwarfs. They are less than a foot tall, and span on the ground about one foot. A long shot of the plant can be helpful to better narrow down its variety.
here is a picture of mine